This is the 93 Prelude Si I picked up when my old old truck finally gave up the ghost. It's pretty high-mileage, with 205k on the chassis and about 150k on the engine (H23a1 from a 96 lude). The interior is in pretty good shape, but here's what I absolutely need to do to it before any real modding:

-New springs (he put some crappy Bomz ones on and I scrape on almost anything)

-New front bumper and hood (previous owner dinged the corner, body is still straight, hood is aligned properly, and the quarter panel was fine)

-Repaint/surface spot rust removal (very small rust spots, previous owner lived in Seattle and I'm in Idaho, so rust won't really be a problem once I get it taken care of)

-Replace clutch

I want a good-looking car that will be a competent autocrosser. I figured a lightly-built H23 would be just the ticket without spending too much (bolt-ons, H22 pistons, etc.), but with the high mileage will the maintenance costs quickly make having a newer car with payments a more feasible option instead? I really like the design of this car, but I don't want to really waste money on something that won't last.

 

if you take care of the car and seeing as how you're gonna have to delve a little deeper into the motor by puttingh pistons in it. You should easily get another 60k at least

 

I'd keep it and get it running right. If you want more power, I have a chipped ECU for a 96 H23 that would be perfect for you. $110 shipped

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Glockdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I want a good-looking car that will be a competent autocrosser. I figured a lightly-built H23 would be just the ticket without spending too much (bolt-ons, H22 pistons, etc.), but with the high mileage will the maintenance costs quickly make having a newer car with payments a more feasible option instead? I really like the design of this car, but I don't want to really waste money on something that won't last.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know what clubs you plan to auto-x with, but with the SCCA rules, internal engine work will bump you into heavily modded classes. To make/keep the car competent at auto-x, you should first read the rules, pick a class, and then modify the car accordingly.

As an example, I've witnessed a gsr with cams in sm (street mod), an almost open class, and get killed.

I race in sts, and I think your car could do well there; although, it probably will not be able to catch the real light weight cars (i.e. 89-91 civic si).

Either way, have fun.

 

hell yeah its worth it man...
the lude Im getting in December is WAY worse than that... mileage Im not so sure, but it was in a hit n run a few months back, rear quarter panel and door need serious work/replacing... paint is... horrible.
but yeah its definately worth your time and money

 

it would be cheaper to buy a h22a long block than it would to build the h23... find a low mileage h22a and swap it in. You can find one without tranny for less than $1500... to build the h23a it would be about that much if you have it done by professionals... pistons/rings= $350, rods =$350+, all new bearings and gaskets from honda = $400 (including head gasket), having it balanced is about $250, and headwork will be more $$$.... theres no point in building if you are ust going to rebuild it to stock... go with a H22A and you will have more HP, higher redline, and a motor that was put together by honda and not some guy named jimbo who graduated from community tech school.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allmotoronly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> graduated from community tech school.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha dont discourage me!
not to stray from the topic, but where else is a good auto tech, ase certifying school aside from my local comm. college?
(Im gonna be a senior in high school this year, its time for me to start looking into this stuff)

 

Well I have nothing against an engine swap, if that is a cheaper way for more reliable power. As far as the auto-x thing goes, we're in Idaho and it is pretty casual but I think they do stick to the classes at least so I wouldn't want to get bumped up into Rape Class. Would an H22 swap do this also or would I be able to pass it off as a VTEC model?

Even if it does, the replies paint a more optimistic picture than I thought there would be so thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Glockdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as the auto-x thing goes, we're in Idaho and it is pretty casual but I think they do stick to the classes at least so I wouldn't want to get bumped up into Rape Class. Would an H22 swap do this also or would I be able to pass it off as a VTEC model?
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The H22, or internal work, will put the car into rape class. Unless the area region/club is cool and you can pass it off as a VTEC. If this happened, a competitor could protest your car at anytime though; not really worth it than.

I would try to keep it stock and go with a stock street tire class (if the club runs one), or do simple bolt-ons in a st class. The H23's lack of upper end horsepower will not be very detremental in auto-x; I spend most of my time in 2nd gear at 3500-5500 rpm, where the H23 is probably superior to the H22. Plus, if I remember correctly, simple mods like even a cheap header can make good gains on the H23 since the stock stuff is very restrictive.

Personally, I wouldn't mind driving a h23 lude in sts, and would like to see how they perform. Torque FTW!

2006 SCCA rules

 

I thought engine swaps from the same chassis are allowed in stock class....

But you're best bet for auto-x is KNOWING how to drive your car... and tires

 

After re-reading the stock class rules, I think you are correct; although a JDM engine would not be allowed due to the higher compression ratio than the USDM available H22s.

 

how much?? from the pics it looks clean

 

haha luckily for us... they probably wouldn't know the difference between h22a1 and h22a... but if you're honest that could be cheating

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I got the CD5 Jeebies! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much?? from the pics it looks clean</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well honestly it's not for sale only because I really don't have the time to shop for anything else. I do phlebotomy with the Red Cross' mobile unit in my region and so I usually have a real busy schedule.

I guess the intent of the question was whether to get it back to stock to keep resale value down the road or put some light mods on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ECX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
(Im gonna be a senior in high school this year, its time for me to start looking into this stuff)</TD></TR></TABLE>

you shoudl have started thinking about that 2-3 years ago. haha. I always tell thes eyounger kids I see, make plans for college or whatever kind of job you want to have when you graduate freshmen or sophmore year at the latest, with that much time, you can set yourself up for success pretty well.

if you wanted to buy a newer car to race, it probably wouldn't be worth it because how much hp/tq woudl you be increasing from what your prelude had and how much money woudl you have to spend for that?..