GET OUT YOUR CHECK BOOK!!!

Skunk 2 recommends that when installing an intake manifold you also install a larger throttle body,
fuel pressure regulator,
cold air intake,
full exhaust,
high performance cam,
adjustable cam gear(s),
and ECU upgrade (they claim this is only for OBD II vehicles)
don't let the price tag fool you, it's more to meets the eye, i'm still trying to get mine to work

P.S. don't get a skunk 2 if you have an 88-91 civic/crx si (d16a6) because the intake will hit the firewall when under acceleration, basically, the entire car will shake horribly unless you knock the firewall back an inch in the right spot.

also: for 88-91 civic/crx si you will also need a fuel rain from a 92-95 civic
92-95 civic needs a 5/16" T-fitting and 13" long 1/8th" vacuum hose
96-00 civic needs 7" long 5/16th" vacuum hose and plug (9mm x 1.25mm) for IAT sensor fitting
that's all the

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austincrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P.S. don't get a skunk 2 if you have an 88-91 civic/crx si (d16a6) because the intake will hit the firewall when under acceleration, basically, the entire car will shake horribly unless you knock the firewall back an inch in the right spot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You need to get betta motor mounts dude!

 

Of course you need a TB, intake, exhaust, and possibly a cam to make power with an aftermarket IM. That's a given.

As for the rest of the thread, yeah, skunk2 sucks. When will people learn that this popular brand sucks? How many more of their products must fail upon introduction until people finally catch on? I will never buy any of their ****.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Of course you need a TB, intake, exhaust, and possibly a cam to make power with an aftermarket IM. That's a given.

As for the rest of the thread, yeah, skunk2 sucks. When will people learn that this popular brand sucks? How many more of their products must fail upon introduction until people finally catch on? I will never buy any of their ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same day ppl find out DC headers are crap.

pour enough $$ into advertising it doesn't matter ppl still buy it.

I have some of the old school skunk2 coilovers very happy with them.

Skunk2 really went down the drain, omni was a let down. DC blows. AEM is a joke. Most all big name import stuff sucks, but good side alot of tuners go to the lil shops that make better parts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ***-assin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Same day ppl find out DC headers are crap.

pour enough $$ into advertising it doesn't matter ppl still buy it.

I have some of the old school skunk2 coilovers very happy with them.

Skunk2 really went down the drain, omni was a let down. DC blows. AEM is a joke. Most all big name import stuff sucks, but good side alot of tuners go to the lil shops that make better parts </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats how it works down here to man

 

they make good cams

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austincrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">list of what you need to make your skunk 2 actually add power!

GET OUT YOUR CHECK BOOK!!!

Skunk 2 recommends that when installing an intake manifold you also install a larger throttle body,
fuel pressure regulator,
cold air intake,
full exhaust,
high performance cam,
adjustable cam gear(s),
and ECU upgrade (they claim this is only for OBD II vehicles)
don't let the price tag fool you, it's more to meets the eye, i'm still trying to get mine to work</TD></TR></TABLE>
No **** Sherlock, we could have told you all of this before you bought it. The same goes for most other aftermarket intake manifolds. What kind of idiot would buy just an intake manifold for an otherwise stock engine?

ECU tuning (on a dynamometer) is necessary for all vehicles when changing major parts such as the cam and/or the manifold. That's also a given. The thing with OBD-2 ECUs (other than K-series) is that they cannot be tuned with anything other than a crappy AFC, so an OBD-1 conversion is necessary to allow programmable ECU options.

 

I like their shifters

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ***-assin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Same day ppl find out DC headers are crap.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I have a DC sports header 1 year old. Ceramic coating is already coming off and it's rusting. This is on a car that is not driven during the winter months.

 

Pretty much any header with ceramic coating will give you problems.

I have a DC SS header that I inherited. I really like it. I know I have to be wary of scraping it, and I had to move the O2 sensor wiring, but I feel like it's a great header. Their other products I can't speak for, although their chassis braces are just pure bling. Of course I would never have paid the brand new price for this header. I got lucky on a hookup.

Everything Skunk2 has released has had to be revised. AEM too. They're EMSs are the **** though, but the EMS part of their company is practically a whole other company, except for some of their biases against autos. These guys beat the other companies to the punch, they have the biggest ad campaigns, and they're just established. But with some research you can find better products.

Stop being a sheep and asking HT or Super Street what you should buy.

 

well, it isn't really stock, but it doesn't have <U></U>all <U></U> the modifications listed, only half, you really just need the t-body, cam, and fuel press. reg. for a crx, i would think

 

i know this thread is about skunk2's intake manifold and stuff but i heard something about dc headers and how there crap. what company sells good headers???

 

Megan Racing is pretty darn good in IMO

 

h22 throttlebody is perfect for skunk2 mani, atleast for d16z6 skunk2 mani.

the throttlebody is literally a **** hair smaller in diameter than the im. as good as perfect, if you wanna play with dremel tools at that time, thats up to you

 

I've never head this DC headers are crap business before. Megan headers are nice, expecially for the money.

 

ok thank you QuarterMileMAster and fireant

 

Megan racing is a good low budget header, i'd consider it on par with DC and it's way cheaper.

There are better headers out there, but you'll need a lot more money to get them. Megan is good for what 95% of the people are doing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've never head this DC headers are crap business before. Megan headers are nice, expecially for the money.</TD></TR></TABLE>me neither really, mine performs pretty well and I love it(no base for comparison). It just rusted a lot faster than I thought it would. Every time I see a picture of someones car and they have one, it looks all nice and new. Mine has rusted to **** in a year. I guess that doesn't say much though, because I think Illinois is arguably one of the worst climates for cars in the U.S.

 

yeah megan racing and dc sport headers are fine for mild motors..But once you get into the motor,,high compression,cams,valvetrain,large intake manifold and throttle body,remapped ecu,etc,etc..then you'll need a better header to make that power......Ive found one by spark racing its called a tri-y header or something like that..looks like a good design and isnt really that pricey considering what it is

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austincrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GET OUT YOUR CHECK BOOK!!!

Skunk 2 recommends that when installing an intake manifold you also install a larger throttle body,
fuel pressure regulator,
cold air intake,
full exhaust,
high performance cam,
adjustable cam gear(s),
and ECU upgrade (they claim this is only for OBD II vehicles)
don't let the price tag fool you, it's more to meets the eye, i'm still trying to get mine to work
..........................................


well, it isn't really stock, but it doesn't have all the modifications listed, only half, you really just need the t-body, cam, and fuel press. reg. for a crx, i would think


</TD></TR></TABLE>

So.... the only things that you listed that you didn't list as having is an intake, exhaust, and tuning. Who the hell buys a damn im without i/h/e????? As for the tuning, you need that due to the cams, not the im. HT amazes me more and more everyday....

As for DC, AEM, Skunk, etc. you people are idiots. These aren't companies designing products for absolute power. They make quality components that are a mix between performance, cost, & legality. If you want full out performance, buy a header from ANR, Bisimoto, etc. If you want something cheaper, buy a megan or some ebay special. When as much engineering goes into a product as the above companies put into them, cost goes up. When you're a company producing knockoffs (megan, etc.) then you don't have the R&D costs that factor in to the final cost.

 

i don't know about you guys, but i have some ceramic dc headers on my car and they are no problem, fit perfectly, no rust, been on there for years, not kidding!!!

 

and as for the parts i don't have on the car, it's cams, upgraded fuel system, and adjustable cam gears

 

BTW, I did a writeup some time ago comparing Megan & DC headers for D16s:

http://www.hondaworkshop.com/dc-vs-megan/

You get a good idea of the difference between the two.

If you live in the rust belt, then Megan's stainless will be an even better value.

 

ok, so this is what i can figure out, the skunk 2 intake manifold is so much larger than stock that the stock t-body (assuming you still have it) doesn't allow enough air to properly fill the manifold's plenum and distribute the air well enough to the cylinders, and on top of that, your stock cam (if you still have that too) doesn't open the intake valves for long enough to allow enough air in the chamber to maximize performance. and of course once you have all these things, you will need to upgrade your fuel system in some way, and the most cost effective way would probably be the pressure regulator, because the injectors only open for a certain amount of time, that cannot be lengthened without gobs of money, if you up the pressure, it will force more fuel through the injectors in the same amount of time, and if you find other ways to add even more air to the mixture, as any idiot should know, keep adding fuel. I guess if you really just think about it, it all comes to you, but maybe after a while. i would say, for the money, just get a cam, if you just want a little more power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austincrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't know about you guys, but i have some ceramic dc headers on my car and they are no problem, fit perfectly, no rust, been on there for years, not kidding!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>yeah I know that's why I'm pissed mine is all rusted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

As for the rest of the thread, yeah, skunk2 sucks. When will people learn that this popular brand sucks? How many more of their products must fail upon introduction until people finally catch on? I will never buy any of their ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes somebody who feels the way i do.