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H22 Manual Tensioner Conversion How Too

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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 11:24 PM
  #1  
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Default H22 Manual Tensioner Conversion How Too

MadCityLude explains the process below. Thanks for the help.


Modified by My292Ludes at 8:35 PM 8/23/2006
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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 12:45 AM
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you ground down the pulley? seems like a bad idea to me
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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 04:32 AM
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Default Re: (tylerwal)

shaving down the pulley very bad now its out of balance and is going to f*ck sh*t up its like tires its going cause a bad vibaration.
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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 07:04 AM
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MadCityLude
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Default Re: (subydoored)

I think he is talking about the bracket part of they pulley, there would be no reason to shave the pulley itself. I did something similar when I did my conversion also.


Modified by MadCityLude at 10:38 PM 8/23/2006
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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 03:19 PM
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Default Re: H22 Manual Tensioner Conversion How Too (My292Ludes)

I don't think that bracket goes where you have the blue dots. Is that what you are trying to say? I don't think there is any problem with leaving it off btw...
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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 03:28 PM
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Default Re: H22 Manual Tensioner Conversion How Too (flyrod)

This picture is in the H-T FAQ thread you mention. You are talking about the part with three holes, right?

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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 06:43 PM
  #7  
MadCityLude
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Default Re: H22 Manual Tensioner Conversion How Too (flyrod)

First off here is a link to the detailed how to with parts list and all. Use my writeup below as a modification.
http://candk.collectiveracing....c=9.0

And this is the Mod. This will allow use of the tripod and bracket on the manual tensioner that was otherwise omited.
Here we go. Now I know alot of people are going to say that the tripod piece is not necessary and whatever, but IMO it takes alot of stress off of the bolt that the tensioner rides on, and it gives me that added little bit of security.

This First Pic shows the culprit bolt. I have circled it in yellow for you. When you put on the manual tensioner pulley you will see that it is only allowed to loosen the belt until the pulley hits the bolt. If you try and put the belt on like this it will be too tight.



The next 2 pics are going to show you the area of the bracket that needs to be shaved down to allow full movement of the tensioner. I used a dremel and it only took about 5 min. I found removing about .06 - .09 was sufficient. Again the area I shaved is highlighted in yellow. Again you don't shave the pulley itself only the bracket.






Modified by MadCityLude at 6:31 PM 9/1/2006
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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 08:58 PM
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Default Re: H22 Manual Tensioner Conversion How Too (MadCityLude)

tripod peice is not neccesary...
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 11:11 AM
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MadCityLude
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Default Re: H22 Manual Tensioner Conversion How Too (cb7-R)

^^ then why did honda put it there? I think maybe it works without it, but It is there for a reason.

I really think people have just been omitting it for the last couple years because they found the belt to be to tight with it. This is an easy process that you can do if you would like.

I am not saying you have to use it, but now if anyone else wants to they know how it can be done.
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 11:14 AM
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My292Ludes's Avatar
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Default Re: H22 Manual Tensioner Conversion How Too (MadCityLude)

I agree with MadCity on this. And it was easy to do, I just am no good at explaining it. Thanks MadCity!
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 12:09 PM
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MadCityLude
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Default Re: H22 Manual Tensioner Conversion How Too (My292Ludes)

^^ No Problem!

Now I am not saying everyone should go out and do this to there tensioners right now, but during your next timing belt, water pump change why not? Or if you are doing the coversion, Why Not?

Also here is the link for info on the honda parts kit. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=545446

Parts list:

13404-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., BALANCER BELT
13415-PT0-000 - BRACKET, BALANCER BELT ADJUSTER
14510-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., TIMING BELT
14516-PT2-000 - SPRING COMP., TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER
90014-P14-A00 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE
90015-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER SPRING
90016-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM)

And a link to a parts list at Majestic Honda, I order all my parts from them (way cheaper than my local honda dealership) http://www.hondaautomotivepart...82%29
And here is a link to Sl Honda Parts again cheaper than local dealership http://www.slhondaparts.com/

If your eliminating the balance belt you may want to consider this instead of all those washers, I just measured out how much space there was and made a spacer
Desc: Aluminum Unthreaded Round Spacer
Size: 1" Od, 1" Length, 1/2" Screw Size
Fits perfect, but could have went with 1 1/4'' OD



Modified by MadCityLude at 3:41 PM 8/24/2006
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 10:51 PM
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Default Re: H22 Manual Tensioner Conversion How Too (MadCityLude)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MadCityLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^ then why did honda put it there? I think maybe it works without it, but It is there for a reason.

I really think people have just been omitting it for the last couple years because they found the belt to be to tight with it. This is an easy process that you can do if you would like.

I am not saying you have to use it, but now if anyone else wants to they know how it can be done.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's only there to hold the tension while installing the t-belt. other wise there's no use for it.
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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 05:44 PM
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Default Re: H22 Manual Tensioner Conversion How Too (cb7-R)

the first pic oh the thread is my setup. I did not have to shave the braket or any bolts, and i haven't had an issue
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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 09:43 PM
  #14  
MadCityLude
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Default Re: H22 Manual Tensioner Conversion How Too (b16hybridsol)

I am not sure why, but myself and many others have had this problem. The reason I know this is cause when I ran into the issue and started searching I found a ton posts on the topic. But none of them had a real solution, so I developed my own.
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