As you can see on wher it says 1.. i was trying to put new spings and that hppened i got the shocks out by unscrewing where it says 2. i put everthing back. The bolt makes so that it doesnt disconnect from the trailing arm.. but it's scrary to ride like that. I was thinking about disc brake upgrade , now i think it would be really necessary. by the way if you guys want anyting from the crx manual i got it. let me know

 

So you broke the bolt on the LCA? Why did you remove that to replace the springs? I wouldn't drive around like that....what did the bolt thread into? a nut welded on? I don't know what the rear drums were like...get a bolt extractr and drill into the center of the bolt should thread it out

 

i need that in order to then unscrew the mid one and release the shock assembly out .. yes it's a nut welded on the trailling arm. is there anything better than wd 40 ?

 

yeah dude, please don't ride around like that. that will suck so much *** if your lower control arm falls out/down. your car will eat so much ****.

 

:thumbsup: if i do a disc conversion, i wouldnt need that trailing arm anymore would i ?

 

correct me if i'm wrong guys, but i'm pretty sure you'd use the one out of the 90-93 integra (if that's where you're getting your discs from).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STDClayton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">correct me if i'm wrong guys, but i'm pretty sure you'd use the one out of the 90-93 integra (if that's where you're getting your discs from).</TD></TR></TABLE> do you think that cables will have the right fitment ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Metal Typhoon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> do you think that cables will have the right fitment ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They will fit after some skillful re-routing, but 90-91 CRX e-brake cables ftw.

 

i can almost guarentee that that bolt broke because it is seized to the bushing sleeve and not because its rusted into the nut, so basically the easiest way to get it out is to cut the bolt in between the knuckle (trailing arm) and the LCA on both sides of the arm then at that point your can remove the LCA but you still then have a cut bolt both stuck in the bushing still and in the weld nut on the trailing arm, your choice here, either get a new bushing for the LCA and bust of the weld nut and put a new one on or bust out your drill and start drilling. the key to drilling a bolt like this is to start small with like an 1/8" bit and move up in steps until you have completely drilled it out, make sure you keep spraying the hole with lots of oil of some sort to keep the bit cool, once they get hot they're shot. yes there is stuff better than WD-40, WD is garbage it has no penetrating qualities what so ever, it was actually designed to as a water displacer (sp?), get your self some PB Blaster, walmart sells it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by godruler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i can almost guarentee that that bolt broke because it is seized to the bushing sleeve and not because its rusted into the nut, so basically the easiest way to get it out is to cut the bolt in between the knuckle (trailing arm) and the LCA on both sides of the arm then at that point your can remove the LCA but you still then have a cut bolt both stuck in the bushing still and in the weld nut on the trailing arm, your choice here, either get a new bushing for the LCA and bust of the weld nut and put a new one on or bust out your drill and start drilling. the key to drilling a bolt like this is to start small with like an 1/8" bit and move up in steps until you have completely drilled it out, make sure you keep spraying the hole with lots of oil of some sort to keep the bit cool, once they get hot they're shot. yes there is stuff better than WD-40, WD is garbage it has no penetrating qualities what so ever, it was actually designed to as a water displacer (sp?), get your self some PB Blaster, walmart sells it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

word! ill bet thats what happened as well.

 

i had this happen to me twice.

DISclaimer

i rode around like that for about a year and half till i bought d2 coilovers and function 7 LCA. Yes it was scary at first then i got used to it. i live in a super bumpy **** hole pot streeted town too. i did check it every now and then. It never moved. Pretty sure it didnt because it was seized so it wasnt going anywhere.

 

IVE DONE THAT AND FIXED IT !!!!

heres what i did. i took a cutoff wheel (6") and cut on the inside of the fork that holds the lca. so just to the other side of the welded nut. once i cut it i pulled it out. now the cut bolt will still be stuck inside the welded nut ( thats y it broke in the firts place) or could have got stuck in the sleeve like somone else said, if so your done, if not ..... i welded a long bolt to the cut end of the bolt stuck in the welded nut and put a wrench on it to break it loose. if this is hard to understand i will draw you a pic, but it saved my ***.

 

Yeah I learned lessons like that the hard way too. BTW I just cut that out when it happened to me, thats the easiest way to do it. Next time use a bernzomatic torch and air tools. It works wonders.