Subframe tearout...
Hi guys,
I've been searching for past threads regarding subframe tear-outs. After many attempts, I ran across just a few threads dealing with the prevention (ie. Beaks or A-spec kit), but no such luck in terms of how to deal with it post-tearout.
Here's the skinny: Had a Skunk 22mm with RSR race springs when I started hearing about tearouts...all was fine. But when I switched to softer springs (H&R Sport), well, you know...D-bracket area (passenger side) ripped.
My question is: Will I need to replace the whole subframe? Or will weld work around that area do the trick before reinforcing it with the A-spec kit?
I've had a couple of guys take a look and they told me that hammering/flattening that area out would be good enough as the A-spec plate, with different mounting points, would do the rest.
Can anyone confirm this theory or help shed some light on this? I'd hate to buy it and pay a restocking fee if it doesn't work.
Many thanks in advance!
I've been searching for past threads regarding subframe tear-outs. After many attempts, I ran across just a few threads dealing with the prevention (ie. Beaks or A-spec kit), but no such luck in terms of how to deal with it post-tearout.
Here's the skinny: Had a Skunk 22mm with RSR race springs when I started hearing about tearouts...all was fine. But when I switched to softer springs (H&R Sport), well, you know...D-bracket area (passenger side) ripped.
My question is: Will I need to replace the whole subframe? Or will weld work around that area do the trick before reinforcing it with the A-spec kit?
I've had a couple of guys take a look and they told me that hammering/flattening that area out would be good enough as the A-spec plate, with different mounting points, would do the rest.
Can anyone confirm this theory or help shed some light on this? I'd hate to buy it and pay a restocking fee if it doesn't work.
Many thanks in advance!
If its not ripped BADLY.... I would say you can fix it. Weld the area and buy a A-Spec subframe brace. If its really bad, you are going to have to get a new rear subframe from Honda and have it welded on.
I currently run the 23mm ITR rear swaybar with the BEAKS kit. Currently on H&R Sports, untill i get my GC's back on.
I currently run the 23mm ITR rear swaybar with the BEAKS kit. Currently on H&R Sports, untill i get my GC's back on.
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