alright. ive got a 1.6 l vtec in a 94 civic ex. the head is a z6 and the block is a d16a at least thats what it says on the block... i did a swap. and the motor was running fine for about 3 days. then i shift to second and it boggs out on me. so i have 3 buddies (asc certified) take a look at it. when we try to start. the starter wont engage. so i got a new starter. then the dizz cap had oil in it so i got a new one. the plugs are about 7 days old. the timing is on and everything. the crank adn cam are lined up. but it wont ******* fire. it will missfire every now and then. and shoot a flame out the manifold or shoot smoke. and so i looked at the fuel pressure regulator. it was clogged. so i took one off my other z6 and put it on. it still wont start. could it be the distributer its self even tho its firing. or could it be the engine is flooded or whaT I cant figure it out. 3 guys from auto zone cant figure it out and 3 asc certifieds are stumped. and weve spen 4 days looking at it. sumone please help me. the timing belt never jumped so im pretty shure its not a bent valve. please help

aim: johnxdeere22

phone: 405-706-2062

im near oklahoma city if anyone is around that knows.

 

i take it that the coil in the dizzy was checked? or no?

 

no... but i mean im getting spark.

 

have you compression checked? sounds like what my 850 was doing.. my rotor was fried...then the timing was off.....after everything i had it compression checked and it was d-e-d ded.

 

yo that s#*t happen to me. my engine would turn over but would start. There was spark coming out of the distributor but would start. I put on a spare distributor i has and it started right up. You might want to try that out. I had a d16y8.

 

yea that seemed to me. but 181$ is a big amount to go on a a hunch
i want to make sure that everything is good. umm the commpression check. i mean. we stuffed a shirt down the spark plug hole and took out the plug and it blew the shirt out.

 

it is prob the ignightor in the dizzy,i had a few go out on me and the same thing was happening.if you got a spare dizzy that you know works try that and see what happens.

 

my car did this after I swapped a b18a on to my b16 head. It did that exact same thing. Bogged down on me after I shifted. Then pulled hard. I don't know what caused it because it magically stopped like the next day.

 

First off its ASE not C, and second the certified is a big *** joke majority of the time. It basically means you could read a book, it doesnt garentee that you know what you doing (like in this case). Its cool to have it and means you SHOULD care about your job but really its a joke.

Now onto your problem. Its very simple, your firing order is off. How do i know this without seeing your car? Because of this:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoHc94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> it will missfire every now and then. and shoot a flame out the manifold or shoot smoke. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That is a big give away of way off firing order. Check out your spark plug wires and see if they match to this picture.

 

lol

I had this same problem on 89 accord after auto to manual conversion and head swap. My car sat in front of my house for 7 months because I ran out of time and had 3 more cars to get done. Not that it took me 7 months to finish other cars I moved inbetween and some other ****.
Moral of the story ended up being the #2 and #3 wires on dizzy were backwards.
Changed and fired right up.

Worth checking.

 

just recheck everything again make sure ign. timming is ok and also check cam timming and valve. if you have aset of old wires try to use them. or you can hook up a vac gauge and if the needle is low or flickering it has to do with ign. system timming pretty much

 

mine is lined up according to my haynes manual. ive double checked triple checked and quad checked those wires. there in the right firing order.

 

Are the valves adjusted correctly?

I didn't do this when I got a head back from a machine shop and I was stumped for a week why my car wouldn't start.

Did a valve adj and it fired right up!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoHc94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine is lined up according to my haynes manual. ive double checked triple checked and quad checked those wires. there in the right firing order.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats great, does it look like the picture i posted? Theres a tilt in the D series Distributor that people forget to mention. If its the same as the picture check out the ignitor and ignition coil. Since it was drenched in oil take off the distributor and the cap and spray it with electrical cleaner (or WD40 for people that done have electrical cleaner) and dry it out very well and try it again.

 

i had the same thing happen to me in my b18 the fuel presure regulator was bad and just dumping fuel into the motor it hydro lock and would not turn over. all i had to do was swap the regulator and get all the extra fuel out of the motor and it fired right up it smoked a little for like a week after but now its fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats great, does it look like the picture i posted? Theres a tilt in the D series Distributor that people forget to mention. If its the same as the picture check out the ignitor and ignition coil. Since it was drenched in oil take off the distributor and the cap and spray it with electrical cleaner (or WD40 for people that done have electrical cleaner) and dry it out very well and try it again. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that "tilt" can be SUPER annoying

 

Wonder if it's the igntion coil/igniter O.o

Just my $.02, it would 'cause the misfire, and if raw fuel left the exhaust ports, it'd 'cause the backfire too...

It's worth taking a look at anyways

 

if there was oil in the distributor cap there is a chance that the bearing died and took out one or two of the little arms of the CPS. Which will cause really strange things to happen.

my gut feel was the firing order as well, but that's covered.
have you checked for codes?
have you checked the plug wires?

 

yea we checked everythinbg. the firing order is right. as i said. it was runnin fine for a week. the ignitor coil im not sure. ill have to look at that.

 

Borrow a friend's distributor. That wasn't too hard now was it? Considering it takes exactly 3 minutes to swap them, you should have your problem fixed in fifteen minutes or less.

You can paypal $100 to Cryoplasma@hotmail.com. Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First off its ASE not C, and second the certified is a big *** joke majority of the time. It basically means you could read a book, it doesnt garentee that you know what you doing (like in this case). Its cool to have it and means you SHOULD care about your job but really its a joke.

Now onto your problem. Its very simple, your firing order is off. How do i know this without seeing your car? Because of this:

That is a big give away of way off firing order. Check out your spark plug wires and see if they match to this picture.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay first off, it can be ASC or ASE, they are two different things, second ASE means you can read a book?? If that was the case then why doesnt ever kid out of high school go work at Honda after they take thier ASE tests? They arent easy tests, there is more to them then Honda swaps, if thats all that means... you can read a book well then thats all any test is, better go tell the lawyers that they dont really need to pass the bar either. Its just a test, you just have to memorize **** from the book right?? they dont really have to know anything.

 

Put the motor in tdc on no. 1 cylinder, pop off the cap, make sure the rotor is pointing to no 1 cylinder. Just advice, always check this kind of stuff before you go buying parts. Make sure the dist is 180 out the wrong direction too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kevinarich &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Okay first off, it can be ASC or ASE, they are two different things, second ASE means you can read a book?? If that was the case then why doesnt ever kid out of high school go work at Honda after they take thier ASE tests? They arent easy tests, there is more to them then Honda swaps, if thats all that means... you can read a book well then thats all any test is, better go tell the lawyers that they dont really need to pass the bar either. Its just a test, you just have to memorize **** from the book right?? they dont really have to know anything. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll go tell them that. All a lawyer has to do is read some books. The only difference is, he has to read a SHITLOAD of books...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kevinarich &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay first off, it can be ASC or ASE, they are two different things, second ASE means you can read a book?? If that was the case then why doesnt ever kid out of high school go work at Honda after they take thier ASE tests? They arent easy tests, there is more to them then Honda swaps, if thats all that means... you can read a book well then thats all any test is, better go tell the lawyers that they dont really need to pass the bar either. Its just a test, you just have to memorize **** from the book right?? they dont really have to know anything. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well i was unaware of the ASC, my appoligies on that. But for the ASE certified patch doesnt mean anything now as it did when it first came out. Ive seen people that are lube techs not knowing anything about engines, electronics, brakes, etc. only how to change oil get sent to classes to take the ASE just so the shop can have "ASE certified mechanics". Does that really mean they know what there doing? Of course not. I have my book for the test and am still debating taking it for the name. Really for a good mechanic it matters more on experience then what the test shows. In my opinion its a joke.

As for the lawyer comment if you could memories everything for the BAR exam and can pass it it still doesnt give you a place in a nice firm. There looking for the people that spends alot of money to go to the fancy schools then get there BAR as oppose to the little guy that can pass the test on there know. Everything is books over experience now.

This is all my personal opinion and the way i see it, because ive had friends that went to UTI and all that is is to train you to pass the ASE. Its 85% book and 15% hands on, unless of course you get into a program by your grades, which tells you waht, your a good book person. I say all this because i cant take test, no matter how much i try. But i have been proven to be better then a few ASE mechanics.

 

hes actually right...i work at honda and ASE means jack to my bosses or any other tech here.. when you say its shooting out the manifold do you mean intake manifold? if it sounds like its farting you have the dizzy 180 degrees out