Ok I was bored at work last night and we have a backyard full of 2", 2 1/2" and 3" pipes that are thick food grade stainless steel.
So I picked up some straight pipes and 2 90's. Have to wait til tuesday for day off to try and get them welded up.
They are 3" inside diameter piping although I didn't get pics of that. Plus my digital caliper was blinking so I had to take like 6 pictures to get the rythm of my camera snap and the blink down. lol
The middle pipe is 3'3" long one is shorter and one is longer. If I need to I can add pipes near axles or piece together to fit. I plan on thermowrapping since stainless doesn't rust and sticking as close to the hatch as possible since 3" is going to be tight.
The diameter of the walls is 1.85mm thick or about 0.073 inches.




The piece next to the 2 90's is a 3" to 4" piece that connected to a 4" valve it was laying around so not sure if that is going to be my tip or not.
Also this is going to be no cat or muffler setup.

I really wanted to go 3" side exit and still might but this will definately not have any "BACKPRESSURE" in it.
My turbo will thank me.

Will post more pics when I get it welded. I have to remove old exhaust for pipe routing.

 

Ok I can foresee some questions and I was thinking.

First off. Yeah I spelled steel wrong in the title. Sorry.

Otherwise. I plan on welding on a fitting to the end to mount up with an equal diameter downpipe so that I will have removability with this. Also will weld hangers according to oem exhaust. Not too worried about catless or no muffler however not excited about loudness. No emmissions here so yeah this will be on a daily driver although I have other cars to drive.

Not sure what $ this is worth. Would say 10.00 a foot or so maybe alot more?
Rustless = Priceless

Any questions, comments, suggestions are encouraged. Don't be gay and please think about what you are typing before you hit post.

 

Good luck on the setup. NSF cerified steel is great. Tanabe actually uses it too. My chef where I work thought it was hillarious when I told him my exhaust was made of the same grade steel as our prep tables

 

i hope you're boosted, otherwise 3" will hurt performance and possibly burn valves. buy a nice stainless 3" ID muffler to quiet it down a little.

 

hmmm. good to know. i always thought tanabe used nice quality tubing. you know where this stuff can be had?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. Don't be gay and please think about what you are typing before you hit post.</TD></TR></TABLE>

man, being gay is not a choice. just ask half the people on h-tech. ---B

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TH22EK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmm. good to know. i always thought tanabe used nice quality tubing. you know where this stuff can be had?

man, being gay is not a choice. just ask half the people on h-tech. ---B
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TH22EK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmm. good to know. i always thought tanabe used nice quality tubing. you know where this stuff can be had?

man, being gay is not a choice. just ask half the people on h-tech. ---B
</TD></TR></TABLE>

nice, way to double-post

 

lol. my gayness forced a DP.

 

We just did some remodeling at work and have some 2 1/2 and 3 inch piping. the 90's I got lucky on.

I really wasn't planning on a muffler but I really don't want a loud exhaust. And since so far this is free and will be welded free, I also don't want to buy a 150.00 muffler.

This will be FI setup so no hurt performance here and I will probably keep the stocker system for backup in case the turbo needs to come for rebuild or whatever.

TH22EK9
How much you willing to spend? and what kind of measurements do you need?
feet straight?
Bends?
Diameter?
I could look around.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sleepy_Red_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hope you're boosted, otherwise 3" will hurt performance and possibly burn valves. buy a nice stainless 3" ID muffler to quiet it down a little.</TD></TR></TABLE>

umm how the crap will u burn valves cuz of a large exhaust lol

 

Buring valves because of a 3 inch exhaust is bad info. STfu

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

umm how the crap will u burn valves cuz of a large exhaust lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because 90% of this forum has never worked on a car. lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Capn’jazz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Buring valves because of a 3 inch exhaust is bad info. STfu</TD></TR></TABLE>

X2 That might be true if it was carburated,, but FI GTFO

 

The main reason you burnt valves back in the day was because they used leaded gas (burned very hot), had a single huge valve, and they couldn't tune it nearly as well as you could today. Very large mass of very hot air moving at very high velocities past an exhaust valve WILL burn it up. BTW if you look a many older V8's, you will notice their exhaust valve have an odd looking cap over the valve spring. That device helps rotate the valve when its moved, which prevents hotspots on the valves.

The one issue still left today is that on a honda, the ecu typically won't 'learn' to add fuel for you at WOT. Even if it does, the best it can do is ~14:1. At WOT 14:1/leaner is NOT good - it can lead ot very hot egt's, which in turn will burn valves. You people need to understand engine theory before you tell someone to gtfo.

As he stated, this will be forced-induction, ie SC or turbo. I can vouch that a 3" cat-back NA setup is terrrible for power - I made my 3" exhuast so I could swap to/from the stock cat/header to the turbo (note that my stock exhaust rusted to hell, all tossed out).

 

looking for 2.5". i will go see exactly how much i need.

i see that you are popping this on a hatch. i will see how your setup goes. i want to tig my exhaust and wondering if the flanges have to be food grade as well. wondering if the filler is special too?

 

actually 3 inch will make more power no matter what your going to do...how will running straight header make more power but adding larger piping be worse....the closer you can get to open atmosphere...the better

 

bbbbbbbbackpressure

read about it and you will hopefully understand why too big or too little sized exhaust results in less power.

google is the dictionary for dummies

 

Having debates. Ended up only getting a T3 turbo for a better low end boost. Want this to be streetable with some drag time.

Anybody interested in this? Will be posting to the classifieds shortly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tempsohc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually 3 inch will make more power no matter what your going to do...how will running straight header make more power but adding larger piping be worse....the closer you can get to open atmosphere...the better</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wrong. The reason a 3 inch exhaust wont make more power on a 1.6L N/A honda motor is because the exhaust gas will cool down faster because it takes longer to flow down the bigger pipe and this cooler, denser air will be harder for the engine to push out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TH22EK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bbbbbbbbackpressure

read about it and you will hopefully understand why too big or too little sized exhaust results in less power.

google is the dictionary for dummies</TD></TR></TABLE>
Has nothing to do with backpressure. exhaust backpressure is an old myth created by old v8 hotrodders. If you take a 2 1/4 exhaust on a tuned honda motor and then put a restricting muffler on there your gonna lose power vs straight thru. so there is no way that backpressure has anything to do with it, period!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TH22EK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bbbbbbbbackpressure

read about it and you will hopefully understand why too big or too little sized exhaust results in less power.

google is the dictionary for dummies</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe you're the one who needs to do some research. Backpressure is a myth. It doesn't make power anywhere, it simply shifts peak torque and lessens the amount of peak torque.

And don't ask me why stock cars don't come with bigger exhausts, because you should be able to figure it out from what I just said.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeffBro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Wrong. The reason a 3 inch exhaust wont make more power on a 1.6L N/A honda motor is because the exhaust gas will cool down faster because it takes longer to flow down the bigger pipe and this cooler, denser air will be harder for the engine to push out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Honda tuning found that they made more power on a n/a y8 with a 3" cat back than with a 2 1/2...

 

So would anyone be interested in this. Trying to avoid technicals. All it needs is like two 45 degree bends to go over the rear axle.

Easier to ship like this before it gets welded. Maybe just throw a testing waters out there.

Either way. Thanks for the thread jack guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe you're the one who needs to do some research. Backpressure is a myth. It doesn't make power anywhere, it simply shifts peak torque and lessens the amount of peak torque.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm? where did i say back pressure makes power? maybe you should learn to read bbbbetter.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeffBro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has nothing to do with backpressure. exhaust backpressure is an old myth created by old v8 hotrodders. If you take a 2 1/4 exhaust on a tuned honda motor and then put a restricting muffler on there your gonna lose power vs straight thru. so there is no way that backpressure has anything to do with it, period!</TD></TR></TABLE>

what? you just contradicted yourself twice bro. also, when i say 2 1/2" exhaust, that includes a 2 1/2" muffler. if you put a 2" muffler on 2 1/2" piping, you are bottlenecking which creates back pressure, thus robbing power. even with a 2 1/2" muffler, if it is poorly designed, it will still be restrictive. back pressure is a myth? ya'all are dumb.

 

I'm just curious on how much the finished product will weigh.

 

Heavier than normal but I would say roughly around 12-15 pounds maybe a tad more because I was going to heat wrap it and tuck it a little closer to the body to give a tad more clearance.

I can try and weigh it and give a better estimate although I what is pictured for the 3 straight pipes won't all be used.
__________________________________________________ ___________________
My scale doesn't work but I change previous amounts. I would guestimate the straight pieces at around 6 pounds each and the 90's at about 2-3 lbs.

So you would be looking at around 20-25 pounds roughly installed weight maybe a tad more. But this will never rust, the welds might rust or if you clean with anything other than a New stainless steel brush.


Modified by sauceja at 9:58 AM 8/29/2006