Hey guys, trying to get some experieced help here. I got my car a couple weeks ago. Its a crx but it has a b18 from a 90 teg in it. The car hasn't run right since i got it. I have a feeling the guy sold it cuz of this problem. Anyway it studders and has almost no throttle response when warmed up under 3k rpm. above 3k its fine and when its cold its fine. the vacuum lines where way screwed up (think he had them run from a b16 diagram) I fixed all of these except for i am missing the evap purge control soleniod which isnt availible in the crx wiring, i just bypassed it) still did the problem so it wasnt vacuum but now have a CEL, so i read the code (43). fuel supply system. so i buy a bottle of seafoam.. run it thru half a tank of gas, replaced the o2 sensor, and the fuel filter. still have the problem. There is a b&m ( i think) FPR on the car with a gauge. now i noticed the pressure was a little high when i got it. I lowered it back to factory spec and the car will hardly run.. the idle lately has been very high and with the fuel at factory spec the car will backfire and hardly run. at 50psi (where is was set when i bought it and that is with vacuum line attached) it is drivable but still has the above stated problem.

All i know now to replace is the following.

1)cat converter (will replace with test pipe)
2)fuel injectors and fuel rail
3)fuel pump

Is there anything else i should try first? what is the order you would replace these in?


CLIFF NOTES - CODE 43, WONT RUN ON STOCK FUEL PSI, TRIED REPLACING THE 02 AND FUEL FILTER, DIDN'T WORK.. HELP!!

Thanks a lot guys, sorry about the novel but i need this car to run so i can drive it because i just wrecked my new SI

 

OK.. taking the time to notice things finally... my distributor is set ALL the way advanced. So i see this im like wtf... take off the valve cover.. checking the timing. get to TDC and the white mark lines up with the mark on the timing cover at a certain angle, I think that it may be a tooth off. Anyway i have a friend with a timing light. so we hook it up all according to the teg tip. now the mark on the cover for cam timing, is this the same mark you use for ignition timing? when we shine the light on there you can see it lining up with the white mark. loosened the distributor bolts moved it a little clockwise, not much at all.. motor boggs out and wants to die and the white mark moves further away from the red mark.. like if it moved the other way we could have retarded the timing enough to line up the red mark, but it went the wrong way... what is wrong here? i can order a new tbelt and all and change that but wanted to hear an opinion first?? is it possible that the distributor is just totally installed improperly and its not the timing belts fault?

 

probably a fuel pump or injectors will fix your problem, jus make sure you get oem injectors or else your ecu will throw the code anyway.

 

well the previous owner had an adjustable FPR on it, and it was set at 50 psi. to me, this rules out the pump lol. i replaced it with a factory one and the pressure is where its suppose to be. i really think this is an ignition timing problem, considering that it is set way off. i do have some injectors that i got used, is there a way to clean them before installing?

 

If the distributor is advanced all the way. Your car is out time. GO buy a new timing belt take the old one off put all the timing marks where they go and put the belt on. just make sure that #1 cylinder is TDC when you line up the timing marks on the crank. Oh yeah your distributor can only go on one way so that wouldnt be it. hope that might help