what do you guys think of this?
anybody have one or anything similar?

http://www.aj-racing.com/catal...age=4

does this thing really do as much as it says it does? what about a grounding kit? that will actually give me more power? hmmmmmm
seems too good to be true to me....

 

I don't think it would hurt anything. As far as the grounding goes, it makes sense. You should benefit if you replace your current wires with a thicker gauge. Sand the contact point for good connectivity. I recommend buying your own wires and doing it yourself before you buy a voltage regulator.

 

I have heard they actually work at improving idle and voltage fluxuations. But please do not pay that much they sell for like $40 shipped.

 

Absolute waste of time... both of them.

Your car already has a voltage regulator. And the only reason a grounding kit would help is if your grounds are in bad shape and need to be replaced.

 

not true. i know that the ground wires are good. even if yours are already fine. this has been dyno proven over and over again. due to the fact that the current travels faster allowing sending units and sensors to send information the components faster. in turn by making this faster applies better throttle response, smoother idol, and yes slightly better power( imphasis on slightly). im not sure of the voltage regulator never had the urge to try those out. but dont spend alot of money on it, you get the same thing from making one on your own.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtechlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not true. i know that the ground wires are good. even if yours are already fine. this has been dyno proven over and over again. due to the fact that the current travels faster allowing sending units and sensors to send information the components faster. in turn by making this faster applies better throttle response, smoother idol, and yes slightly better power( imphasis on slightly). im not sure of the voltage regulator never had the urge to try those out. but dont spend alot of money on it, you get the same thing from making one on your own. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow... really? That makes no sense. Care to explain that using a formula?

Assuming your ground straps are still good (as I stated before) you will have little to no impedance to ground, thus making more and bigger cables useless...

Well that is of course you bathe the ground staps in NAWZ. That will make the current travel faster than the money coming out of your wallet to buy this crap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtechlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not true. i know that the ground wires are good. even if yours are already fine. this has been dyno proven over and over again. due to the fact that the current travels faster allowing sending units and sensors to send information the components faster. in turn by making this faster applies better throttle response, smoother idol, and yes slightly better power( imphasis on slightly). im not sure of the voltage regulator never had the urge to try those out. but dont spend alot of money on it, you get the same thing from making one on your own. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have a way to make current travel faster, you might wanna patent it. The rest of the free world would love to hear about it.

 

many comapanys have dyno proven that even with brand new cars thats grounding kits increase power. import tuner did it a couple times in their mag, super street also and i have seen in person just by adding these kits 2-3 hp increases. so i know for a fact that they do help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtechlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">many comapanys have dyno proven that even with brand new cars thats grounding kits increase power. import tuner did it a couple times in their mag, super street also and i have seen in person just by adding these kits 2-3 hp increases. so i know for a fact that they do help. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Superstreet ftw! You are right... my EE/CPE engineering degree has nothing against Superstreet!

 

ok let me refraise the faster moving current to more freely moving current.

 

all im stating is that it has been dyno proven that these kits do work, the charts do not lie.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtechlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> just by adding these kits 2-3 hp increases. so i know for a fact that they do help. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Whats the margin of error for these dynos? Ever thought of that?

 

its kinda hard to believe that the margin can be off on every dyno

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtechlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all im stating is that it has been dyno proven that these kits do work, the charts do not lie. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Was one of these tests the one I saw were they had it on a WRX? A TURBO WRX? The kind of car that has heat-soak and what not on the dyno were every pull is gonna be a little differrent and they claimed 2-3 hp?

 

not only on wrx but also a 240 sx, honda civic, ive seen an eclipse rs and a 200 sx with all the same results. and thats only what ive seen, but whatever im done arguing with you over something ive seen personally work more that one time on more thatn one dyno

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtechlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not only on wrx but also a 240 sx, honda civic, ive seen an eclipse rs and a 200 sx with all the same results. and thats only what ive seen, but whatever im done arguing with you over something ive seen personally work more that one time on more thatn one dyno</TD></TR></TABLE>

So, did it work as good as the tornado in the tail pipe?

 

95prelude, if you indeed have a degree then you will no doubt know that fluctuations in impedance caused by bad connections, dry joints and corroding or fractured cables cause lots of noise in signals, reducing this can only be good, i would imagine replacing a system made by the cheapest bidder (i.e. stock) for something purpose made for higher performance would achieve this, agreed power gains would be marginal but they are still there

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95PreludeSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So, did it work as good as the tornado in the tail pipe?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think its funny how you have to insult something on a completely different subject. that was just something i thought about one day and wanted to see if anyone had any ideas on the matter, but glad you had to sink to that level

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtechlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok let me refraise the faster moving current to more freely moving current. </TD></TR></TABLE>

tell me how would current move faster with out changing the total resistance of the system and with out raising the voltage?

 

Doesn't electricity take the path of least resistance?

Aren't you limited by your smallest ground?

Just wondering.

 

The "path of least resistance" would be your LARGEST ground cable, not the smallest.

My only comment is that, at least for the 3rd gens, the battery ground cable chassis and transmission attachments are on the smallish side and tend to rust. I have replaced with fat cables using the transmission/motor mount bolts (big) for attachment.

I find that my eyesight has greatly improved while driving.

Oh yeah, that gadget. I would dearly love to tear one apart to see what's inside. I'm betting it's "potted" so that yiou can't do it. That's an attractive case though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pizzamanprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">95prelude, if you indeed have a degree then you will no doubt know that fluctuations in impedance caused by bad connections, dry joints and corroding or fractured cables cause lots of noise in signals, reducing this can only be good, i would imagine replacing a system made by the cheapest bidder (i.e. stock) for something purpose made for higher performance would achieve this, agreed power gains would be marginal but they are still there</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, and you also would have read were I said that this kit does nothing assuming your ground wires are in good shape.

And if you honestly think that honda uses the cheapest **** in your cars you are sadly mistaken. You think the ground wires assembled by some idiot who went to Home depot and putchased some 8 gauge wire for 1$ and sold it to you for 50$ is better than OE?

It's amazing what kind of crap you guys will buy.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtechlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i think its funny how you have to insult something on a completely different subject. that was just something i thought about one day and wanted to see if anyone had any ideas on the matter, but glad you had to sink to that level</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think it's funny how you got butt hurt from me defending my original statement by saying I was wrong b/c you read otherwise from Superstreet. Did you think I was spouting off BS? No, I do electrical stuff for a living. Excuse me for trying to save the other board members a buck by calling the kit what it is.

Also, I was pointing out your previous post as you seemed to be easily reeled in by gimick ideas... the tornado doesn't work, just incase you didn't know.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GlenWatkins &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh yeah, that gadget. I would dearly love to tear one apart to see what's inside. I'm betting it's "potted" so that yiou can't do it. That's an attractive case though.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

My guess is a big cap that would cost a lot less than 150$

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GlenWatkins &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The "path of least resistance" would be your LARGEST ground cable, not the smallest.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly. So bigger grounding wires are better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95PreludeSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And if you honestly think that honda uses the cheapest **** in your cars you are sadly mistaken. You think the ground wires assembled by some idiot who went to Home depot and putchased some 8 gauge wire for 1$ and sold it to you for 50$ is better than OE?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you ever seen a main ground wire on a stock honda? They are not even insulated fully. When I replaced mine it was completely corroded, and I only had 50k miles. So yes $2 of 4 gauge wire would provide a better connection.

 

95prelude you really need to look at some of the things on your car, hondas are good and reliable but they are not the amazing piece of guilded engineering you seem to think they are. stop being an ignorant **** and discuss things, dont just assume no one else here has a degree and everyone who doesn't is an idiot