Hey just installing my peakboost kit, looks awesome and everything fits great, just having some trouble putting the OEM Honda nuts on the top bolts of the exhaust manifold...they seem to be binding on the runner/welds? Any suggestions?

 

Use allen head bolts.

 

How do I go about removing the oem studs? I tried searching manifold allen and allen head bolts and had no luck. I was also thinking rather than go that route whether I can pick up some small 12mm nuts from home depot or buy a few and grind the diameter of them smaller?


Modified by o'malley_808 at 1:01 PM 8/20/2006

 

Just put those two nuts on first.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use allen head bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'll never be able to tighten an allen


&gt;&gt;&gt;&lt;&lt;&lt;

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F20Cteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You'll never be able to tighten an allen


&gt;&gt;&gt;&lt;&lt;&lt;</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes you will.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes you will.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Good response, but incorrect. The #1 and #4 runner would impeed an allen from being tighten correctly.

&gt;&gt;&gt;&lt;&lt;&lt;

 

I would rather use a stud and nut than a bolt....running a bolt in and out and rethightening alot will strip out the aluminum.....run a stud when ever possible. check out http://www.mcmaster.com/ look for some small head nuts...i dont know what your thread size is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F20Cteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Good response, but incorrect. The #1 and #4 runner would impeed an allen from being tighten correctly.

&gt;&gt;&gt;&lt;&lt;&lt;</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's why you install those first and get them semi-snug while holding the manifold away from the head. When you tighten the allen heads it will draw the manifold closer to the head. Then Install the other bolts and torque them in the criss cross pattern. There is a way around these things. I have worked on several peak-boost kits and there were no problems with bolt fitment.



That is the last peak-boost kit I worked on that did not have any problems with bolt fitment. But from this view I can see your point if the manifolds are the same... it may be a little difficult to snug an allen head bolt. It may be possible though... If not just grind the outer rim of the bolts off.


https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1710165

That thread has some good info as well.

 

I grinded 3 of my bolts to fit my ramhorn manifold, you need to grind the top of the nut of, but stop just before the treads. You can remove almost half of the the nut, and still maintain it's full function and use. I've been there and done that, it's a total pain in the ***, but this way you don't have to buy anything(that's if you have a wheel grinder).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">




https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1710165

That thread has some good info as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Funny to see such a serious kit and a missing link on the same motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93supercoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Funny to see such a serious kit and a missing link on the same motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>


+ a 3 bar on the firewall. what is this some kinda sick joke?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93supercoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Funny to see such a serious kit and a missing link on the same motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That kit is running a 3 bar plus hondata s200b. I didn't even notice that the missing link was there, lol.

Anyways... bone stock b16

 

How come the intake manifold sits so low? in relation to the valve cover. My b16a3 is wayy higher than tht. I'll try to snap a pic of my problem with bolts on runner 1 & 4.

 

Heres the prob im having....

Bay shot



Modified by o'malley_808 at 3:18 PM 8/20/2006

 

My manifold has the same problem, its no big deal... Use your head, loosen all the other bolts and rock the manifold while turning that nut.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by triple_s1x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My manifold has the same problem, its no big deal... Use your head, loosen all the other bolts and rock the manifold while turning that nut.</TD></TR></TABLE>
duh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by triple_s1x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My manifold has the same problem, its no big deal... Use your head, loosen all the other bolts and rock the manifold while turning that nut.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah thats a brilliant idea, why dont i go and wiggle my manifold when there is no more clearance, tighten the nut and apply so much side force that i snap the stud in the head, sounds like a great idea to me, why didnt i think of that earlier? Lets be realistic here, if i had enough clearance it would have wiggled its way in by now but its binding to the point that i have to apply more than adequate torque to turn the nut thats why I started this post. Did anyone file the weld down a little bit or find a smaller nut to use? im gunna try something in a sec so ill let you know

 

pull the manifold away from the head...

 

try grinding the lip on the nut down.

 

Use some common sense instead of looking on the internet for help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboJesse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pull the manifold away from the head...</TD></TR></TABLE>
he just solved your problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B--RYAN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he just solved your problem </TD></TR></TABLE>

that wont solve it the outer lip is hitting the weld, he needs to grind down the bolt lip for it to fit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by o’malley_808 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah thats a brilliant idea, why dont i go and wiggle my manifold when there is no more clearance, tighten the nut and apply so much side force that i snap the stud in the head, sounds like a great idea to me, why didnt i think of that earlier? Lets be realistic here, if i had enough clearance it would have wiggled its way in by now but its binding to the point that i have to apply more than adequate torque to turn the nut thats why I started this post. Did anyone file the weld down a little bit or find a smaller nut to use? im gunna try something in a sec so ill let you know</TD></TR></TABLE>


Then get a different NUT genius... maybe one with no lip

 

I can make a “special” nut for that for around $10

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abnaasefmb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can make a “special” nut for that for around $10</TD></TR></TABLE>

i say *** it and just jb weld the manifold to the head.