hey every one for some time now i have had a D16Y8 in my hatch and now i'm getting ready to start college so i was thinking about buying another motor to put in my car for the time that i am in college and and build my D16Y8 and turbo charge it. so i was wating to get some ideas from people. I would like to build both the head and bottom end with the beat parts as i can. so let the ideas flow in. thanks to any one that can help...

Isaac-

 

Lol, how much $ u got?

 

whats your budget? heres some decent budget items in FI builds i have seen on d-series.org

check out d-series.org.
tuner toys H beam rods ~225
suzuki vitara pistons ~ 150
acl bearings
johnny race car? intercooler
hf,std manifold with adapter for turbo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gospeedgo1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
suzuki vitara pistons ~ 150</TD></TR></TABLE>

WTF? For real?!

 

Yep, they'll give you around 8.5:1. Personally, I opted for Nippon Racing Pistons.


Modified by 91SiZ6 at 12:21 AM 8/18/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lol, how much $ u got?</TD></TR></TABLE>


well as for the motor half of it i would like to keep it within the $2700. range includeing other motor work such as Port/Polish, valve job, Ect..... but what would be a good Cam, Valves, Valve springs, Retainers? and as for the bottom end what Pistons, Rods, should i have the block re-sleeved? Thanks for any replys.......

Isaac-

 

I have D16Z6 head for sale

check sig...

I dunno if it'll work..... I dont know SOHC's very well

 

Ther is no need for that much power. Just run a z6 with p29 pistons, and a zex cam and be done with it. There is no reason you should need anymore power than that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ther is no need for that much power. Just run a z6 with p29 pistons, and a zex cam and be done with it. There is no reason you should need anymore power than that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

well i want to build a motor, i'm not going half ***. i wanna go all out!

 

their's an article on SOHChonda Forum.

About a built D15 motor; 150 hp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoon Sports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">their's an article on SOHChonda Forum.

About a built D15 motor; 150 hp.</TD></TR></TABLE>


150 HP, Is that it?

 

Yep. I love the D but they have some serious n/a limitations.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90 Si Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">150 HP, Is that it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep. Not too sure if it was 150 hp or 150 to the wheel.

Just to be on the safe side I'll say 150hp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gospeedgo1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">suzuki vitara pistons ~ 150</TD></TR></TABLE>

will they fit a JDM d15b vtec?

 

ok..... so what would any one have to say about going with Skunk2 Stage 1 Camshaft, Valves, Valve Springs.... any inputs on that?

Isaac-

 

I'd go for Comp Cams/Zex or Crower.

Oh yeah, and you can get around 160-170whp out of an n/a D16 while still keeping it streetable. But it costs a lot of money to get there.

 

just buy a greddy kit and be done. iv seen almost 250 to the wheels on those.

its nice to say you make 400whp, but honestly your not going to hit that on a daily basis. stay in the 250-300 range.

get suzuki vitara pistons, get a zex cam and maybe some valve springsand valves. Then get it tuned!!!!!!!!!!!!! thats the biggest thing people half *** on. get it tuned right!

d series can easly be daily drivin on that set up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90 Si Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok..... so what would any one have to say about going with Skunk2 Stage 1 Camshaft, Valves, Valve Springs.... any inputs on that?

Isaac-</TD></TR></TABLE>


yeah i understand what every one is saying, but no one answered my question i asked!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91SiZ6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd go for Comp Cams/Zex or Crower.

Oh yeah, and you can get around 160-170whp out of an n/a D16 while still keeping it streetable. But it costs a lot of money to get there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

streetable and n/a? i'm guessing port n polish, cam, vsprings, valves, high compression, good header, etc? I dont think it would be that streetable though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ther is no need for that much power. Just run a z6 with p29 pistons, and a zex cam and be done with it. There is no reason you should need anymore power than that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

HA! From the guy putting a K20 in his CRX...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoon Sports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yep. Not too sure if it was 150 hp or 150 to the wheel.

Just to be on the safe side I'll say 150hp.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The author of that thread puts down 158whp. It is possible to go higher, but the point was to build a streetable, reliable NA SOHC VTEC with mostly OEM parts. The OP wants to boost.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90 Si Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i understand what every one is saying, but no one answered my question i asked!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Read up on D-series.org if you are unsure. I am running/building on a 12.5:1 SOHC VTEC, and despite having a lot of problems getting it tuned (personal problems, cursed car, not motor problems), I still love it. It is very cheap to build for what you get, especially for you since you already have the Y8 and I assume OBD1.

 

get all zex gear, i mean all of it, dont jsut get one thing and then another brand, might as well stay with all the same since its made for it righ

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HA! From the guy that has a K20 in his CRX...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I fixxed it for you but yeah. I wondered if anyone would catch that. I do plan on building a p29 pistoned, zex cammed z6 for my beater in the immediate future. It's about timming belt time so I figure I'l just do a rebuild. I rode in a friend's setup like this awhile back and it was pretty impressive. I was contemplatinmg boosting the old girl, but for everyday usuage, in a car that I rely on to make money. Simple is the key, and 160hp, in a light weight package like this should be plenty of fun, and reliable. Just my .02 Having a K20 powered crx I will tell you there is a point when you can have too much power. It doesn't make sense to drive something like that everyday. You can never really use it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Having a K20 powered crx I will tell you there is a point when you can have too much power. It doesn't make sense to drive something like that everyday. You can never really use it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i cant wait tell the day i say that!

 

yeah.....dont run stock mini me internals if ya boosting....the y8 head on a ef block will raise your compression to 10:2.1.... its perfect though for na tune....

lil advise...ive done many of these and dont wanta see ya mess up..... lil tips to this build........ 92 to 95 timing belt, 96 to 00 waterpump, and please remove that doul pin/ oring out....its inbetween 2 and 3 pistons, on the deck....and also ef headgasket..... agian...it will work out best foryou.....

anyother questions, just write back to me.
matt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm Ef-9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah.....dont run stock mini me internals if ya boosting....the y8 head on a ef block will raise your compression to 10:2.1.... its perfect though for na tune....

lil advise...ive done many of these and dont wanta see ya mess up..... lil tips to this build........ 92 to 95 timing belt, 96 to 00 waterpump, and please remove that doul pin/ oring out....its inbetween 2 and 3 pistons, on the deck....and also ef headgasket..... agian...it will work out best foryou.....

anyother questions, just write back to me.
matt </TD></TR></TABLE>

What?
First off, 92-95 timing belt, I assume you are talking about the Z6 belt. It's the same as the Y8 belt, but costs more from Honda, and you are *supposed* to use the belt to match the head. Waterpumps are the same, but in any event you would want to match the block (A6 usually) since that's where it goes. EF headgasket? Again, I'm assuming you mean the A6 gasket. I would definitely NOT USE THAT ONE, since it's made of paper and they often blow on completely stock D16A6s. The 3-layer Z6 one is a better choice.

Also (this one's not just directed at you), I think people shouldn't be super scared of boosting on medium compression (10 is medium IMO). If you tune it right, you will be fine, I know a guy who had a boosted Y8 mini-me, tuned correctly. The higher compression helps when you're not in boost. The problem is too many ghetto setups have exploded and all the high school kids who made them blamed the high compression. Yeah, if you want to boost 2bar, then you want 8:1, but if you're going on stock D rods, keep the 10 and tune it right.