okay ive searched but everything i found just went to a dead end. i bought some r134 parts to convert my r12 system but then i decided to diagnose my r12 system. anyhow the clutch on the compressor spins but stops every now and then. theres refrigerant in the lines. when the ac blows it blows warm not cold. could this just mean im low on refg? that cause the clutch to stop spinning at times? and reason why it dosent blow cold? also ne idea why air wont blow out the center vents?

 

You can get a pressure gauge that tells you what's in the system

 

yeah but im just asking. for possible solutions i dont plan on fixing the problem today just was tinkering around and wanted some info

 

You're best bet is to have it vacuum tested for leaks in the system
before you do anything else.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're best bet is to have it vacuum tested for leaks in the system
before you do anything else.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

Do it proper and dont recharge/discharge your system, take it to a shop that can do it and test it. The gas used isnt that all environmentally friendly.

In HVAC systems if the compressor is cycling on/off it usually means that it cycles on, checks for pressure then cycles off because of the low pressure switch is triggered. Thats for an HVAC system, cars may be different but I would think they would be very similar due to the regulations that deal with the gasses used in AC/HVAC. I would say start with vaccum testing your system at a shop.. if its not that and they verify that your system holds pressure then it might be your compressor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chuckles99SH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

x2

Do it proper and dont recharge/discharge your system, take it to a shop that can do it and test it. The gas used isnt that all environmentally friendly.

In HVAC systems if the compressor is cycling on/off it usually means that it cycles on, checks for pressure then cycles off because of the low pressure switch is triggered. Thats for an HVAC system, cars may be different but I would think they would be very similar due to the regulations that deal with the gasses used in AC/HVAC. I would say start with vaccum testing your system at a shop.. if its not that and they verify that your system holds pressure then it might be your compressor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, this is something that should be done with the proper machine. Considering its best to pull 30lb of vacuum for at least 15 minutes to check for leaks, and a r12 system is much better even though the refrigerent is so much more expensive.

He also has a good point on the compressor, when it does switch on there isnt enough refrigerant to squeeze through the oriface so its not going to have any pressure and not make anything cool. The compressor could be just fine, you might just need a recharge.

 

check your lines.. it might have too much pressure in it.. i have had the same problem with my high pressure line..the low pressure line had the right amount of freon as opposed to the high side which had way too much pressure in it which in turn triggered the switch to turn on and off frequently...

 

What's the problem if air only blows cold from one vent (the one on the driver's door), cool from the middle-left vent, warm from the middle right vent, and hot from the passenger door vent?

 

Anyone?

 

how logn is clutch engaging and dissengaging, if im not mistakenthe clutch cyling is like on 60 second then off like 10-15second then on for anothe rminute and so on if the engagment is off or like way fucked up check its voltage from power, use a jumper wire to apply power and ground to the pos/neg terminals on the clutch and if it cycles normally then your clutch is fine and you have a problem in the wiring.