Brake Pad
part of your wheel shimmy problem can be directly attributed to your current slotted and drilled rotors.
to alleviate this problem, get some blank rotors (autozone blanks are a very good value) and pads like Hawk HPS, a great street pad with some mild auto-x.
the steering wheel chatter/shimmy is runout on the rotor. could also be something suspension related if you dont feel any pulsing in the pedal--pusling in the pedal would be warped rotors or uneven pad deposits creating thickness variation.
to alleviate this problem, get some blank rotors (autozone blanks are a very good value) and pads like Hawk HPS, a great street pad with some mild auto-x.
the steering wheel chatter/shimmy is runout on the rotor. could also be something suspension related if you dont feel any pulsing in the pedal--pusling in the pedal would be warped rotors or uneven pad deposits creating thickness variation.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WalkerGSR1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The brakes where fine this just started to happen couple days ago. Aren't Slotted brakes better than the blanks?</TD></TR></TABLE>
not necessarily. solid rotors have more mass, so they can deal with the heat better than something with less mass. bigger heatsink=
in my book.
I dont think there are many if any pro SCCA or NASA honda racers that use slotted or drilled rotors. I've only seen solid/blank rotrs with the exception of those with specialized brake kits from companies like stoptech, baer, willwood, etc--even then you can order these rotors to be blank.
not necessarily. solid rotors have more mass, so they can deal with the heat better than something with less mass. bigger heatsink=
in my book.I dont think there are many if any pro SCCA or NASA honda racers that use slotted or drilled rotors. I've only seen solid/blank rotrs with the exception of those with specialized brake kits from companies like stoptech, baer, willwood, etc--even then you can order these rotors to be blank.
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