i just finish racing my car at FAMSO ca... ran *****.. 16.5 my setup is

jdm d15b vtec
converted everything to OBD1 .. i have no check engine light
JG CAMSHAFT 85vt35 with AEM TRU TIME CAM GEAR +2 ADVance
DC 4-1 headers
COLD AIR intake

when i install my camshaft i had to redo the valve spring etc.. i set it back to stock..

do you think that is why i ran a shitty time???

any info on the camshaft spec would be great@!@!!!


Modified by dapump2003 at 1:58 PM 8/20/2006

 

Have you tuned the motor with the new cam in it? Are you running stock compression?

You're going to need a new exhaust to open your motor up.

 

i belive this camshaft doesn't need to be tuned because you can use your stock spring and retainer .. i ran straight headers.. suprising i heard the vtec but ran no good.. i need to know the spec to adjust the valve spring!! any info would be great

 

Valve Lash:
in. .007-.009"
ex. .009-.011"

Um, tuning doesn't have a damned thing to do with the springs and retainers. It's about adjusting the air/fuel ratio, cam timing, and ignition timing to find the optimum power range. For instance, who told you to set your cam to two degrees advanced? You need to get your motor tuned.

Speaking of not needing aftermarket springs and retainers, that would more likely than not make it a "stage one" cam shaft. Which is just slightly larger than stock. For that fact, slightly larger than a stock Z6 and the D15B has a more aggressive cam than the Z6. Many say it's inbetween the Comp Cams/Zex 59100 and 59300, being closer to the 59300. My guess is that you threw a cam in without knowing what it is and you actually lost power.

 

Valve Lash:
in. .007-.009"
ex. .009-.011"
Um, tuning doesn't have a damned thing to do with the springs and retainers. It's about adjusting the air/fuel ratio, cam timing, and ignition timing to find the optimum power range. For instance, who told you to set your cam to two degrees advanced? You need to get your motor tuned.

Speaking of not needing aftermarket springs and retainers, that would more likely than not make it a "stage one" cam shaft. Which is just slightly larger than stock. For that fact, slightly larger than a stock Z6 and the D15B has a more aggressive cam than the Z6. Many say it's inbetween the Comp Cams/Zex 59100 and 59300, being closer to the 59300. My guess is that you threw a cam in without knowing what it is and you actually lost power.

is that the stock valve setting?? aren't i suppose to use the specs for the JG camshsaft??

i knoe for sure the camshaft is made by JG ENGINERRING its the 85vt35 model.. i did compare both camshaft the JDM D15b vtec and the JG CAMSHAFT.. the only difference was the VTEC LOBE on the JG was bigger the d15b..

 

Yes, it's the stock setting and it's also what you need. Or you can call JG tomorrow and ask them. I have the 59300 cam and it calls for stock specs.

You need to tune your motor.

 

how does the 59300 cam work for you? on the valve lash you just set yours to stock specs? don't you lose power doing that??

 

I'm really liking it. I have my lash set to 8 and 10, respectively. If anything, most people tend to set them a little on the tight side because of how loud the cam is. I kinda like it though, so it doesn't bother me. And a looser setting will allow the valves to open and shut with more force but at the cost of the valves and the valve seats. You might free up a few ponies but you'll be damaging your motor at the same time. You don't really have to worry about that until you start going 3-5 past stock. I think you're thinking about cam timing.

 

i just contact JGEnginering
find out the specs for the camshaft for the valve is suppose to be

JG SOHC VTEC 85vt35
in. .007
ex. 009

my setting is

in. .009
ex. .009

maybe that is where i went wrong..

 

That's at the end of the stock spec's. If anything, it'll make the intake valves snap open and shut with more force which will free up a little power and help to dissipate a little heat. But go ahead and reset the valve lash since it's not that hard to do.

 

thanks for the advice..

do you think if i set it to JG spec, would i get the performance i am looking for??

 

thanks for the help on everything.. if i change my valve lash to JG SPEC would it help my perfomance?

 

No problem, man.

I'd be surprised if it gave you a jump in power.

Aside from that, what car do you have and how good are you at driving it? That'll effect your 1/4 mile time quite a bit.

 

i have a 88crx si with a jdm d15b vtec from the 92-95 civic.. i converted everything to OBD1 and using a chip P28 ecu.. i been playing with cars for a while now but i don't touch internal.. only camshaft because its easy.. before the D15vtec i had a mini me i built d16y7 with y8 head and ran everything oBD1 before that i had a supercharge D16a6 ran obd-0 and before that i ran a LS nitrous before that i ran stock.. i been racing at the track for a while.. i always get a good reaction time...
hopefully the new valve adjustment will unleash the power i am looking for..

 

The valve adjustment won't free up but maybe a handful of ponies. My old n/a A6 in my '91 Si hatch was just a little quicker than that and it barely had anything done to it. There's something wrong somewhere. Maybe your timing belt is off by a tooth or something. Your motor is defintely not running right with that time.

 

got back from the shop and readjusted my valve to JG spec.. car runs better but something is still wrong.. i check the timing on my motor and its off by 25degree.. how am i suppose to set it back to normal..?

 

Off by 25 degrees or at 25 degrees? Off by 25 would suggest that your timing belt is on wrong. Did you line up the cam and crank pulley before putting the belt on? Every tooth the belt is off will be +/- 9 degrees. So you're probably off by three teeth.

 

its btdc 25 degree...can't i just play around with the cam gear to adjust it right or do i have to redo the timing belt???

 

Ah, that's not anywhere near as bad. You're off by one tooth. It's best to take the timing belt off the cam gear and get that lined up. What I do when I take a timing belt off is make three marks, one on the cam gear and one on the timing belt on each side of the one on the cam gear. That gives you a point of reference for putting it back on.

After you do that, you'll find the power you're missing.

 

i was gonna go redo my timing but my lug nutz snap on me and the whole car almost rolled on the rotors.. i am very lucky.. but my whole spindale snap.. don't how that happen.. so i gotta change my lug nutz and put ARP wheel stud.. that suckss..

 

Damn dude. Good reason to get some aftermarket wheel studs?

 

just finish putting my arp wheel stud on and fixxing my timing.. any differnece.. jus a little nothing to major.. maybe its just a singo cam..