Anyone ever had these???
Full racing coilovers designed by Jay Morris of Ground Control found here. They're a monotube, double-adjustable design with separate adjustment for compression and rebound with aluminum shock bodies.
Can't find anyone who's had them. Chris from Red Shift claims they're equal if not slightly better than the SPSS Koni's. The application will be for road racing, I really need some opinions on these.
Can't find anyone who's had them. Chris from Red Shift claims they're equal if not slightly better than the SPSS Koni's. The application will be for road racing, I really need some opinions on these.
It used to be a popular coilover (Advanced Design) back in the day, but most people I know who had them had a lot of problems with them and moved on. Problems with both the physical shock and having them serviced.
If you are referring to the Advanced Design Race Coil-over on that page, they're more popular with the E36 BMW types than the Honda crowd. Check the Beemer boards and the SCCA ITS guys.
I think a couple off the SE-R cup guys run them too.
Thawley
I think a couple off the SE-R cup guys run them too.
Thawley
Here is a short clip of my car using them this past weekend at a practice event.
http://www.northwestmr2.com/in...a.wmv
http://www.northwestmr2.com/in...a.wmv
Advance Design dampers are allegedly pretty fragile, and they seem to take a very unconventional approach to tuning (using low speed bump to adjust handling balance, rather than rebound).
Myself and several others have also had less-than-stellar experiences with Ground Control's customer service.
Myself and several others have also had less-than-stellar experiences with Ground Control's customer service.
Do I have any other options for a high performance full coilover? If not what's the closest I can get for my 90' CRX?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DB2-R81 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Here is a short clip of my car using them this past weekend at a practice event.
http://www.northwestmr2.com/in...a.wmv </TD></TR></TABLE>
Woof that was nice. How you powered out of the last turns was most impressive
. What spring rates were you running?? Have you had similar problems as listed above with your GC "Advanced Design" coilovers?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DB2-R81 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Here is a short clip of my car using them this past weekend at a practice event.
http://www.northwestmr2.com/in...a.wmv </TD></TR></TABLE>
Woof that was nice. How you powered out of the last turns was most impressive
. What spring rates were you running?? Have you had similar problems as listed above with your GC "Advanced Design" coilovers?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thawley »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are referring to the Advanced Design Race Coil-over on that page, they're more popular with the E36 BMW types than the Honda crowd.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used Advance Design race coilovers on my E36 M3. I was nothing but impressed and happy with them. I had every part that Ground Control makes for the E36 chassis on that car, and I always had great experiences dealing with GC.
FWIW, they're much better than the Spoon and Zeal coilovers that I've used on my ITR's.
I used Advance Design race coilovers on my E36 M3. I was nothing but impressed and happy with them. I had every part that Ground Control makes for the E36 chassis on that car, and I always had great experiences dealing with GC.

FWIW, they're much better than the Spoon and Zeal coilovers that I've used on my ITR's.
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I am also using the GC AD shocks. Marc (DB2-R81) and I are in the same club. I have experienced both the worst and the best of Ground Control's customer service. They took 2 months to send me out a rebuild kit for the shocks 2 years ago, but then last summer, they did 2 rebuilds for me, and both times I had the shocks back in my hands (in Canada no less) within 5 days of having sent them out.
I had some trouble at first with the nitrogen leaking out of the shocks, but once the threads of the shraeder valves were sealed with some teflon tape, and the valve cores were properly tightened, the nitrogen stayed in the shocks. I have to say though, that against GC's advice, I daily drive on these shocks.
I initially switched from Zeal B6 shocks to these, and I have to say, the difference was very noticeable. They seemed alot smoother, and more easily able to absorb irregularities in the racing surface/road, and the valving seemed much more spot on for the spring rates I am using (anywhere from 650 down to 400, both front and rear). And the damping adjustments actually change the performance of the shocks.
I had some trouble at first with the nitrogen leaking out of the shocks, but once the threads of the shraeder valves were sealed with some teflon tape, and the valve cores were properly tightened, the nitrogen stayed in the shocks. I have to say though, that against GC's advice, I daily drive on these shocks.
I initially switched from Zeal B6 shocks to these, and I have to say, the difference was very noticeable. They seemed alot smoother, and more easily able to absorb irregularities in the racing surface/road, and the valving seemed much more spot on for the spring rates I am using (anywhere from 650 down to 400, both front and rear). And the damping adjustments actually change the performance of the shocks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FWIW, they're much better than the Spoon and Zeal coilovers that I've used on my ITR's.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's a pretty high recommendation.
That's a pretty high recommendation.
Hello Grr Wolfe,
I am using 650lbs X 8” on the front and 800lbs X 8” on the rear. I requested these spring rates and matching valving for my car and these perform very well for my application. I have not had any problems with my units to date other than a bad seal on one of the rear units when I initially installed them.
The main reason I chose these dampers over previously used Koni Yellow’s was supposed ease of service, double adjustability and a large weight saving. The units are extremely lightweight, nicely finished, well priced and have out performed the OTS Koni Yellow's.
Having said this there were difficulties dealing with Jay and GC on my initial problem, however they did eventually replace the bad damper seal with an entirely new damper.
I will also mention I have had difficulty dealing with GC and their customer service on previously owned sleeves, collars and springs for the Koni Yellow’s.
If you would like any other information just ask.
I am using 650lbs X 8” on the front and 800lbs X 8” on the rear. I requested these spring rates and matching valving for my car and these perform very well for my application. I have not had any problems with my units to date other than a bad seal on one of the rear units when I initially installed them.
The main reason I chose these dampers over previously used Koni Yellow’s was supposed ease of service, double adjustability and a large weight saving. The units are extremely lightweight, nicely finished, well priced and have out performed the OTS Koni Yellow's.
Having said this there were difficulties dealing with Jay and GC on my initial problem, however they did eventually replace the bad damper seal with an entirely new damper.
I will also mention I have had difficulty dealing with GC and their customer service on previously owned sleeves, collars and springs for the Koni Yellow’s.
If you would like any other information just ask.
Excellent advice thanks guys
. I have an opportunity to buy some used ones which will require rebuilding soon. What do you think a reasonable price for these are so I know what to shoot for? How much does GC tend to charge for a rebuild on all 4?
. I have an opportunity to buy some used ones which will require rebuilding soon. What do you think a reasonable price for these are so I know what to shoot for? How much does GC tend to charge for a rebuild on all 4?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grr Wolfe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have an opportunity to buy some used ones which will require rebuilding soon.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And frequently thereafter.
And frequently thereafter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And frequently thereafter.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Only thing that seems to happen, is the nitrogen leaks out. Put the right sealant (teflon tape works) on the threads of the shrader valve, and make sure the valve core is tight, and you're good to go.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grr Wolfe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you think a reasonable price for these are so I know what to shoot for? How much does GC tend to charge for a rebuild on all 4?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I bought 2 used sets, both in good to great condition, and I paid $800-$900 per set for them. GC charges $200 plus return shipping for a complete rebuild.
And frequently thereafter.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Only thing that seems to happen, is the nitrogen leaks out. Put the right sealant (teflon tape works) on the threads of the shrader valve, and make sure the valve core is tight, and you're good to go.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grr Wolfe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you think a reasonable price for these are so I know what to shoot for? How much does GC tend to charge for a rebuild on all 4?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I bought 2 used sets, both in good to great condition, and I paid $800-$900 per set for them. GC charges $200 plus return shipping for a complete rebuild.
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