Ok I know the problem, so I ask one more question!...help
I know the timing is off, my question is can someone give me a step by step on how to take the covers off etc. and how to remove the belt, line up the cams and crank etc. I know what to do, just dont know how to exactly do it, thx.
Its for a B16
Its for a B16
If you think the timing belt jumped a tooth, which is what it sound's like, then what you need to do is this.
You need to remove the top timing cover. Their are several bolt's which hold the cover on. You will need to use a large screwdriver to encourage the cover, because their is a lip on the end of the rocker arm cover, that goe's over it. By Honda standards I guess your supposed to take the rocker cover off, but you don't have to.
Then, you need to put a socket on the bolt on the crankshat and turn it so that the timing mark on the crankshaft pully lines up with the timing mark on the lower plastic cover.
Once you have the crankshaft lined up, you need to look for two marks on the end of the camshat, which should, theoretically, be horizontal, parallel to the head. If your timing belt jumped a tooth, then it will be lop sided, with one mark above the other, relative to horizontal.
Their is an access hole in the lower cover. You need a 14mm socket, to reach the tensioner bolt. If you have to change the belt/camshaft position, you'll have to loosen the tensioner bolt, then apply some force to one side of the belt, pushing the tensioner back. When you have the side of the belt deflected as much as you can, you need to retighter the tensioner belt, temporarily. This will hold the tensioner back, which will allow you to "walk" the timing belt, one way or another, on the camshaft.
After you have moved the belt to the correct tooth, you will need to release the tension on the tensioner bolt, then I usually use the crankshaft to turn the crankshaft counter clockwise, until the belt tension on both sides is a tight as you can get it, then you need to retighten the tensioner belt.
When you are done, I strongly recommend you turn the engine over, at least two turn's, then recheck to make sure your camshaft is in the correct orientation when the crankshaft pully is lined up with the timing mark.
You need to remove the top timing cover. Their are several bolt's which hold the cover on. You will need to use a large screwdriver to encourage the cover, because their is a lip on the end of the rocker arm cover, that goe's over it. By Honda standards I guess your supposed to take the rocker cover off, but you don't have to.
Then, you need to put a socket on the bolt on the crankshat and turn it so that the timing mark on the crankshaft pully lines up with the timing mark on the lower plastic cover.
Once you have the crankshaft lined up, you need to look for two marks on the end of the camshat, which should, theoretically, be horizontal, parallel to the head. If your timing belt jumped a tooth, then it will be lop sided, with one mark above the other, relative to horizontal.
Their is an access hole in the lower cover. You need a 14mm socket, to reach the tensioner bolt. If you have to change the belt/camshaft position, you'll have to loosen the tensioner bolt, then apply some force to one side of the belt, pushing the tensioner back. When you have the side of the belt deflected as much as you can, you need to retighter the tensioner belt, temporarily. This will hold the tensioner back, which will allow you to "walk" the timing belt, one way or another, on the camshaft.
After you have moved the belt to the correct tooth, you will need to release the tension on the tensioner bolt, then I usually use the crankshaft to turn the crankshaft counter clockwise, until the belt tension on both sides is a tight as you can get it, then you need to retighten the tensioner belt.
When you are done, I strongly recommend you turn the engine over, at least two turn's, then recheck to make sure your camshaft is in the correct orientation when the crankshaft pully is lined up with the timing mark.
I would set the motor on cylinder 1 TDC by the timing mark on the crank pully then loosen the valve cover bolts, you dont have to take the valve cover off of the engine but you can pry it open with a flat head screwdriver just enough to get the upper timing belt cover off after you remove the 2 screws that hold it . You do not have to loosen the timing belt tensioner you can just slide the belt off use a 12mm rench and re align the cam to the timing marks then slide the belt back on . then reverse the procedure on the front cover and valve cover and Bingo your done in less then 10 minutes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JayDeeEmm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont see the mark on the crank pully, and I cant loosen the tensioner... any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can use a piece of coat hanger or long skinny screwdriver to find TDC on the crank by finding when the piston is at the top (by feel) through spark plug hole.
Without loosening the tensioner you're screwed.
You can use a piece of coat hanger or long skinny screwdriver to find TDC on the crank by finding when the piston is at the top (by feel) through spark plug hole.
Without loosening the tensioner you're screwed.
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On the crankshaft pully, you don't need to take it off, unless your replacing the timing belt.
On finding the mark, if you use a coat hanger, you need to remove the spark plug from thte #1 cylinder, which is on the end towards the camshaft belt. Straighten the wire out, but leave a hook or hard bend, in one end, so it won't fall down a hole. Put the straight end down the hole and then turn the crankshaft until the maximum amount of wire is sticking out of the spark plug hole. When the piston starts to go back down and the wire starts to go back in, you've gone to far. TDC is where the maximum amount of wire is showing. I'd use a file to put a slight nick in your crankshaft, right where the timing indicator is on the timing cover, so you can find it next time.
On the tensioner, you need a 14mm socket, a short extension and then a short piece of 1 1/2" steel pipe, about a foot or so long. Put the pipe over the socket handle to make it longer, then turn "Lefty Loosey", looking at the front of the bolt. You just need to get it free.
On finding the mark, if you use a coat hanger, you need to remove the spark plug from thte #1 cylinder, which is on the end towards the camshaft belt. Straighten the wire out, but leave a hook or hard bend, in one end, so it won't fall down a hole. Put the straight end down the hole and then turn the crankshaft until the maximum amount of wire is sticking out of the spark plug hole. When the piston starts to go back down and the wire starts to go back in, you've gone to far. TDC is where the maximum amount of wire is showing. I'd use a file to put a slight nick in your crankshaft, right where the timing indicator is on the timing cover, so you can find it next time.
On the tensioner, you need a 14mm socket, a short extension and then a short piece of 1 1/2" steel pipe, about a foot or so long. Put the pipe over the socket handle to make it longer, then turn "Lefty Loosey", looking at the front of the bolt. You just need to get it free.
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