Is the 06 Si motor OverHyped ?
I bought a 06 Civic Rallye Red SI but i am waiting almost 3 months for delivery is this motor all its cracked up too be i am a noob i dont know much about honda engine's.
Well it obviously depends from where you came from. Since you're a noob to Honda, did you used to own a domestic? If so, the engine is overhyped. If you used to own a import say a Toyota Echo, no no its not overhyped.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junkyard racer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would recommend breaking in the motor....take an easy on her the first few thousand miles. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Best break in method is to run it pretty hard. There's a whole write-up somewhere that has to do with break in methods.
Link: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ...WillSI06... »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i will actaully be learning how to drive stick on the SI wish me luck. Whats the easyest way to blow the transmisson ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You won't blow the transmission learning to drive it. You may smell something terrible a few times, something that smells burnt, that's your clutch... it'll be alright. You'll get used to it and after a couple of days of driving stick, you'll have it down.
Best break in method is to run it pretty hard. There's a whole write-up somewhere that has to do with break in methods.
Link: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ...WillSI06... »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i will actaully be learning how to drive stick on the SI wish me luck. Whats the easyest way to blow the transmisson ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You won't blow the transmission learning to drive it. You may smell something terrible a few times, something that smells burnt, that's your clutch... it'll be alright. You'll get used to it and after a couple of days of driving stick, you'll have it down.
Ahh yes, the good ol Ford Exploder...
I came from a V8 Camaro to this car, and I was actually impressed. It kicks it when you want it to. Most people here are speed sense dulled from other models and thier tuning adventures. If you're new to the 4cyl world, like I was, this thing will impress you.
I came from a V8 Camaro to this car, and I was actually impressed. It kicks it when you want it to. Most people here are speed sense dulled from other models and thier tuning adventures. If you're new to the 4cyl world, like I was, this thing will impress you.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wsteun »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Best break in method is to run it pretty hard. There's a whole write-up somewhere that has to do with break in methods.
Link: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
</TD></TR></TABLE>
is that actually true? site seems kinda shoddy to me
Link: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
</TD></TR></TABLE>
is that actually true? site seems kinda shoddy to me
Took me 2 days to learn stick back during highschool, my father took me to the mall parking lot on a Sunday night and we used the wide open area to try my skills. It's really easy and once you learn it, it's like riding a bike. If you want to learn quick go to a dealer and test drive a car, learn on theirs so you don't burn yours
i learned to drive a stick with a buddy sitting in the passenger seat (who was very large and selling me the car) who said "u get one fukk up, after that im punching u eat time u stall". i stalled twice. never again.
the break in period recommended by honda, in the owners manual, states 600 miles. not a few thousand, not running and gunning the first day. that break in time is for the transmission, clutch, flywheel, pistons, rods, bearings, etc. they all need to be broken in before stomping down on it. i also agree with going to test drive a car before buying urs. the clutch disc is NOT covered under the warranty. and this transmission doesnt look like its fun to pull off to replace the clutch.
the break in period recommended by honda, in the owners manual, states 600 miles. not a few thousand, not running and gunning the first day. that break in time is for the transmission, clutch, flywheel, pistons, rods, bearings, etc. they all need to be broken in before stomping down on it. i also agree with going to test drive a car before buying urs. the clutch disc is NOT covered under the warranty. and this transmission doesnt look like its fun to pull off to replace the clutch.
**** i still havent learned to drive stick i planned learning on the SI when it comes in but i am a quick learner plus ive been driving for 5 years so i am sure it wont be a prob for me. I def dont want to mess anything up though what are the main things i can do to avoid burning up my clutch.
Once you get down the basics, it's really easy to drive it without burning the clutch except on hills which takes a little longer because you get nervous. I'd recommend renting a car or finding a friend that doesn't mind to avoid any damage to your new car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wsteun »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Best break in method is to run it pretty hard. There's a whole write-up somewhere that has to do with break in methods.
Link: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
You won't blow the transmission learning to drive it. You may smell something terrible a few times, something that smells burnt, that's your clutch... it'll be alright. You'll get used to it and after a couple of days of driving stick, you'll have it down.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually, that's not completely accurate. Proper break-in is very important to a new CAR. The clutch should be broken in and no hard shifts/downshifts or slipping of the clutch should be done within the first 500 miles. The tranny should be broken in by no hard shifts or hard downshifts and no high RPM shifting. Most tires need to be broken in about 200 miles before they have full traction. Suspension and brakes are not much of a concern. After a few hard braking sessions, they are good to go.
And if you smell your clutch, it means you are slipping it/burning your clutch.
the engine is a little less cut and dry.
break-in on the engine is actually a mix of what the manual says and the hard driving method.
For the first 600 miles you have your new car, you DO want to get on the car, BUT you want to get on it hard OUT of vtec. The reason you want to get on the car and give it WOT is to break in the seals/rings/pistons and so on. If you baby the car for the first 1000 miles, you will have a slower car that burns oil.
So get on the car hard, but dont bring the car to the high RPM's for the first 600 miles. If you tap into vtec here and there it is ok, just dont redline it. The biggest thing to break in though is the clutch/tranny and all their components. Shift soft and dont shift at high RPM's for the first 500-600 miles, unless you enjoy grinding gears later on and dead synchros.
And hard downshifts is the easiest way to kill the clutch early.
This is the same for all cars pretty much. If it is a turbo car like an STI or EVO, same thing, you want to get on throttle hard but not past about 5000 RPMS for the first 600 miles.
And the SI engine is very good for being a 20k car. Pull hard and its nice and smooth.
Matt
Best break in method is to run it pretty hard. There's a whole write-up somewhere that has to do with break in methods.
Link: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
You won't blow the transmission learning to drive it. You may smell something terrible a few times, something that smells burnt, that's your clutch... it'll be alright. You'll get used to it and after a couple of days of driving stick, you'll have it down.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually, that's not completely accurate. Proper break-in is very important to a new CAR. The clutch should be broken in and no hard shifts/downshifts or slipping of the clutch should be done within the first 500 miles. The tranny should be broken in by no hard shifts or hard downshifts and no high RPM shifting. Most tires need to be broken in about 200 miles before they have full traction. Suspension and brakes are not much of a concern. After a few hard braking sessions, they are good to go.
And if you smell your clutch, it means you are slipping it/burning your clutch.
the engine is a little less cut and dry.
break-in on the engine is actually a mix of what the manual says and the hard driving method.
For the first 600 miles you have your new car, you DO want to get on the car, BUT you want to get on it hard OUT of vtec. The reason you want to get on the car and give it WOT is to break in the seals/rings/pistons and so on. If you baby the car for the first 1000 miles, you will have a slower car that burns oil.
So get on the car hard, but dont bring the car to the high RPM's for the first 600 miles. If you tap into vtec here and there it is ok, just dont redline it. The biggest thing to break in though is the clutch/tranny and all their components. Shift soft and dont shift at high RPM's for the first 500-600 miles, unless you enjoy grinding gears later on and dead synchros.
And hard downshifts is the easiest way to kill the clutch early.
This is the same for all cars pretty much. If it is a turbo car like an STI or EVO, same thing, you want to get on throttle hard but not past about 5000 RPMS for the first 600 miles.
And the SI engine is very good for being a 20k car. Pull hard and its nice and smooth.
Matt
I dont think i can rent a car i am only 21 i heard you must be 25 i dont think i will expletive the si up that while learning stick on it. lol people are just scaring me with all these diff opinons on proper break-in stuff like that is too much to pay attention to while trying to learn how to drive it.
you will be fine man
get the car, drive it normally, just dont beat the **** out of it
and dont worry so much
a clutch isnt that expensive if you burn it out a little faster due to the learning process
if you have to replace it a little sooner than most, its only like 500 bucks installed for a clutch
get the car, drive it normally, just dont beat the **** out of it
and dont worry so much
a clutch isnt that expensive if you burn it out a little faster due to the learning process
if you have to replace it a little sooner than most, its only like 500 bucks installed for a clutch
damn i forgot about the break in period of new cars (havent had a new one in awhile...) was hoping to be able to jump in the si when it gets here and take off flying...damnit. oh well guess i gotta wait awhile before i feel all 197 horses...or maybe ill just keep driving the first day until i reach 500 miles >
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azcheron »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, that's not completely accurate. Proper break-in is very important to a new CAR. The clutch should be broken in and no hard shifts/downshifts or slipping of the clutch should be done within the first 500 miles. The tranny should be broken in by no hard shifts or hard downshifts and no high RPM shifting. Most tires need to be broken in about 200 miles before they have full traction. Suspension and brakes are not much of a concern. After a few hard braking sessions, they are good to go.
And if you smell your clutch, it means you are slipping it/burning your clutch.
the engine is a little less cut and dry.
break-in on the engine is actually a mix of what the manual says and the hard driving method.
For the first 600 miles you have your new car, you DO want to get on the car, BUT you want to get on it hard OUT of vtec. The reason you want to get on the car and give it WOT is to break in the seals/rings/pistons and so on. If you baby the car for the first 1000 miles, you will have a slower car that burns oil.
So get on the car hard, but dont bring the car to the high RPM's for the first 600 miles. If you tap into vtec here and there it is ok, just dont redline it. The biggest thing to break in though is the clutch/tranny and all their components. Shift soft and dont shift at high RPM's for the first 500-600 miles, unless you enjoy grinding gears later on and dead synchros.
And hard downshifts is the easiest way to kill the clutch early.
This is the same for all cars pretty much. If it is a turbo car like an STI or EVO, same thing, you want to get on throttle hard but not past about 5000 RPMS for the first 600 miles.
And the SI engine is very good for being a 20k car. Pull hard and its nice and smooth.
Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>
what is vtec engagement point on the new si's? 5800 rpms? i think thats what it was on my ex ><; need that hondata
And if you smell your clutch, it means you are slipping it/burning your clutch.
the engine is a little less cut and dry.
break-in on the engine is actually a mix of what the manual says and the hard driving method.
For the first 600 miles you have your new car, you DO want to get on the car, BUT you want to get on it hard OUT of vtec. The reason you want to get on the car and give it WOT is to break in the seals/rings/pistons and so on. If you baby the car for the first 1000 miles, you will have a slower car that burns oil.
So get on the car hard, but dont bring the car to the high RPM's for the first 600 miles. If you tap into vtec here and there it is ok, just dont redline it. The biggest thing to break in though is the clutch/tranny and all their components. Shift soft and dont shift at high RPM's for the first 500-600 miles, unless you enjoy grinding gears later on and dead synchros.
And hard downshifts is the easiest way to kill the clutch early.
This is the same for all cars pretty much. If it is a turbo car like an STI or EVO, same thing, you want to get on throttle hard but not past about 5000 RPMS for the first 600 miles.
And the SI engine is very good for being a 20k car. Pull hard and its nice and smooth.
Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>
what is vtec engagement point on the new si's? 5800 rpms? i think thats what it was on my ex ><; need that hondata


