I got a really good deal on an H23a1 to swap into my 95' Honda Accord EX. The only problem with it was that it didnt come with a power steering bracket. I tried to get one, but everyone wanted about $50 for it. So I decided to remove my power steering and involved components all together, since I had been reading good things about how people loved not having it. Here's a write-up on what I did ...

Tools Needed:



- Set of Flare Wrenches (MUST contain 14mm, 15mm, 16mm, and 17mm)
- 3/8 Socket Wrench with extension (doesn't have to be as long as the one in the pic, but it made things easier)
- 10mm Socket
- Flat Head Screw Driver

Extra Tools I Needed: (also shown in the pic above)
- 7/8" Wrench (I'll explain why later)
- Hand Held Torch + Lighter
- Funnel (to fit over the line used to loop the power steering)
- Power Steering Fluid (might not need this, but I used it just in case)

Parts Needed:



- 1/4" x 5/16" NPT Pipe Fitting (Part# EDE 821650) - $3.53
- 3/8" x 5/16" NPT Pipe Fitting (Part# EDE 821550) - $3.99
- 1ft of 5/16" Transmission Oil Cooler Line (I was given more since it was the end of the stuff they had) (Part# RBR 27060) - $3.47
- (2) 5/16" Fuel Injection Clamps (Part# CHC 52F15) - $.98 x 2 = $1.96
*$13 worth of parts (before tax) and all parts were bought from a local carquest*

How To Remove Power Steering ... Closed Loop Style:
- Remove power steering belt, pump, and bracket (I can't go into dept on this, since mine was already removed. It's not hard, I'll let ya know that much.)


^^^^ now this is what you're left with


^^^^ here is where you are going to end up looping the lines

- Use the 14mm Flare Wrench on the close fitting and turn it (pull up on it and rotate it toward the firewall to loosen it) until it comes out.
SIDENOTE: I had to use the torch to heat up the fitting, since it was stuck to the line and I didnt want to bust the line. Be CAREFUL when using a flame down there. I then used the 7/8" and wedged the other end of the flare wrench in it to break it free. Basically made my own breaker wrench so to speak.
- Use the 3/8" Socket Wrench (extension not needed) + 10mm Socket to remove the bolts that hold the line in place. After they are removed, the line should be free.
- Use the 17mm Flare Wrench on the far fitting and turn it (pull up on it and rotate it toward the firewall to loosen it) until it comes out.
- Use the 3/8" Socket Wrench (extension not needed) + 10mm Socket to remove the bolts that hold the line in place. One is located right by the fitting (you'll see what I am talking about) and hard to get at, so I accessed it from under the car. Remove the clamp at the other end of the line and disconnect it. The line should now be free.
- Remove power steering reservoir and the other peice located on the front of the car (2 x 10mm bolts hold it on and it will help to use an extension to remove the bolts)


^^^^ everything that was removed (minus power steering pump, bracket, and belt)

[img]https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y125/95AccordVtec/DSC02663.jpg[img]
^^^^ after fittings/lines removed

- Install the 1/4" fitting in the close threads and the 3/8" fitting in the far threads and hand tighten both.
- Use 15mm Flare Wrench on the close fitting until it is tight (pull it toward the front of the car and toward the ground)
- Use 16mm Flare Wrench on the far fitting until it is tight (pull it toward the front of the car and toward the ground)


^^^^ where you should be at with both fitting installed

- Put the funnel on one end of the transmission line, then put the other end on one of the fittings. Make sure to put one of the fuel injection clamps on the line before you put it on the fitting. Pour a little bit of power steering fluid down the funnel and make sure that some pours out the other fitting. Turn the wheel a little bit from side to side also if you like.


^^^^ here's what I rigged up

- Pull the funnel off and put the other fuel injection clamp on.
- Quickly put the other end of the transmission line on the other fitting (since fluid is probably leaking out. It did with me).
- Move both clamps to where they belong and tighten them down.


^^^^ what it should look like when it is finished


^^^^ here's what it looks like in the engine bay with everything removed

 

so how impossible is this going to be with the motor in the car?

 

I honestly couldn't tell you. Since I did it with the motor out of the car obviously. I'm sure that it isn't going to be easy though with the motor in there ...

 

yeah def from looking under there quite often it looks very hard toget in there, but what about using a breather? the integra typer section has a write up about it but they use a brether with it . what do you think about that and turning ease?

 

I havent gotten around to using a breather yet. I just wanted a closed loop system for now to keep fluid in there. Over the winter (few months) when I pull my motor again, I'll look into the breather if I need to. I'll tell you more about how it feels when I get my car on the road soon ...

 

yeah keep me posted since i will be doing the h22 swap at some point in the near future so this is something that i am extremely interested in. let me know how it feels how you have it now! thanks