ok i have a b18a1 motor and im gonna put a b16a2 head on it. i was talkin bout it to a couple people at the track and they were tellin my im gonna blow my bottom end rite out after a thousand miles. i dont think i am because im puttin in all new main bearings and arp rod bolts and arp head bolts. there saying im still gonna blow my motor. do u guys think it wud blow or shud i change my rods to? i dont realy want to do the rods because i dont wanna take the pistons out and throw off the piston wall clearances wen i put them back in. can i get some advice please guys.

 

OMFG, another one of these threads. It all depends on the build quality, how high youre going to rev it and if you have it tuned for ****.

 

built it correct, reliable as can be, people say lsv that blow, ask them how they build their ****, you can build whateva motor you want, as long if is done correct and tune it right, your save

 

i have a ls/vtec with turbo, its fully built. Its only 8 months old but already has 3000+ miles on the motor. So like they said as long as you built it right you shouldn't have to worry about your motor taking a **** for awhile.

since you are doing a mild ls/vtec (no turbo, non-high compression), its really not that complex. you might not even have to use the arps depending on how bad you are going to beat the motor. i would get the golden eagal conversion kit tho.
its way better than you trying to make one since you hardly know about the ls/vtec build. this will assure the proper oil pressure to the vtec head.

 

If I have Ls turbo I dont need the golden eagle conversion kit do I?

 

What does a ls turbo have to do with a ls/vtec??? You can use the sandwich plate for an oil feed for the turbo, but as far as the conversion kit....no.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bboysake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I have Ls turbo I dont need the golden eagle conversion kit do I?</TD></TR></TABLE>

here an easy way to find the answer to your question:
1) you have a LS motor....rite??
2) so therefore you have no VTEC.....rite??
3) so therefore you need no vtec conversion kit.........get it???

glad i could help, but i fell sorry for you that i had to even explain
this.

 

o i already bought that kit along with a stage two clutch 8lb flywheel 255 walboro fuel pump aem fuel rail skunk 2 manifold cold air intake 440 injecter fpr and full msd ignitionand prolly a couple other things i cant think of

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by moosepoop21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">o i already bought that kit along with a stage two clutch 8lb flywheel 255 walboro fuel pump aem fuel rail skunk 2 manifold cold air intake 440 injecter fpr and full msd ignitionand prolly a couple other things i cant think of</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ditch the MSD ignition. And you will need a different ECU from your LS ecu. 440 cc injectors sound like overkill for your setup. Tuning is key. Spend $ on a good tune before you buy any more useless bolton parts.

 

ive had a poorly built ls/vtec that lasted me for like 2 years. i think it would have lasted longer if i hadnt gone boost. I had a b18b1 block with like 120k miles on it and we slapped on a gsr head and that was it. had my head tapped at a local shop and some custom stainless steel lines from a hotrod shop. ridicuiosly getto garage build up.(we were noobs) the only thing i remember replacing was the timing belt and the water pump. drove it daily, smashed to 8k ocasionally, lasted about 2-3 years and finially blew the cylinder wall after i went boost.

 

man dont listen to them i have what u have but a b16 head gsr cams and blox intake mani and just make sure u get r oil pump and a 22t water pump and you will be fine i have 20000 miles on mine drive it every day because i deliver food right now so i all gravy also make sure to get a vtec ecu if u get a p72 u need a knock sensor and if u get a chipped p28 your good so do what u do and #%^^ the hater lsvtec all the way pm me if you need any help built my own lsvtec also ge conversion kit works well

mine has boost coming this weekend will post dyno soon

 

well will the stock ls distributor work? also im getting a d series vtec solenoid for free and wondering if it wud work. i looked at both the d and b series solenoid visualy threw pictures and they oth look identical so i dont see y not.

 

SEARCH before you do anything to your car. I searched for about a year before i even started buying parts for my lsvtec swap. If you use your ls dizzy you will need to cut off the bottom right mounting ear. Im not sure about the solenoid but i bet it doesnt work. You seriously need to search. There are THOUSANDS of topics on lsvtec and MANY MANY lsvtec builds on here including mine and bigtegies(not sure if thats how you spell his name) but you will get all your questions answered plus some if you search and just read everything you can. Ive had my lsvtec in for about 9 months and it runs just fine. Just had to work out a few kinks but other than that it flys. But from what ive heard the first lsvtec ever built still runs. so just keep that in mind when you hear about all these idiots who tried to build lsvtec and they fucked it up by putting crap used parts back in their engine.

 

I was meaning once I go Ls/Vtec Turbo...drr

 

you can still turbo a lsvtec and not have it blow. But you have to build your **** up first. Dont use oem crap or used crap and expect it to last forever

 

Building the block or head?

 

block....."building the head" is often overrated and an overused term. The only thing in a head that will lead to engine failure is the valvesprings and thats only if you're trying to push the engine well behind its stock rev limiter.

 

Oh so yeah headwork?Cause this guy was was telling me the rods have less than 100 miles on them they were put in and the crank had a bad journal so it spun a rod bearing. Rods and pistons are in perfect shape no stress marks or scarring. He just bought brand new rings wrist pins and locks for the pistons so they will be ready to go for whoever buys them. The rods are 134mm which is stock B16 rod length. The pistons are 81.5mm which is .020 overbore. You will need to have your block bored for the pistons to fit doesn't matter what block you have all B series motors have 81mm bore so keep that in mind.

So is that a good deal for $550-$600? And it'll perfectly work in my ls motor?