Autocross Class?
Hey for all you guys that do this on a regular basis: I went out my first time last week end, as you probably have already read some where in the forum, and I think I'm addicted to it now. so heres my question: On sunday I raced in the street mod class but I really dont think I should be in such a high class due to my inexperience. I have the mods listed below, So what class do you think I should be running or what parts should I lose to race a class that is moving more my pace?
AEM cold air
Tanabe RM
APEXi V-AFC
OEM short shifter
Eibach springs/ tokicko adjustables
JDM rear strut bar
cross drilled rotors / pads
Thanks for your Help
Anthony
CF hood
AEM cold air
Tanabe RM
APEXi V-AFC
OEM short shifter
Eibach springs/ tokicko adjustables
JDM rear strut bar
cross drilled rotors / pads
Thanks for your Help
Anthony
CF hood
If you lose the CF hood you can run in STX and battle the WRX - it is a great class for the R with mods plus it is a street tire class.
Welcome to the addiction...
Welcome to the addiction...
Why would the hood make a difference? I am a new addict to the sport as well and I am trying to understand also. The last time I went they put me in NDSP. Is that correct? I have whats listed below but my hood hasn't come in yet.
Why would the hood make a difference? I am a new addict to the sport as well and I am trying to understand also. The last time I went they put me in NDSP. Is that correct? I have whats listed below but my hood hasn't come in yet.
Why would the hood make a difference? I am a new addict to the sport as well and I am trying to understand also. The last time I went they put me in NDSP. Is that correct? I have whats listed below but my hood hasn't come in yet.
F-body guys all want sub frame connectors, Porsche guys want timing chain tensioners, the list goes on. The performance gains from these are negligible, but if you allow it for one car then you have to allow it for everyone else too. Then you have a bunch of people spending thousands to gain a couple thousandths of a second and everyone else bitching about how much stock class (or street prepared) costs to run these days or how stock doesn't mean stock anymore.
I was womdering why the hood makes such a diff. too ? but ohwell
I understand about the stock class
but in some of the mod classes I dont seee why a hood that is pretty much the same as a stock on bumps you up three to four classes ??? it just doesnt make sence??? ( I'm just venting b/c I dont want to take off my hood next wk end)
I understand about the stock class
but in some of the mod classes I dont seee why a hood that is pretty much the same as a stock on bumps you up three to four classes ??? it just doesnt make sence??? ( I'm just venting b/c I dont want to take off my hood next wk end)
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but in some of the mod classes I dont seee why a hood that is pretty much the same as a stock on bumps you up three to four
Because they're street legal. You can do tire rules one of four ways:
1. Require that every car has the same kind of tires it came with stock.
2. Assign a spec tire and make all competitors go out and buy the same tire
3. Allow slicks
4. Allow people to choose from any street legal tire available.
Obviously the only real choice for stock class is #4. Blame the tire companies for wanting to win and designing tires specifically for winning autocross events.
1. Require that every car has the same kind of tires it came with stock.
2. Assign a spec tire and make all competitors go out and buy the same tire
3. Allow slicks
4. Allow people to choose from any street legal tire available.
Obviously the only real choice for stock class is #4. Blame the tire companies for wanting to win and designing tires specifically for winning autocross events.
Me too. 
There's good reasons for every rule in the Solo 2 rulebook. A lot of them aren't apparent till you've been in the sport awhile though.
If you guys have a bunch of questions, there's an autocross group out on the internet. They have a web site called http://www.team.net and you can sign up for thier email list on the site. The list has most of the country's best drivers on it and they're a great source of knowledge for the sport.

There's good reasons for every rule in the Solo 2 rulebook. A lot of them aren't apparent till you've been in the sport awhile though.
If you guys have a bunch of questions, there's an autocross group out on the internet. They have a web site called http://www.team.net and you can sign up for thier email list on the site. The list has most of the country's best drivers on it and they're a great source of knowledge for the sport.
I don't understand why they allow DOT R tires in Stock Classes.
CB
CB
CF Hoods are not allowed under the rules in STS or STX...
If you are going to be serious at autocrossing then you need to invest in the SCCA rule book. It only cost ~$25 or $20 if you are a SCCA member. If you have just started autocrossing, I would suggest starting in the Novice classes until you get some wins under your belt. Then, go into the normal class classification. Autocrossing maybe the Grassroots of racing but to most all of us it is still racing and there are rules to follow. If there were no rules then there would be no order. Read the rule book and determine where your car falls into, if you wish, you can always move to different classes with any additions or removal of parts but your points will not follow to the new class.
I HAVE THE RULE BOOK! but it reads like contract and NOT in real language
sorry but I am trying to understand the rules so I can follow them
so get off your high horse and help a fellow autocrosser out PLEAZE
sorry but I am trying to understand the rules so I can follow them
so get off your high horse and help a fellow autocrosser out PLEAZE
I HAVE THE RULE BOOK! but it reads like contract and NOT in real language
sorry but I am trying to understand the rules so I can follow them
so get off your high horse and help a fellow autocrosser out PLEAZE
sorry but I am trying to understand the rules so I can follow them
so get off your high horse and help a fellow autocrosser out PLEAZE
It is very easy.
1. find which class your car is in. (SS,A,B,C,D,F,G,H).
2. Write a list of ALL the mods on your car.
3. Begin at the Stock classification.
4. If you have an item that is not listed or have made an adjustment (the timing)under what you can alter then move to Street Prepared classification.
5. See #4 and move to the higher classification (Prepared, Modified, Street Touring) until your car meets the requirements of that class.
If it is not listed within your classification then it is illegal in that class.
Your original question, no your car will fall into E Prepared and that is because of the CF hood. Loose the hood and the car will be CSP (C Street Prepared) because of the rest of the mods. I do not think you can use the VAFC in Street Touring, check the book. You would have to remove everything on your list to run in Stock class.
Good Luck!
You would have to remove everything on your list to run in Stock class.
You can keep your shocks and catback in stock class.
You can keep your shocks and catback in stock class.
so I can run street Mod ,street prepared or STX?
which is the slower of the classes?
I was planning on ditch the hood for the next event
which is the slower of the classes?
I was planning on ditch the hood for the next event
01 PY Type R-JDM front end w/Factor X CF Hood, Ground Control Coil-overs, 15" Kosei K1w/205/50R15 Falken Azenis, AEM CAI, Comptech exhaust, DC JDM Header, Hi-Flo cat., Fluidyne radiator, DC Short Shifter, JDM Hondaparts.com cam gears, Field V-Tec controller.......more to come.
You are allowed to run DOT R tires in stock classes. Actually, you can use them in every class except the new STX classes.





