Hey how you doing,
1997 GSR
I was looking at some of the archives on the axle install. But I was wondering if anybody had a real hard time trying to get that nut in for the LCA.

Also what if the threads got a little messed up. Does anybody know the exact part name for this?

Does anybody have a good trick for getting the the nut in??

Thanks

 

anybody damnn......

 

it will most likely break and you will have to drill it out

 

which but and bolt for the LCA. shock fork, hub assembly, LCA to subframe...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ewaugh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">which but and bolt for the LCA. shock fork, hub assembly, LCA to subframe...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im going to say the hub assembly......... Its right behind the rotor/hub......Before the fork

 

Which one in the picture?

1 - Holds the shock to the fork
2 - Holds the fork to the LCA
3 - Hold the lower ball joint to the LCA from the knuckle

 

Dunno if this helps

 

wat i do is put a crow bar in between the lca and ball joint. then with the car on jackstands, i take the jack and jack up the bottom on the lca so it releives the pussure nd it should pop right out. when ur suspension is resting, theres tension on the ball joint....u have to jack up the lca to make it level in order to relieve most of the pressure

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsr dood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wat i do is put a crow bar in between the lca and ball joint. then with the car on jackstands, i take the jack and jack up the bottom on the lca so it releives the pussure nd it should pop right out. when ur suspension is resting, theres tension on the ball joint....u have to jack up the lca to make it level in order to relieve most of the pressure </TD></TR></TABLE>

I took it off already, I just cant get it back on lol

 

I just had the exact same problem...those threads strip really easily...the best solution involves replacing that entire ball joint, which requires pulling the axle out of the hub..

My temporary solution was to jam the pickle fork in there so it didn't spin and make the bitch thread on...mine crossthreaded, but at least it's on for now...I didn't feel like changing that thing out after just completing a motor swap and type r front end conversion, I needed my car rolling yesterday..

After looking at your picture your threads don't look too bad, you may want to try a different castle nut also, I've had a problem with that stripping as well...

Either way, make sure you slide a cotter pin in there, you don't want that thing coming out once you get a nut on there...good luck

 

That wasnt my picture that was from a DIY axle swap.

are you saying that if i get the nut at least a few threads in there that I can drive around wit it??

 

use an impact gun, **** goes right on!

 

My car is on stands. cant really move it right now. I bet the impact would get it on .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18c5__Owns &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That wasnt my picture that was from a DIY axle swap.

are you saying that if i get the nut at least a few threads in there that I can drive around wit it??</TD></TR></TABLE>

........

 

if its cross threaded impact wont help much but to expletive it up more and then the nut might even get stuck


first of all i recommend replacing thje ball joint
if it fials on u and breaks
good bye to axles,lca,kuncles,wheels,tires,
yada yada


2nd
if its not that badly cross threaded
go by a die and try to chase the treads first

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importdude2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if its cross threaded impact wont help much but to expletive it up more and then the nut might even get stuck


first of all i recommend replacing thje ball joint
if it fials on u and breaks
good bye to axles,lca,kuncles,wheels,tires,
yada yada


2nd
if its not that badly cross threaded
go by a die and try to chase the treads first
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Where can I get the DIE kit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18c5__Owns &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> are you saying that if i get the nut at least a few threads in there that I can drive around wit it??</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wasn't saying that, that's not safe...what I did with mine allowed me to spin the castle nut all the way on and get a cotter pin in there...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RandomTask76 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the best solution involves replacing that entire ball joint, which requires pulling the axle out of the hub..</TD></TR></TABLE>

But, you definitely could try the die first, and you can get that at an auto parts store..i.e. PepBoys

I've found that the problem with using an impact is that if it's cross-threading it'll just spin the entire ball joint and mess up the threads and nut even more, even with the control arm jacked up...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RandomTask76 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

But, you definitely could try the die first, and you can get that at an auto parts store..i.e. PepBoys

I've found that the problem with using an impact is that if it's cross-threading it'll just spin the entire ball joint and mess up the threads and nut even more, even with the control arm jacked up...</TD></TR></TABLE>

How exactly does that work. I've always heard pple talking about it but never actually seen it done.
A little more help here

 

...

 

osh./sears
shoudl be 4 bucks

12x125 if i remember correctly

 

you probaly bashed the ball joint out with a hammer didnt you? if you dont know how to use a die, get someone else to do it, because its easy to mess the threads up worse if you re-thread it crooked. try filing the ridge off all the way around the bolt, just at the bottom enough to let the nut catch on good thread, and slowy work the nut up a few threads, then back down, and 'chase' it that way. you'll save alot of trouble

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importdude2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">osh./sears
shoudl be 4 bucks

12x125 if i remember correctly
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks i'll look for it tomorrow.

Lowes didnt have them

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC4_2nr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you probaly bashed the ball joint out with a hammer didnt you? if you dont know how to use a die, get someone else to do it, because its easy to mess the threads up worse if you re-thread it crooked. try filing the ridge off all the way around the bolt, just at the bottom enough to let the nut catch on good thread, and slowy work the nut up a few threads, then back down, and 'chase' it that way. you'll save alot of trouble</TD></TR></TABLE>

I tried chasing it no help

 

Just replace it. It is only $30 and you can beat it out with a hammer with the knuckle still on the car.

If you get the nut back on, you will have a hell of a time getting it back off. Do it right and replace the ball joint.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ragejed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use an impact gun, **** goes right on!</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

call me stupid or blind. where the hell do u get this kit. Pep boys/ Auto zone didnt have the right size.

I looked online at sears, cant find it, if someone could find this for me please...
I really need my car on the road