Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

Underdrive Pulley Installation

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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 08:23 AM
  #1  
AccordSleeperZzZ's Avatar
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Default Underdrive Pulley Installation

hey there, fellas. just installed some AEM pwr. steering and alternator pulleys. just figured i'd open up a post to help anyone out who's attempting the same project. i apologize that the pictures are taken after the completion fo the project, but i'll do my best to make the pictures match up with the instructions.

K? let's begin.

first, let us start by getting out the tools we'll need.you're going to need - 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, and 19mm socket, and socket wrench. a 22mm and 10mm box wrench, flathead screwdriver, jack, 'rust-buster spray', and a light.

1. disconnect battery from car, and take out wires going to alternator. (safety first)

2. you're going to start with the power steering pulley. don't disconnect any lines from the pwr. steering pump, it'll be just fine sitting there. it does make it much easier to slide the pwr. steering fluid container up off its mount(it gives you a bunch more room to work with). ok, take that flathead screwdriver and pry it in place through one of the holes in the stock pulley, and loosen it with your 19mm socket. i believe <U>this pulley had reverse threads</U>, so don't bust a nut trying to gorilla it off. loosen the adjuster bolt at the top of the pwr. steering pump so you can get the belt off. then, you guessed it, take the belt off. now, you can take off the tock pulley.


3. ok, i'll warn you. the alternator is a bitch. all the nuts/bolts are a pain to get to, and at least on mine, the top mount one, was v. difficult to get off. hence, the rust-buster spray, was put in the list of needed materials. ok. loosen and take off the alternator's adjuster bolt w/ your 10mm socket, and loosen and take off the lower alternator mounting bolt and the upper alternator mounting bolt. these were 10mm or 12mm, i think. not hard to figure out, whatever they are. lastly, take off the belt and take out the alternator. some helpful pictures below.





4. once you have your alternator out, you're going to need your 22mm and 10mm box wrenches. you have to hold the alternator shaft in place w/ the 10mm while you loosen the nut w/ the 22mm wrench. you can now change on the new pulley. the tolerences are extremely close and it looks close but the old one did too, so don't worry if it looks like it's gonna be too close. tighten on the new pulley in the same manner in which you removed the old one.

5. put your alternator back into place and v. loosely put the bolts back on. now, you must put the new belt on. this was quite a pain. i had a buddy pulling on the belt as i pushed up on the air conditioner to put a little more slack on the belt. tighten all the bolts securely.

6. put on the new pwr. steering pulley. remember these threads are reversed, so don't flip. tighten it the same way you loosened the old one. now put the new belt on. this wasalso a pain, but you just have to muscle it into place. tighetn all bolts and adjusters.

7. re-connect your pwr. steering fluid bottle, and re-connect alternator wires and your battery. make sure your belts are tight. if you think they're tight enough, tighten them some more, there should be VERY LITTLE GIVE in them.

8. start that baby up! listen for squeaking. if you hear squeaking, you need to tighten up your belt(s) more.

finished product.


that should do it. hope this is helpful to some of you guys.
-Chris
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 08:26 AM
  #2  
Crono139's Avatar
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Default Re: Underdrive Pulley Installation (AccordSleeperZzZ)

Well done. I can definitely use this in the future.

Too bad the crank pulley isn't as easy to swap out as the others.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 08:27 AM
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Default Re: Underdrive Pulley Installation (AccordSleeperZzZ)

Good stuff man, thanks for the write up Clean engine bay too
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 10:00 PM
  #4  
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Default

yes. bought an Unorthodox Racing Crank pulley, but i'd need a whole new set of belts for that, and i'd have to figure out the lengths, and go down to the shop and have them go at it w/ the breaker bar. big pain. oh, and the engine bay - 4 hours w/ a wet rag & a wire brush...ugg.
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