hi, i need some advice on mods for my honda civic eg6 siR2 b16a2, im just about to recieve it after importing it from japan, and i want to start shopping around for good prices on good performance mods, only, im not sure which mods to go for in order to get the maximum performance with this wicked engine.

please give me sum advice!


cheers josh

 

maximum performance = turbo, but if you dont wanna do that you can always turn to the regular bolt-ons... intake maybe, maybe a cold air, intake manifold, throttle body, headers, cat, exhaust, pullies, fuel rail/regulator/injectors... but all ot this means nothing if you dont tune it... so go get an aem ems or hondata... thats where the real power is made, in the tuning, get your bone stock motor tuned and then race another untuned b16... you'll see the difference then...

 

you might want to port and polish the head....not a lot of people think about it, but it works and it will give you room to uprade later(turbo).....but that is after you do i/h/e and maybe im

 

ok thanks, i have just purchased a high flow fuel rail and an adjustable fuel regulator, also an intake manifold witch has been modified slightly to give a better flow, will these parts give any performance increase on their own or will other bolt-ons be needed for these to work??

thanks guys

 

increasing your fuel is not going to give your car more power. Right now your car has no need for more fuel. Think about cams, IM, throttle body, etc. Dumping more fuel into a basically stock motor won't do ****.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sir222 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok thanks, i have just purchased a high flow fuel rail and an adjustable fuel regulator</TD></TR></TABLE>

Translation: I already threw away $200.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sir222 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also an intake manifold witch has been modified slightly to give a better flow, will these parts give any performance increase on their own or will other bolt-ons be needed for these to work??</TD></TR></TABLE>

A ported stock intake manifold isn't going to do anything noticable for performance on an otherwise-stock 1.6L motor. If you're serious about performance, you'll stop buying crappy parts that do absolutely nothing and you'll read a little bit of information to determine what performance path best fits your timeframe and budget.

 

the b16a2 was made in japan too?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bsixteen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the b16a2 was made in japan too?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you people are lost....

 

^^ lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bsixteen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the b16a2 was made in japan too?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, if he has a B16a2 then it wasn't made in japan. If he really does have one from a Japanese car it's a B16a, no "2." With that asside I would just start out with basic Intake/Headers/Exhaust - u get a good cold air intake, good 4-2-1 headers, a catback exhaust system with a high flow cat or resonator or if year/state permits straight pipe it. From there you can move more internal but not to internals with a skunk 2 intake manifold or something of the sort, you can port the intake manifold and throttle body (or put a larger like an ITR throttle body) on and port the IM. That's basically all I'd do bolt on wise, for additional power the fuel pressure regulator and fuel rail that you have isn't worth it unless you have larger injectors (which u'll have to buy). Regardless of whether your'e going turbo or natural aspiration you're going to have to build the bottom of the motor up if you're going to be adding lots of power. The cheapest and most powerful solution is turbo, but regardless ur going to get reinforced rods/bearings and high comp pistons, then maybe for a lil more compression u can get dish valves, but if u wanna rev higher u'll need a new valve train assembly. Before you hit the block/head internals I'd look in aftermarket cam/camgear and if u ported anything or adjusted the fuel then chip ur ECU and have it tuned with crome (I'm not a big fan of hondata just b/c it costs more).. That's a pretty solid foundation for whether you go N/A for FI

 

sarcasm ftl i guess? lol i have a b16a2

 

thanks guys, sorry i was under the impression it was a b16a2, it is from japan though so it must be a b16a...cheers.

god it pisses me off when some of you say things like 'stop buying crappy parts that do absolutely nothing '...im asking for advice so theres no need to give me **** here lol.

thanks for those helping me though.

i want to try and avoid the turbo, and go for the more revy idea.

cheers josh

 

Basically what was already said, no need for me to repeat. However, the pistons you want would be domed, not dished, as was previously said.

Do not get a 4-2-1 header, unless it's like a Toda or Profab or something. Why? B16=Peaky motor. 4-2-1 is good for midrange, which we don't have anyways. 4-1 is what you want, for top end, which is basically thew powerband of the B16.

Search for Omniman's 200hp B16

 

ok thanks for that, so would it make any difference buying a 4-1 off of ebay from i.e 2 fast 2 cool..... or should i go for a real expensive one?? like from spoon or apexi etc

cheers josh

 

For now, get something cheap and effective, and save up for something better. JDM ITR replicas are like $200 on eBay, and they work.

 

For mine, I just stuffed in HKS intake, mugen 4-1, and an adjustable fuel regulator for a slightly higher /constant fuel pressure. That is a good bare minimum for a stock B16a IMO, and it doesn't break the bank or horsepower records.

Since it is a a decade old engine (probably for you as well) cleaning up the injectors or blueprinting is a good option to consider.

If you're talking about higher power output.. turbo's the way, or a B20 frankenmotor with other mods.

when you're on a budget like I am.. I think better keep it simple and clean.



Modified by shiroitenshi at 6:07 AM 7/17/2006


Modified by shiroitenshi at 6:08 AM 7/17/2006

 

YES the 2nd generation jdm sir-II is a b16a2 contrary to everyone's confusion, i got mine directly from overseas so I am positive. Dont waste your money on fuel rail or adjustable pressure regulator, it will just give you bad gas mileage. If you want to go NA start out with camshafts that dont need replacement of the valvtrain - CTR cams are a good choice, they are like stock cams with more power and they won't break the bank. Get a good intake and a really good header (research which one you want). Exhuast doesnt matter too much just get a decent one. Chip your ecu and you can tune any set up you have/change.

Thats for a dd/budget build, if you got loot you can produce more power and rev mucher higher with tons of different options for internals. _Plenty of info on honda-tech

 

wicked thanks for the help.

so any of you no what the apexi n1 exaust is like, i think its a cat back, angled exit, straight/jap cut end.
does it sound nice?
is it worth the money?

thanks!!!

 

Loud, no, and not in my opinion.

 

Greddy evo ftw

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sir222 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok thanks for that, so would it make any difference buying a 4-1 off of ebay from i.e 2 fast 2 cool..... or should i go for a real expensive one?? like from spoon or apexi etc

cheers josh </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why did you even bother asking us about performance if your plan was to buy all the tiny, insignificant, worthless parts you could? Seriously, I'm curious. If you want to get anything accomplished with that engine, you'll stop buying every shiny trinket that comes along.

Do yourself a favor. Send back every single part you've purchased so far and start saving for a turbokit and engine management. If you want to spend money as it comes, go to the forced induction forum, find a setup that's conducive to your budget and start buying things piece by piece.

Stop wasting our time.

 

if you wanna stay away from turbo this'll get u started Intake, Headers, exhaust, high flow cat, BC3+ or Skunk stage 1 cams, 1 layer HG, 4.9 Final drive, and tune it, thats all u need and there is tons of potential for improvement here too, like valvetrain with more aggresive cams and pistons/rods etc. the beginnings of a beast

 

i think if you go buddy club stage 3 cams they require upgraded valvetrain. the skunk stage 1 will work though

 

I dont understand why you all jump on the turbo wagon. With gas prices so high why would one spend money on a turbo, just to rape yourself in gas prices. Sure the power output is great, but how many of u really make use of it?

IMO stick with NA until you feel the need for more, and when ur capable of doing it.

 

Maybe because Built NA's need high octane gas anyway, or how my buddy's b16 integra turbo with 280 whp gets 650 km's on a tank of gas.

As long as you baby your car, the tune with your turbo set-up can often increase gas mileage.