few problems, just finished replacing H23
replaced broke H23 with another H23. manual trans, 92 Si.
of course there are going to be problems, here are mine:
1. car started right up, but idle is waaaay erratic, goes from around 1k to around 2.5-3k over and over, doesnt stop.
2. clutch pedal drops straight to floor with no effort, i can blow on the thing and it'll drop. will filling and bleeding system take care of that?
3. and last, you know that big ground cable that comes straight off of the battery cables? where exactly does that tie to, because i had a super brain fart and i have no clue. im guessing block but i dont know exactly where.
no CEL's at all, vacuum lines were all labeled and im 99.999% sure they're all in the right spots, and all connectors are, well... connected
thanks guys 
NEW PROBLEM
all the old issues i had are resolved. well maybe except for idle, but i think the throttle cable might be a little too tight. i was driving home and every now and then, coming to a stop, idle would go from 1k to 2k two or three times, then go back to normal. car drives pretty good, just that idle kinda jackin me up a little bit. also i'd have it in gear and it would be accelerating without my foot on the pedal, only slightly though. again i think my throttle cable is slightly tight.
and now i have engine light on, code is 23 which i know is knock sensor. any ideas of what to check and/or do? is the knock sensor the one high up on the back of the block, right under the intake manifold? someone told me that during swaps that sensor breaks a lot, i made triple sure to protect it so i took it out. im pretty sure its fine. any ideas?
Modified by xxmastermindxx at 11:29 PM 8/12/2006
Modified by xxmastermindxx at 1:18 AM 8/13/2006
Modified by xxmastermindxx at 6:25 PM 8/13/2006
of course there are going to be problems, here are mine:
1. car started right up, but idle is waaaay erratic, goes from around 1k to around 2.5-3k over and over, doesnt stop.
2. clutch pedal drops straight to floor with no effort, i can blow on the thing and it'll drop. will filling and bleeding system take care of that?
3. and last, you know that big ground cable that comes straight off of the battery cables? where exactly does that tie to, because i had a super brain fart and i have no clue. im guessing block but i dont know exactly where.
no CEL's at all, vacuum lines were all labeled and im 99.999% sure they're all in the right spots, and all connectors are, well... connected
thanks guys 
NEW PROBLEM
all the old issues i had are resolved. well maybe except for idle, but i think the throttle cable might be a little too tight. i was driving home and every now and then, coming to a stop, idle would go from 1k to 2k two or three times, then go back to normal. car drives pretty good, just that idle kinda jackin me up a little bit. also i'd have it in gear and it would be accelerating without my foot on the pedal, only slightly though. again i think my throttle cable is slightly tight.
and now i have engine light on, code is 23 which i know is knock sensor. any ideas of what to check and/or do? is the knock sensor the one high up on the back of the block, right under the intake manifold? someone told me that during swaps that sensor breaks a lot, i made triple sure to protect it so i took it out. im pretty sure its fine. any ideas?
Modified by xxmastermindxx at 11:29 PM 8/12/2006
Modified by xxmastermindxx at 1:18 AM 8/13/2006
Modified by xxmastermindxx at 6:25 PM 8/13/2006
did you check your throttle-body? i had a leak in mine which caused the idle to fluctuate like nuts. also triple check your vac lines and make sure your timing is on point.
slave-cylinder (for clutch) *needs* to be bled for sure, you'll get your clutch pressure back.
kudos on the install though.
slave-cylinder (for clutch) *needs* to be bled for sure, you'll get your clutch pressure back.
kudos on the install though.
the erratic idle is a vacuum leak.
the clutch pedal issue is the clutch cylinders telling you they need to be bled.
the clutch pedal issue is the clutch cylinders telling you they need to be bled.
thanks for the help guys, cleared up some of my worries
about that ground cable, the one that comes directly off the battery, anybody know exactly where on the body or block it gets bolted to?
about that ground cable, the one that comes directly off the battery, anybody know exactly where on the body or block it gets bolted to?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xxmastermindxx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
about that ground cable, the one that comes directly off the battery, anybody know exactly where on the body or block it gets bolted to?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have 2 big ground cables: one from the battery to the frame and the other from the tranny to the frame (there's a bracket bolted on the front of the tranny to put the wire on).
You can bolt them however you like, just make sure the place you bolt them is bare metal and has a good connection....sand it and clean it.
about that ground cable, the one that comes directly off the battery, anybody know exactly where on the body or block it gets bolted to?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have 2 big ground cables: one from the battery to the frame and the other from the tranny to the frame (there's a bracket bolted on the front of the tranny to put the wire on).
You can bolt them however you like, just make sure the place you bolt them is bare metal and has a good connection....sand it and clean it.
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for the knock sensor, it is located in the back under the intake manifold, sometime its the plug that is messed up so you might have to replace the plug. Easy way I find for getting rid of a knock sensor is runing a chip ECU and disabling the knock sensor
.
for your Idle problem, if you dont have a vaccum leak then bleed your coolent sometime if you have air bubble in your coolent it will cause your car to idle funky.
to bleed your coolent first wait when the car is cool, pop the radiator cap, turn the car on, turn your heater on full blast, then look for the coolent bleed screw by the upper radiator hose housing its close to the dizzy. lose that a bit so it'll release any air in your coolent, then let it run for 15 mins then tighten the screw, turn the car off and put the radiator cap back on. remember if you need to fill your radiator do it while the car is runing, WARNING DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN YOUR CAR IS HOT!
If that doesnt work then try adjusting your Idle next, just use a paper clip or wires and jump your service connector, then unplug your IACV and then adjust your idle with the Idle adjusting screw on the throttle body, when you have it where you want turn your car off plug your IACV back in, take out your paper clip or wires, and reset your ECU.
.for your Idle problem, if you dont have a vaccum leak then bleed your coolent sometime if you have air bubble in your coolent it will cause your car to idle funky.
to bleed your coolent first wait when the car is cool, pop the radiator cap, turn the car on, turn your heater on full blast, then look for the coolent bleed screw by the upper radiator hose housing its close to the dizzy. lose that a bit so it'll release any air in your coolent, then let it run for 15 mins then tighten the screw, turn the car off and put the radiator cap back on. remember if you need to fill your radiator do it while the car is runing, WARNING DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN YOUR CAR IS HOT!
If that doesnt work then try adjusting your Idle next, just use a paper clip or wires and jump your service connector, then unplug your IACV and then adjust your idle with the Idle adjusting screw on the throttle body, when you have it where you want turn your car off plug your IACV back in, take out your paper clip or wires, and reset your ECU.
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