Electrical problem, no fuel pump prime!!!!!!!!!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Miramar, Florida, United States
To keep things short, i messed up on the injector wiring for dsm injectors on a 97 prelude. Had one of the cables switched.
Now car doesnt start.
-No fuel pump prime when i turn car on ON.
-Replaced main relay.
-Tried stock ecu and same results.
-I noticed though that when i hook up my p28 with s200b the little red LED on the hondata unit does NOT come on, even with a brand new interface cable. No power to ecu either???
-Checked all fuses
Anyone know what the hell is going on??? Why wont the fuel pump come on???
Now car doesnt start.
-No fuel pump prime when i turn car on ON.
-Replaced main relay.
-Tried stock ecu and same results.
-I noticed though that when i hook up my p28 with s200b the little red LED on the hondata unit does NOT come on, even with a brand new interface cable. No power to ecu either???
-Checked all fuses
Anyone know what the hell is going on??? Why wont the fuel pump come on???
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
go to hondata website. They have a artical on how certain injectors will fry your ecu. I would take a closer look at all your fuses. Pull each one out to look, Sometimes you can be fooled
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti eater »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go to hondata website. They have a artical on how certain injectors will fry your ecu. I would take a closer look at all your fuses. Pull each one out to look, Sometimes you can be fooled</TD></TR></TABLE> Ditto that, in fact I would test them with a multimeter.
Unfortunately Honda/Acura use slightly different ways of wiring the PGM-FI Main Relay, [depending on model and year] and I do not have a wiring guide for a 97 Prelude but one thing seems common the ground for fuel pump relay coil is controlled by the ECU/ECM/PTCM, [or whatever they call it in a 97 Prelude] and the injector relay is also in the PGM-FI Main Relay, and they are in some ways tied together, EG: in a 96-98 Civic the injector relays coil is grounded to chassis on one end, [black wire] and the 12V+ is supplied from fuse 13 - 15A, [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box, [yellow/green wire] this fuse also supplies 12V+ for the fuel pump, [12V+ input to fuel pump relay] power for the injectors [input to injector relay] comes from fuse 44 - 15A, [hot at all times] in under hood fuse box, [yellow/black wire] when injector relay is energized, [turning on the ign. to run or start] power is supplied to injectors, [and the ECU] and one side of fuel pump relay coil, with the ECU supplying the ground, {yellow/green wire] to energize the fuel pump relay supplying power to the fuel pump. [also for some reason a yellow/green wire ], the 94-97 Integra is almost the same, diff. wire colors and fuse positions and the 98 Integra also having some wire color diff., G2 teg wiring color and fuse size and positions are diff. again, but the one common thing is fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECU, and there is more then one fuse that can be bad.
Let me ask you this, have you tried to see if you can hear/feel if a relay clicks inside the PGM-FI Main Relay, if you hold the PGM-FI Main Relay and turn on the ign. you should feel 2 clicks very close together, [almost the same time] then one more click, within a few sec., when fuel pump relay turns off after priming the fuel system lines?
Only other way is with a multimeter and a pin-out and/or color code for the PGM-FI Main Relay for a 97 Prelude to find where the problem is.
94
Unfortunately Honda/Acura use slightly different ways of wiring the PGM-FI Main Relay, [depending on model and year] and I do not have a wiring guide for a 97 Prelude but one thing seems common the ground for fuel pump relay coil is controlled by the ECU/ECM/PTCM, [or whatever they call it in a 97 Prelude] and the injector relay is also in the PGM-FI Main Relay, and they are in some ways tied together, EG: in a 96-98 Civic the injector relays coil is grounded to chassis on one end, [black wire] and the 12V+ is supplied from fuse 13 - 15A, [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box, [yellow/green wire] this fuse also supplies 12V+ for the fuel pump, [12V+ input to fuel pump relay] power for the injectors [input to injector relay] comes from fuse 44 - 15A, [hot at all times] in under hood fuse box, [yellow/black wire] when injector relay is energized, [turning on the ign. to run or start] power is supplied to injectors, [and the ECU] and one side of fuel pump relay coil, with the ECU supplying the ground, {yellow/green wire] to energize the fuel pump relay supplying power to the fuel pump. [also for some reason a yellow/green wire ], the 94-97 Integra is almost the same, diff. wire colors and fuse positions and the 98 Integra also having some wire color diff., G2 teg wiring color and fuse size and positions are diff. again, but the one common thing is fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECU, and there is more then one fuse that can be bad.
Let me ask you this, have you tried to see if you can hear/feel if a relay clicks inside the PGM-FI Main Relay, if you hold the PGM-FI Main Relay and turn on the ign. you should feel 2 clicks very close together, [almost the same time] then one more click, within a few sec., when fuel pump relay turns off after priming the fuel system lines?
Only other way is with a multimeter and a pin-out and/or color code for the PGM-FI Main Relay for a 97 Prelude to find where the problem is.
94
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 319
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From: Miramar, Florida, United States
There is only 1 click, unless i couldnt catch the 2nd one. To me theres only 1.
Well if i understand correctly theres 1 click when you turn they key to ON, then one more when the CEL turns off and another one when the fuel pump is done priming. (Last 2 might be in reverse order.) The CEL stays on so no 2nd or 3rd click.
I ran another check today. I hooked up my p28 with my hondata s200b because i finally got my interface cable in (it connects ecu with hondata). I know that on the ON position the little red LED on the hondata box will light up but nothing happens. This means that the ecu is not connecting to hondata correctly, but since its a brand new cable this it out of the question. Is the ecu not getting power anymore? Do you think its one of the grounds that is causing the problem? What am i supposed to be checking for???
Well if i understand correctly theres 1 click when you turn they key to ON, then one more when the CEL turns off and another one when the fuel pump is done priming. (Last 2 might be in reverse order.) The CEL stays on so no 2nd or 3rd click.
I ran another check today. I hooked up my p28 with my hondata s200b because i finally got my interface cable in (it connects ecu with hondata). I know that on the ON position the little red LED on the hondata box will light up but nothing happens. This means that the ecu is not connecting to hondata correctly, but since its a brand new cable this it out of the question. Is the ecu not getting power anymore? Do you think its one of the grounds that is causing the problem? What am i supposed to be checking for???
You are going to need a multimeter and color code for the PGM-FI Main Relay to check what is not happening, it sounds like the fuel injector relay is turning on but not the fuel pump relay, or the fuel pump relay is turning on but the fuel pump is not so that is where I would start, [is there power on the fuel pump relays output] not sure of the color, probably yellow/green, but I would find out first.
94
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Miramar, Florida, United States
eek im just going to have it towed to a shop on thursday and let them figure it out. i'm a noob at using multimeters so testing all the wires will just confuse me more (especially since my multimeter has light 20 different settings). I'll have a friend of mine read this thread tomorrow to see if maybe he can figure it out. if not then straight to the shop. oh man im scared of how much they will charge me...
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You will only need two of the setting, DC volts, [set to 20V] and continuity, [to check for ground. I will see today if I can get a wire guide for your car and walk you through it, it is very easy.
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OK here it is
1-white/green, [injector relays power input] fuse 4 - 15A, [hot at all times] under dash fuse box.
2-yellow/black, [injector relay output] when relay energized, also power for fuel pump relay coil, [internal] and power input to ECM (A11 and A24).
3-blue/red, fuse 2 - 7.5A, [hot when engine cranking] under dash fuse box. power for fuel pump relay coil, when cranking.
4-green/orange, ground input to fuel pump relay coil from ECM, should go to ground when ign. turned on, [fuel pump prime].
5-black/yellow, power to fuel pump when fuel pump relay energized.
6-red/orange, fuse ? - ?A, [hot in run and start] in ? fuse box, injector relay coil, and power input for fuel pump relay, [internal]
7-black, ground for injector relay coil, will show ground at all times.
Will fill in ??? later this afternoon. use you meter and see what you get at the wires at the PGM-FI Main Relay, [found to the left of steering column.
94
1-white/green, [injector relays power input] fuse 4 - 15A, [hot at all times] under dash fuse box.
2-yellow/black, [injector relay output] when relay energized, also power for fuel pump relay coil, [internal] and power input to ECM (A11 and A24).
3-blue/red, fuse 2 - 7.5A, [hot when engine cranking] under dash fuse box. power for fuel pump relay coil, when cranking.
4-green/orange, ground input to fuel pump relay coil from ECM, should go to ground when ign. turned on, [fuel pump prime].
5-black/yellow, power to fuel pump when fuel pump relay energized.
6-red/orange, fuse ? - ?A, [hot in run and start] in ? fuse box, injector relay coil, and power input for fuel pump relay, [internal]
7-black, ground for injector relay coil, will show ground at all times.
Will fill in ??? later this afternoon. use you meter and see what you get at the wires at the PGM-FI Main Relay, [found to the left of steering column.
94
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 319
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From: Miramar, Florida, United States
let me thank you first of all for helping me out. This definitely makes things alot simpler, ill give it a try tonight hopefully ill come back with some results that will lead me to the solution.
thanks again, johnny
thanks again, johnny
YW..
Here is the missing info...
6-red/orange, fuse 23 - 15A, [hot in run and start] inSRS fuse block power for injector coil and power input for fuel pump relay, [internal]
94
Here is the missing info...
6-red/orange, fuse 23 - 15A, [hot in run and start] inSRS fuse block power for injector coil and power input for fuel pump relay, [internal]
94
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 319
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From: Miramar, Florida, United States
nice, had a friend come over who was more familiar with these things and he figured it out. Turns out the main relay wasnt getting 12v power. He added a wire temporarily to give it power.
Strange thing now is that my SRS light is on, stereo doesnt turn on and the power plug for my radar detector doesnt work either. I'll have him take a look at it one more time tonight.
Strange thing now is that my SRS light is on, stereo doesnt turn on and the power plug for my radar detector doesnt work either. I'll have him take a look at it one more time tonight.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ragethemachine86 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice, had a friend come over who was more familiar with these things and he figured it out. Turns out the main relay wasnt getting 12v power. He added a wire temporarily to give it power.</TD></TR></TABLE> No power on what lead at the relay?
It is not a good idea to just add a power wire to a circuit that is not working, it's not working for a reason.
As for the rest, [HU, power plug not working, SRS light on] is probably a blown fuse.
94
It is not a good idea to just add a power wire to a circuit that is not working, it's not working for a reason.
As for the rest, [HU, power plug not working, SRS light on] is probably a blown fuse.
94
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Miramar, Florida, United States
it was the white/green wire i believe. he agreed that it should only be temporary. i'm not sure how he plans get it back to normal though. while he discovered that it wasnt getting power, we still dont know the source of the problem.
Is the fuse, [fuse 4 - 15A, hot at all times, in under dash fuse box] good, is there power at the fuse, [input side]?
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