Starting problem, starter relay? need help!
I went to start up my '96 LS this morning annnnnnnndd ... nothing.
The battery is fully charged. Everything came on, but there was no click from the solenoid. I've checked all the obvious things ... fuses, ground points, shorted the clutch switch, etc.
I tested the solenoid lead, and it never got any power with the column switch in <start> position. I also shorted current directly from the battery to the solenoid terminal, and then it cranked just fine. So I'm guessing I've got a relay somewhere between the column and the solenoid lead that's burned up. So my question is where might that relay(s) be located?
And btw my electricals are 100% stock, and I've no alarm.
Thanks!
The battery is fully charged. Everything came on, but there was no click from the solenoid. I've checked all the obvious things ... fuses, ground points, shorted the clutch switch, etc.
I tested the solenoid lead, and it never got any power with the column switch in <start> position. I also shorted current directly from the battery to the solenoid terminal, and then it cranked just fine. So I'm guessing I've got a relay somewhere between the column and the solenoid lead that's burned up. So my question is where might that relay(s) be located?
And btw my electricals are 100% stock, and I've no alarm.
Thanks!
Ok if i am understanding this right it is your main relay. Located on the driver side kick panel behind the coin tray near your left knee while sitting in there. Pull that coin try out and there should be a grey box somewhere in that area. These are known to go bad because the solder contacts are ba din extreme heat and cold. You could remove it and check the contacts but a new relay is worth it and they are bout 50$ but dont quote me.
Does the starter solenoid signal/power go through the main relay?
I tested all the poles going to the main relay (that's the one relay I did look at) and none of them were getting 12v when I turned the key to the start position. So maybe my problem is farther upstream.
I tested all the poles going to the main relay (that's the one relay I did look at) and none of them were getting 12v when I turned the key to the start position. So maybe my problem is farther upstream.
might be the ignition switch , by teg and my civics ignition switches went out . i installed a push button start and like majic it was fixed . both of my cars would do nothing when i tried to start them and i replaced evrything and come to find out it was a 8 dollar problem .
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It may be the ignition switch, but the blower fan still clicks off when I turn the key so some signal is still making it through. That's why I'm trying to track down a relay between the column switch and solenoid.
Ok, I found this ...
This is for '90 Integra, but I'm guessing the setup in my '96 is very similar. What I need to know is where is that starter relay physically located in my car? I'm 99% sure that's where my problem is.
This is for '90 Integra, but I'm guessing the setup in my '96 is very similar. What I need to know is where is that starter relay physically located in my car? I'm 99% sure that's where my problem is.
I own a 90 integra and when I recently removed my heater box located right behind the center console. After I removed it my car would no longer start and after looking through several wiring diagrams I found that the starter relay is mounted on the heater box and I had unpluged it. As soon as i found that out I plugged it back in and it started right up. I hope that helps.
That's probably the next step if it turns out to not be the relay. I suspect it is the relay though because the AC blower is still shutting off when I turn the key. Hence I think that switch is ok.
Sounds more like the clutch switch to me. Had the same symptoms two days go.
First thing, try push starting it. If it runs, its not the ignition switch, its the clutch switch.
The starter will not get a signal if this is faulty.
I haven't been home yet, LS90. That's the first thing I'll look for. I've heard a couple other people hint that it's mounted somewhere near the heater box.
I tried shorting the clutch switch already. It didn't make any difference. I don't think I was even getting any voltage at the clutch switch (looks like that's a ground switch off the relay) which again would point to either the starter relay or some bad wiring thereabouts as I'm pretty sure the column/key switch is good. I will test the column switch tonight though.
I tried shorting the clutch switch already. It didn't make any difference. I don't think I was even getting any voltage at the clutch switch (looks like that's a ground switch off the relay) which again would point to either the starter relay or some bad wiring thereabouts as I'm pretty sure the column/key switch is good. I will test the column switch tonight though.
Found it.
Silly me was testing the lower switch on the clutch pedal which I presume is for deactivating the cruise control. The clutch interlock switch is farther up. The switch itself was fine, but there's a silicone plug that goes in a hole in the clutch pedal lever which is what pushes the interlock switch button. That had dry-rotted out (found the chunks in my floorboard) so the switch push button was just going right through the now empty hole.
Amazing how a $0.05 chunk of rubber can stop a car dead in its tracks.
Oh well, live and learn. Thank you everyone for all the advice.
Silly me was testing the lower switch on the clutch pedal which I presume is for deactivating the cruise control. The clutch interlock switch is farther up. The switch itself was fine, but there's a silicone plug that goes in a hole in the clutch pedal lever which is what pushes the interlock switch button. That had dry-rotted out (found the chunks in my floorboard) so the switch push button was just going right through the now empty hole.
Amazing how a $0.05 chunk of rubber can stop a car dead in its tracks.
Oh well, live and learn. Thank you everyone for all the advice.
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