Ive searched, all I got was someone said they weighed their integra rotors at 14 pounds each but did not mention what model.
Anyways I bought some aerospeed crossed drilled/slotted GSR front brake rotors, and plan to throw them on my 90 CRX si. Well Once I got them here they seem heavy as hell. I am really hesitant to put them off if its going to add that much unsprung weight to my car. Does anyone know where to find the weight of stock CRX si rotors, and the 10.5" GSR rotors. If they are heavier than GSR's then I will just put on the OEM rotors then.
I will get a scale to weigh the aerospeeds and post it up.

Thanks for any info!

 

The Brembo blank 282mm Prelude VTEC rotors (1993-1996) that are on my Integra weigh 13.5 pounds each. I did not weigh the stock 262mm rotors. BTW: for 94-01 Integras, only the ITR has larger rotors, which are 282mm. All other Integras have 262mm front rotors.

 

You could always consider picking up cross-drilled, slotted, or dimpled rotors. But in my opinion they take away from the durability and reliability from the rotor.

Ali

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrinceAli132 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could always consider picking up cross-drilled, slotted, or dimpled rotors. But in my opinion they take away from the durability and reliability from the rotor.

Ali</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please read this thread on blank rotor practicality.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1437507

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Please read this thread on blank rotor practicality.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1437507</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with you, in that blank rotors are better. I was just stating to the OP that if he really cares about the weight aspect and not surface area gained for braking then he could consider that route. Sorry if i wasn't clear, i am a big advocate for blank rotors, especially Autozone blanks cause of their warranty.

Ali

 

I track my cars and I keep track of my miles between various services. I keep track of total miles as well as actual track miles. For the front rotors, the track miles are most relevant, because of the expansion/contraction as they get hot and cool down. I replace the front rotors when they crack - ideally, when the cracks are about half an inch long and you can start to feel them with the edge of your fingernail.

I've tried all kinds of rotors - solid-faced, cross-drilled, and slotted. I have seen absolutely NO difference in the lifespan (measured in the number of track miles before cracking) between these various types of rotors. Based on the miles I've gotten, blank rotors don't last any longer than cross-drilled or slotted rotors, with identical usage.

I've also used some two-piece rotors with flexible coupling hardware, and those do last somewhat longer than one-piece rotors (but even the two-piece ones eventually crack).

 

Slotted and drilled rotors also have the disadvantage of winter endurance. I had a set of cadmium plated Power Slot rotors on my car before. A single winter removed the plating from the non-swept areas. The slots then became corrosion nucleation points in the middle of the swept area. The rotors were of acceptable thickness, but I threw them away because the slots were flaking and widening.

Regarding your rotor endurance, you probably used decent brands since you actually care about the safety and performance. I'm not denying your experience, but I am opening a discussion. Was there a difference in the failure mechanism between the blank, slotted, and drilled? Did the drilled rotors have cracks propagating from the holes?

 

the only real way u can get a lighter rotor is to get a 2-piece from stoptech or get mugens. Either way will cost you 500 for a pair.

It is important for a rotor to be that heavy(store heat), so if you are concerned about unsprung weight, buy some nice rotas and call it the day.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Was there a difference in the failure mechanism between the blank, slotted, and drilled?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope. All three had cracks in the radial direction.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did the drilled rotors have cracks propagating from the holes?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The cracks went through the holes. However, since they lasted just as long as the other kinds, and they didn't develop any sooner than the other kinds, and they were in the same direction as the other kinds, I would conclude that the holes didn't "propagate" the cracks; they would have formed anyway if the holes were not there.