Hey,

What would be the easiest and most reliable way to get an EF hatch into the 14's in the 1/4 mile? Would it be possible to do if I got full bolt ons and tuning? If not, where would that put me?

Thanks!

 

Do you have a budget

 

easiest and most reliable, b16 swap. Extremely easy and with basic bolt ons and some tuning should get you near mid 14s.

 

Okay, thanks. I was kind of hoping that I would be able to avoid a swap as I don't have much automotive experience and have never done an engine swap. They seem like quite a large job. Anyways, compared to the other options (FI?), would this be easier and more cost effective? Also, what about something like a B18 or H22 swap? I'm thinking if I'm going to do a swap I might as well go all out. Or is a B16 swap much easier to do? After I buy the car, I probably have around a $2-3K budget but I'm going in baby steps so further down the road I'll have more money.

Thanks.

 

Swaps aren't hard. Probably the easiest way to the 14's

Is it an Si, or a DX, or an STD???

This matters a lot. If it's an Si, it would be worth turbo-charging, or supercharging. Which would also get you into the 14's pretty easily.

 

Don't have the car at the moment, but if thats the reason, I'll definately go for the Si. Quick question, what do you guys think will yield the best results in relation to how hard it is to set up properly: FI, excluding nitrous, or an engine swap? When I say the best performance in relation to how hard it is, I mean that although something may be easier, another option might only be a little bit harder and yield much better results. So...FI or swap?

Thanks.

 

nitrous would be the easyest-cheapest way to do it but boost is always fun.... swaps are cool if you can get them cheap im not down to pay 2500 for a b16 and still get smoked by boosted singles

 

as said NOS probably the easiest but not reliable for your stock motor way...best way is to do what most people said...b16a swap...Its not super hard but theres a lil thinking involved...lots of info on this website to help you thorugh the b swap...tryin bolt ons to a d series or zc is just wasting your time and money imo...If you wanna beat stock civics build a D series...If you wanna beat mustang gt and lt1 and some old school muscle build a b series.

 

The easiest way definitly the turbo or the NOS.

 

Okay, thanks. My only concern with turboing it is that I've heard to setup and tune a turbo properly its quite heard. Not nearly as easy as I've heard superchargers are.

 

It depends when you want your power, turbo's spool and then launch you, superchargers are just belt driven & its almost instant power, whereas nitrous is known as horsepower in a bottle but on stock internals that may be a bad way to go. My Suggestion: build your car how you want, take some advice but build your own car, as long as you like it & respect it, I respect you................

 

i would just do a b16 swap they are only like 1600 shipped to u on hmotorsonline.com. and with a few bolt ons and tuning and practice driving u can get a low 14 sec pass. and with boost u will hit high 12s or low 13s all day. with a good tune.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IcebergMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, thanks. I was kind of hoping that I would be able to avoid a swap as I don't have much automotive experience and have never done an engine swap. They seem like quite a large job. Anyways, compared to the other options (FI?), would this be easier and more cost effective? Also, what about something like a B18 or H22 swap? I'm thinking if I'm going to do a swap I might as well go all out. Or is a B16 swap much easier to do? After I buy the car, I probably have around a $2-3K budget but I'm going in baby steps so further down the road I'll have more money.

Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A swap is probably the easiest thing you can do to a car. It is MUCH easier to do a swap than it is to build a stock motor. Swaps are also a reliable way to go. Yes, a boosted D may be faster than a bone-stock B-series. But a boosted D is basically a ticking time bomb. And although you can get another motor cheap, you might not break down in the most convenient place. This is something to consider on a daily driven car.

 

If you just want reliable 14's and are on a budget I would go with a bolt on d16z6. you could do the swap and have I/H/E for ~$1300-1500.

 

if all you want is 14's my suggestion would be...

get an si base to start off in

get like a d16z6, d15b vtec or a zc swap for less than a grand. piece together a turbo kit, (i wouldnt buy a turbo kit, too f'n expensive) get some sort of ems (engine management system) like hondata, or get a chipped ecu with uberdata, crome etc, get it tuned and boost it.

that setup alone will be less expensive than putting in a stock b16

or hell, u could even skip the turbo and get a nitrous setup going, less expensive than a turbo in the beggining, basically instant horsepower, but in the long run its more expensive because of the filling up the bottle expense

but if you want more than 14's, go b series

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wfocrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you just want reliable 14's and are on a budget I would go with a bolt on d16z6. you could do the swap and have I/H/E for ~$1300-1500.</TD></TR></TABLE>

didnt know any d series i/h/e could touch 14's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bjorn20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

didnt know any d series i/h/e could touch 14's</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe in a gutted HF lol

 

The more and more I read about it, it does seem like the engine swap is the way to go. Seem like a lot less things to go wrong once I get it all together. So the B16 would be the way to go? How much should I expect to pay for a nice one? Also, after the swap, what did you say I'd need? Bolt ons and I'd be in the 14's?

Thanks.

 

since your in cali do a swap, you can get it bar'd and be street legal. b18 would probably be easier to do since parts are everywhere and you dont have to convert to obd1 for bar. no wireing needed if you get an si. unless you wanna go turbo then youd have to run a greddy kit or one of those along the line, which will probably cost more then the swap. look around, one of my friends found a complete obd0 b16 swap for 1400 on craigslist, came with all the tune-up parts too...new water pump, timing belt, spark plugs, and some other things

i wouldnt consider it reliable to go turbo on a 200k motor, then you also have to pay to get it tuned. unless you swap a newer motor which defeats the whole point of the turbo route. swapping a non-vtec d series is the same as a b series, and same for vtec.

swaps are easy...just take it step by step. drain fluids, take out axles and shiftlinkage, disconnect radiater/heater/vacum hoses, unplug engine harness, unbolt mounts and take motor out(probably missing a couple things so dont this word for word, that and you dont have to go in that order). swap the harness over to the new motor and do everything in reverse but use new mount and linkage. search and youll learn things to make the swap easier too (ie axle nut, ball joint, "bitch pin")

but seriously i suggest you get a manual and read it thoroughly, then search ht and the web, and ask around. dont get me wrong, but if you think doing a swap is so much harder then properly going turbo and tuning, then your already in over your head.

 

if u are gonna do a b16 swap then i would order it from hmotorsonline.com. i dont like buying from individuals online U DONT KNOW WHAT U ARE GETTING. and i would do a b16 swap if u can drive a stock b16 will run mid-high 14s. my other .02cents

 

swap in a d16z6 and get some slicks... and depending on your driving skill should land you around 13s and 14s....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92integra_gs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">swap in a d16z6 and get some slicks... and depending on your driving skill should land you around 13s and 14s.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not quite...More like high 14's low 15's.

I had a zc vtec in a 90 Si hatch, gutted interior, i/h/e, and it was not a 14 second car =P

 

Okay, thanks guys. It really seems like the best option is to go for a B16 swap. Quick question, which B16 would you recommend? Also, just out of curiosity, why the B16? Is it an easier swap than say, the B18?

Thanks.

 

It's really gonna depend a lot on your car's weight as well. I run a 1990 CRX Si with AC and all of my interior. She's heavy, with all my mods (and me in it) I'm weighing in at 2548lbs. With my LHT supercharged ITR engine and 9 lbs of boost my best time was a 13.2 @109mph. So with that said weight is HUGE!! Is your car be a stripped HF or a Si loaded down like mine??

 

The most reliable, easy, room for upgrade way would be swapping in a b16 hands down. The cheapest way would probably be doing a "junk yard" turbo set up which could probably even get you into the 13's... which in my opinion are more of a worthy goal. Stock Civics run in the 14's these days.

 

In my standard EF8 (SiR) I managed 15.42 @ 90mph with a 2.5 60'.

That was on your everyday economy tires and on a winter track. We've got two more meets left in the winter season so I might try and lower my 60', I was leaving the line at 4500rpm foot flat to the floor with quiet a bit of wheelspin so maybe 3500rpm will do the trick