H-T search not so fruitful.
I called a couple shops and they said average corner balancing usually takes 2 hours at $65 per hour so $130 is the ballpark figure, but I still may just do it myself with a ruler.

After installing Groundcontrol coilovers I did a very quick, half-assed job at adjusting the coilover height with the wheel-well-finger-gap method. Problem was, there's no level ground where I can work for miles around me. Anyways, once I find some flat earth to adjust my coilovers:
1) What reference point should I use on my car to measure? I was thinking of just measuring the distance from the 4 side jack points (inboard of each wheel well) to the ground. If I used any reference point fore of the front wheels or aft of the rear, those wouldn't be at the same height front to rear, so I wouldn't be able to tell if one end is higher relative to the other end.
2) With my equivalent in weight in the front seat, should I get left/right front/rear heights equal, or is having one end (front or rear) higher generally preferable in a FD car?
3) For you that have done corner balancing with just a ruler, what kind of accuracy were you able to get? +/- 1/4 inch or what?
Ummm that's about it. Of course there is no one way to go about this, I'm just looking for some general guidelines. Thanks.

 

It's all here:
http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com/cornerweight.html

 

Are you talking about corner-weighting or just getting your ride height equal? ... 'cause they're two different things. Corner-weighting isn't possible without scales.

 

Well I do know they're two separate things, but I think they do complement/relate to each other. I recall Jack saying something like he adjusted his coilovers with a ruler, and later put in to the scales to find he got within 18 lbs...

 

Ah, yes, I've been looking for that link for ages. Thank you very much!

 

i can get your car cornerweighted for 150.00 at the shop i help out ,

schaeffers auto care and gtr motorsports
301-854-6252 ben - tell him you know Jamie

or let me know and I can arrange it depending on his schedule

 

fender heights are no good..
you should measure frame rail heights
pick a spot on the chassis that is easy to measure and locate ... and mark it
always use this point for height measurements
you need a good solid place to start.

the fronts should be close to equal.. and the rear should be close to equal..

then find someone with scales.

dont forget to do an alginment when you have all the heights/corner weights set.

 

Thanks y'all. I'll be pulling the suspension and putting in polyurethane bushings this weekend so a performance alignment is coming right yup, maybe I'll even hit some scales before that.

 

Here's a very trick home-brew way of corner balancing your car that I learned from an old F2000 driver.

For this example let's balance the two front corners. Find a flat piece of pavement. Disconnect the sway bar endlinks. Put on your race tires and pump them up to "hot" temperatures. Fill up your tank to half of race level. Go to the back and find the centerline of the car. You can do this my measuring the distance between the two LCA bolts that mount to the subframe. Accuracy is important so take your time and double check. Mark the centerline. (I know on the Teg, the rear tow hook is directly in the center of the car, so you can use this point.)

Jack up the rear of the car (the higher the better) to distribute the weight on the two front tires. Place a jack under the centerline. When placing the jack, place something (eg. a socket) between the jack and the car thereby pivoting the rear of the car on this one spot. What you end up with is a triangle with the jack acting as a fulcrum distributing the weight onto the front tires.

Pop the hood and place a straight tube across the top of the strut towers and place a carpenter's level on the center of the tube. Obviously, you see where this is going. The level will show which corner is more heavily loaded. From hear you can adjust your ride height until the level is, well, level.