bad compression in #4 cylinder.
i did a compression test the other day and it came up like this.
this is on a B16A motor by the way.
1- 210
2- 210
3- 210
4- 150
it doesn't smoke while i'm driving or idling, so i don't think it's a bad ring, i'm hoping it just needs a valve adjustment or something, but if it comes down to it being the piston ring, what should i do?
here are my options thus far:
1.) get new OEM or CTR pistons and rebuild the bottom end (someone told me i have to get it bored over, i know i have to get it rehoned, but i'm looking for the cheapest way out here)
2.) Get a SOHC swap for now and have the B series as a motor to be built when i have the extra money.
this is on a B16A motor by the way.
1- 210
2- 210
3- 210
4- 150
it doesn't smoke while i'm driving or idling, so i don't think it's a bad ring, i'm hoping it just needs a valve adjustment or something, but if it comes down to it being the piston ring, what should i do?
here are my options thus far:
1.) get new OEM or CTR pistons and rebuild the bottom end (someone told me i have to get it bored over, i know i have to get it rehoned, but i'm looking for the cheapest way out here)
2.) Get a SOHC swap for now and have the B series as a motor to be built when i have the extra money.
theres no such thing in cheap when building a motor depending on what your goal is....ctr pistons or fully built money is involved....but a single and build the b16 is what i would do....just my thinkng....
a d16 bottom end build is going to cost you damn near the same money. Only with b16 you are starting off with about 30 more whp or so.
Some of us don't buy b16's because of what they are. To me it is just a better starting platform to work with than the d's. Parts prices are very close to each other on more up top and better adjustability with the cam timing.
Good luck with your build either way.
Some of us don't buy b16's because of what they are. To me it is just a better starting platform to work with than the d's. Parts prices are very close to each other on more up top and better adjustability with the cam timing.
Good luck with your build either way.
well i probably won't build the D bottom end, i'm really just looking for a good running swap.
what i meant was that the price of swapping in a D series beats the cost of rebuilding the B series.
what i meant was that the price of swapping in a D series beats the cost of rebuilding the B series.
For 800.00 you could get new bearings, possibly a good rod/piston combo and have a solid *** bottom end that is ready to rock. For about 1100.00 you could have new oil pump, water pump, timing belt and built bottom end.
And still rock about 40 whp over the d.
But to each his own.
And still rock about 40 whp over the d.
But to each his own.
before you start thinking about all that, why not do a leakdown and see what's wrong first??? It could just be a misadjusted/tweaked/burnt valve.
new valve from honda $20... machine shop skills to work head a little $150... headgasket kit $75 a couple hours of your time and you could have it back up and running like new...
new valve from honda $20... machine shop skills to work head a little $150... headgasket kit $75 a couple hours of your time and you could have it back up and running like new...
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