I want to drop a D16 motor in my EK hatch. My goals are mid 13s or lower. I really dont know anything about F.I, what is needed for a good setup. I have that D16y8 blocks have really strong sleeves and thicker rods than Bmotors, true?

D16 are pretty cheap, 300-500 for a full swap. can someone point in the right direction of what i should be reseaching and etc.. my plan was buy a semi full swap and replace things like the water pump, belts , any thing else ?

I wanted to do all the "pre-work" first. like get the all my gauges, boost control , alarm , setup my fuel. bigger exhaust before install the turbo whats a stuff is needed and wat is best?
-
-Whats a good exhaust thats loud? NA N1 with 2.5 piping?
-any oem upgrades, like oil pumps, TB, heads?

Modified by BLUE EH3 at 2:12 AM 8/15/2006


Modified by BLUE EH3 at 2:15 AM 8/15/2006


Modified by BLUE EH3 at 2:37 AM 8/15/2006

 

Z6 oil pump and SEARCH.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Z6 oil pump and SEARCH.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It doesn't fit a Y8.

 

Z6 oil pump DOES fit a Y8, you would just need the Z6 oil pan.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanEJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It doesn't fit a Y8.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How much money are you willing to place on that

 

That still leaves this guy with a D16 he obviously isn't capable of tuning himself, that 98% of the tuenarboiz he takes it to are going to feed 7-10 degrees too much ignition timing to and blow up.

Netsearching isn't going to help him, he'll run across a bunch of contradictory noise *if* he ever runs across the D16Y ignition timing issue at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That still leaves this guy with a D16 he obviously isn't capable of tuning himself, that 98% of the tuenarboiz he takes it to are going to feed 7-10 degrees too much ignition timing to and blow up.

Netsearching isn't going to help him, he'll run across a bunch of contradictory noise *if* he ever runs across the D16Y ignition timing issue at all.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed, it took me almost 3yrs of searching and i haven't even turboed yet... to understand the issues with D16y and why their blowing headgaskets. The few that understand why are reluctant to share their bins. Basically keep searching and learn everything you can for yourself. Running a z6 bin and taking extra timing out in boost won't solve anything, especially since z6's run more timing across the board. So far on honda-tech i've seen plenty of "built" setups but a lot of d-series members don't like getting dyno tuned for some reason.

Also, don't expect members to feed you the information needed, do a little search and find out what's best for you. There's plenty of people you can mirror your setup off of. Also, while searching don't believe everything you read.

 

I think alot of d-series members dont like to dyno tune because its sad when ur tune and eng management cost more than a core replacement motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F20Cteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Z6 oil pump DOES fit a Y8, you would just need the Z6 oil pan.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How much money are you willing to place on that </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well that's new to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GiNuWiNe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The few that understand why are reluctant to share their bins. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've posted mine. Check xeno's .bin repository.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think alot of d-series members dont like to dyno tune because its sad when ur tune and eng management cost more than a core replacement motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Last I knew, Honduh cars come equipped with Honduh ECUs, and every last single D-guru I'd trust off the top of my head would cost as much or a little less than a D-series after dyno time.

Not that dyno tuning is remotely required. I've mentioned the correllation in CTS and ignition timing in small bore engines more than once, not that I'd entirely trust it, and I know of two other people who came to the exact same timing figures (within a degree!) as I did + we all did it independently. There's enough information out there for the stock block D boys to empirically deduce what to do with a good margin of safety... the process begins with shutting out what everyone who hasn't done it says.

 

J.Davis i'm pretty sure you've posted your bin, your one of the few who do share. Anyways, looks like i'll be moving on to a B-series sooner then i thought, if this deal goes through.

 

you dont need a z6 oil pump at all...just work off of the oil pump mods posted on endyne's website and you will be golden...

as far as the d16y timing issues...i used a y8 block and a z6 head...problem solved. i wouldnt touch a y8 head if it was given to me...

to the original poster...just read and reasearch....homemadeturbo.com is the best place to lurk if you plan on a DIY kit... this really isnt rocket science and turbo d's are tons of fun

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've posted mine. Check xeno's .bin repository.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Xeno?

 

xenocron.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eastbay92cx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">xenocron.com</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sweet, is it the steve stock MAP final3.bin?

 

If you need D series parts let me know. Parting out my 95 D16Z6 and turbo setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast2camciv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as far as the d16y timing issues...i used a y8 block and a z6 head...problem solved. i wouldnt touch a y8 head if it was given to me...</TD></TR></TABLE>

At this point, I see no difference between the heads that would make me choose between them except maybe the Y8's recessed divider = donkey *****. They still make good power... look at any one of a dozen turbo D's. Look at builthatch's DIY NA badness (that's a ************ who would do a snail justice)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast2camciv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
to the original poster...just read and reasearch....homemadeturbo.com is the best place to lurk if you plan on a DIY kit... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha. I notice you distinctly did not say "post," lol. If you insist on posting, apologise profusely for your extreme n00bness and post ****. Post a lot of ****. Don't stop posting **** until you get a few hundred posts under your belt. You'll probably have a few guys give you hell because it's a fraternity madhouse type place where hazing is expected, but that should cut through most of the BS.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanEJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sweet, is it the steve stock MAP final3.bin? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, and I have a 2.5 bar tune where I spliced over his maps and smoothed the AFRs that I've been meaning to post... will do that right now. We never took the car over 13 psi as she started running out of fuel pump, so it's still shy of the 300 mark, but... soon.

PS - expect cold startup problems off of those .bins. You'll have to pat the gas lightly for the first 7-8 seconds of operation. I think I wrecked the startup trims under Advanced Tables due to insomnia. Replacing stock-ish values should clear things up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah, and I have a 2.5 bar tune where I spliced over his maps and smoothed the AFRs that I've been meaning to post... will do that right now. We never took the car over 13 psi as she started running out of fuel pump, so it's still shy of the 300 mark, but... soon.

PS - expect cold startup problems off of those .bins. You'll have to pat the gas lightly for the first 7-8 seconds of operation. I think I wrecked the startup trims under Advanced Tables due to insomnia. Replacing stock-ish values should clear things up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Post it up mang.

 

I had within five minutes of making that post.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast2camciv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as far as the d16y timing issues...i used a y8 block and a z6 head...problem solved. i wouldnt touch a y8 head if it was given to me... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a Y7 block and Z6 head. No timing issues.
In fact, my tuner didnt advance or retard the timing when we dyno tuned. Just used the default Crome Pro step-retard numbers.

 

Anyone want to explain what the timing issue is? I'm turboing a Y8 (head and block) as a DD and don't want to have any "blowing HG issues." Needless to say, after a years worth of research this is the first time I've come across this. Looking for ~200whp on a stock block for now, then will build and go for 300+.

This here would be my only engine, so any info is appreciated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SovXietday &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone want to explain what the timing issue is? I'm turboing a Y8 (head and block) as a DD and don't want to have any "blowing HG issues." Needless to say, after a years worth of research this is the first time I've come across this. Looking for ~200whp on a stock block for now, then will build and go for 300+.

This here would be my only engine, so any info is appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Take a look at the bin we've been talking about for the last 10 posts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

At this point, I see no difference between the heads that would make me choose between them except maybe the Y8's recessed divider = donkey *****. They still make good power... look at any one of a dozen turbo D's. Look at builthatch's DIY NA badness (that's a ************ who would do a snail justice)

Haha. I notice you distinctly did not say "post," lol. If you insist on posting, apologise profusely for your extreme n00bness and post ****. Post a lot of ****. Don't stop posting **** until you get a few hundred posts under your belt. You'll probably have a few guys give you hell because it's a fraternity madhouse type place where hazing is expected, but that should cut through most of the BS.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha i fully agree with you on the **** thing lol!! pics of your wife/girlfriend get you through lots of doors at HMT lmao!

my thing with the y8 head is the stupid 4 degree's...its in the cam and the dizzy. i have a fully p&p y8 head in my garage...i could never get the cam timed properly nor could i get timing set right either...everytime i got everything lined up...the car ran like ****...it allways seemed like it needed to be advanced or retarded in order to run as it should (going old school and listening to the engine, and watching the plugs) i fucked around with that y8 head for so long it was silly...went to the z6 head and dizzy....ZERO problems ever since...life is so much easier with a z6 head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanEJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take a look at the bin we've been talking about for the last 10 posts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I can't see it.

So basically it runs 4 degrees too far advanced? Tuning is the one thing I haven't ventured into yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SovXietday &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So basically it runs 4 degrees too far advanced? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Retarded. 4.3 degrees or somesuch, translates into 9.7 degrees crank timing when you go to set the ignition timing. It's pretty easy, if you're Joey, to set cam timing by positioning the distributor and fiddling cam gear until timing mark lines up with a timing light. I am an Internet Superstar for no other reason than I have a solid grasp on the ******* obvious.

That's only half the Y8 timing issue... the other half is the Y heads like zilch for ignition timing, and you feed them more they just ping your headgasket and bottom end to death. Everyone insists on treating them like Z6, and then badmouths the engine when it dies instead of taking a moment to ask themselves what they did wrong.