<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skelly ed666 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hub, knuckle, bearing, lower arm, possible radius arm... Start with that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

plus new wheel, tire, alignment, sway bar, bushings, ...........

its prolly about time to start looking for a ef shell. its gonna be cheaper. trust me. i know.

EDIT: I've never done it but a friend of mine has.

 

you got pics of body or is it fine

 

sub frame might be bent to.... happend on my friends car. he tried to "drift" took aa while to get the real story out of him lol, first he said there was sumin in the raod and he didnt see it til it was right infront of him lol

-joseph

 

Yup, there is some body damage


It was in need of some body work in this one area so I suppose It ruined the side that was less important.

This is how it happened, I was coming back from my girlfriends house around 4AM this morning (she has to work at 4AM, so I leave her house when she does), and I was coming up to an intersection where I had to turn Left on (indicated in blue), but just a few metres before that is a very poorly lit turn off into an ally, as seen in green. I didn't see the curb until the last second, I thought the turn off Lane I was on went all the way up to the intersection that I had to turn left on.


It scared the hell outta me.

 

I was in a similiar situation, and bent my whole front right suspension in pretty good.

I have replaced most of it, and it will never be the same.

Never.

 

Your BEST chance is to find a local u-pull-it yard, and spend a few hours there. You can usually find cars with the motor trans pulled. Dont try wrestling with the parts at the yard. Instead just jack the car up and unbolt the rear crossmember from the shell WITH the lcas, and everything else still bolted to it. You'll have to unhook some stuff up top, and unbolt the shocks and upper control arms. Most yards will charge you less than $200 for everything.

Trust me, this is the easiest and cheapest way. Bring a friend its heavy.

 

judging your diagram i would have gone a bit slower in a dimly lit spot like that. reminds me of the other night a guy in a 05 civic comes flying up my street at the top theres a sharp turn and straight ahead is a driveway, no steetlight, he's doing about 55 mph and flys right into the hidden driveway instead of taking the sharp turn, the driveway has a steep incline so it slammed the bumper, he stops.........realized what he did..........backs up .......and speeds off i was laughing so hard

anywas GL fixin your car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rioninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your BEST chance is to find a local u-pull-it yard, and spend a few hours there. You can usually find cars with the motor trans pulled. Dont try wrestling with the parts at the yard. Instead just jack the car up and unbolt the rear crossmember from the shell WITH the lcas, and everything else still bolted to it. You'll have to unhook some stuff up top, and unbolt the shocks and upper control arms. Most yards will charge you less than $200 for everything.

Trust me, this is the easiest and cheapest way. Bring a friend its heavy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup, just change out the rear crossmember with everything still attatched to it. As long as the frame rail didnt get messed up it should be as straight as it was before.

 

dude dont feel bad i drove smack over one of those turning islands in my old g20 onetime. Of course it was at night, in a heavy downpour. I dont think it was a full size curb, kind of like a half size curb, but it definitley scares the crap out of you.

 

In the pictures it clearly looks like you bent your front subframe where your front lower control arms bolts up to.

 

I took a pretty hard hit during an off at the track and the results looked similar to yours. I'd bet the lower control arm is bent and that's causing the axle to almost hit the subframe mount. If you're lucky, thats the extent of it. The subframe is pretty damn strong and the radius rod/LCA are meant to bend and dissipate the brunt of the energy in a collision. Good luck.

 

Were you unfamiliar with the road? I mean, if you were visiting your girlfriend, and assuming u visit her more than once, then wouldn't this road be familiar to you?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goforbroke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In the pictures it clearly looks like you bent your front subframe where your front lower control arms bolts up to.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, your cv shaft shouldn't be hitting your lca mount bracket, i think you bent your subframe, it may be possible to pound it back, but i think u may be in more **** than you think...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nappyroots827 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree, your cv shaft shouldn't be hitting your lca mount bracket, i think you bent your subframe, it may be possible to pound it back, but i think u may be in more **** than you think...</TD></TR></TABLE>

the control arm being as bent as it is, would it be possible that the subframe is not damaged?

 

nothings impossible, its just not likely, i mean, the bushing should have absorbed a lot of the impact, but to a degree, and like i said, unless your lca is really messed up, your cv shouldn't be hitting anything like it is

 

Exactly, your subframe is bent dude. Your toy will never be the same especially at high speeds. Even though are grocery getters weren't designed for it we ocassionally still do it.

 

Are you sure the sub-frame didnt substain any damage?

 

Some people are calling it the subframe, which is what i was referring to as the rear cross member. It all unbolts. Unless the frame itself is bent (not too likely), you can do as i suggested above.

 

hondas don't have a frame, its a unibody

 

Unibody......subframe who cares. I just looked it up and aparantely it does unbolt from the frame. I never knew that nore have I ever seen a unbolted one. I guess they bolt it to frame and then weld it on afterwards.

 

Just thought I'd post a quick update, since I like when people update their threads with a conclusion to their original problem.

I ended up replacing the spindle, lower control arm, stabilizer bar, and front crossmember. (came out to about 220$ CDN for everything)

To anyone that runs into a curb and your looking at this thread, do NOT necessarily believe the people that said replacing the whole rear crossmember with everything bolted on will fix the problem, this might actually just entail more work than you have to do. Although in some cases it might be a good way of starting to fix the damage, it might not be the best solution.

Since the radius rod is connected to the front crossmember, when you hit a curb like I did (from the front), it will cause the front crossmember to deform, since the wheel is being forced backwards, consequently the lower control arm is forced backwards, the radius rod as well, and finally the front crossmember is forced backwards. In my case, not only did it deform the front crossmember, but the frame the crossmember was attatched to was shifted a bit as well.

The mount where the lower control arm attatches to the rear crossmember was fine, and did not need replacement.

After I replaced the mentioned parts, I took it to the guys at Edmonton Chassis, they straightened the frame out (5 hours on the machine), and gave an alignment.

I've driven it for a few days now, on the highway and around town, and I must say that my car feels EXACTLY the way it did before. So for those of you who may come across the thread in search of fixing your car after a stupid curb incident, there still is hope to getting your baby back to the way it used to be.