timing belt losing teeth after 10k miles
I am on my 2nd timing belt, on a '98 b18c5/JRSC. I noticed a few teeth missing on the original timing belt after 30k miles. I replaced it with a new one from acura, and now after only 10k, its missing a few teeth, and all the rest of the teeth are slightly torn, as if they are about to be stripped off as well. I am currently running STR cam gears, although the first timing belt had this problem while running stock cam gears. I have the cover off, for easy belt inspection, and it is not loose or flapping around. Could it be too tight? This would not explain the first belt failing though. Has anyone ever seen this problem? I dont want to have to replace my timing belt every 10k.
I have not seen belts fail at 10k, ever. You might want to check to see that your water pump and timing belt tensioner turn freely with the timing belt off. Check to see that it does not take excessive force to turn the cams as well. Something has got to be putting undue strain on your timing belt to cause it to fail so soon.
So did you find out why you are tearing up timing belts fast? Anyway I think I agree that you prolly need to loosen the tensioner pulley just a little bit since it might be a little too tight, there should be an inch of deflection on the belt when pressing it on the center of the belt/ between pullies. Another reason be is that there might be debries that are lunged in there when you replaced it the timing belt, make sure that there are no foriegn objects in the lower part of the timing belt covers.
good luck
Sione
good luck
Sione
there should be an inch of deflection on the belt when pressing it on the center of the belt/ between pullies.
yea it should be on too tight. but not loose like an "inch" of deflection, how bout you save money and buy a manual for your motor. its only 20 bucks, better than spending 75$ on a timing belt every 10k miles....
C'mon guy he does have a point, you could give him credit for that right. Anyway what he meant was deflection from the pulley O-------I---------O pulley is press it away from you is half and pull it towards you is another half which makes it an inch of deflection. Oh and for the other guy that said it should be tight,(YOUR WRONG) timing belt will scar easily with wear.
adrian
[Modified by trujdm97itr, 8:28 AM 4/26/2002]
adrian
[Modified by trujdm97itr, 8:28 AM 4/26/2002]
yea it should be on too tight. but not loose like an "inch" of deflection, how bout you save money and buy a manual for your motor. its only 20 bucks, better than spending 75$ on a timing belt every 10k miles....
the 25$ manuals are peices of **** (chiltons, haynes) http://www.helminc.com - the bible. best 75$ ever spent.
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I remember when I did my T-Belt job back @ 90k (stock D16Y7), considering I had the Helms by my side for reference, I do remember that there was a tension spec, but you needed that special tool to measure it....and I didn't have it.
Following the Helms instructions, it automatically sets the tension needed when the steps were performed in order. And the 1" of deflection, I would say is more like being able to TWIST the T-Belt (in the longest section, from the cam sprocket down to the crank pulley) about 90dgr eithie way (if that makes sense). If that equated to 1" deflection, then so be it....but I've had it running fine for over 75k miles now with no noticable wear on the teeth when performering valve adjustments and no noticeable signs of 'black rubber' from the T-Belt.
At the same time, I replaced the tensioner set, water pump, coolant, U/L radiator hoses (and of course coolant) and the thermostat.....things were apart, easy to get to, why not get it replaced it when it was easy, ya' know.
But as far as your timing belt being torn up like it is...sounds like too much tension, but if that were the case, wouldn't you see/hear some screeaching from the bearings on startup? What if the cam sprocket, water pump, tensionset set and pulley are not exactly 'lined' up...ever take a look to see if anything is wobbling arround down there?
But to the end, if the the timing belt was too tight, visual inspection of the #1 main bearing will tell you the story (as would #5, right?.....since the crank is now off horizontal, 1 and 5 would takt the worst beating....thoguht I read that somewhere).
Following the Helms instructions, it automatically sets the tension needed when the steps were performed in order. And the 1" of deflection, I would say is more like being able to TWIST the T-Belt (in the longest section, from the cam sprocket down to the crank pulley) about 90dgr eithie way (if that makes sense). If that equated to 1" deflection, then so be it....but I've had it running fine for over 75k miles now with no noticable wear on the teeth when performering valve adjustments and no noticeable signs of 'black rubber' from the T-Belt.
At the same time, I replaced the tensioner set, water pump, coolant, U/L radiator hoses (and of course coolant) and the thermostat.....things were apart, easy to get to, why not get it replaced it when it was easy, ya' know.
But as far as your timing belt being torn up like it is...sounds like too much tension, but if that were the case, wouldn't you see/hear some screeaching from the bearings on startup? What if the cam sprocket, water pump, tensionset set and pulley are not exactly 'lined' up...ever take a look to see if anything is wobbling arround down there?
But to the end, if the the timing belt was too tight, visual inspection of the #1 main bearing will tell you the story (as would #5, right?.....since the crank is now off horizontal, 1 and 5 would takt the worst beating....thoguht I read that somewhere).
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RedRyda
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