My b18a swap is done and it feels quick, but I'm going to need something more. I have an s1 tranny so that helps alot, but I really want more quickness. I looked into the LS/VTEC and found this: http://www.phatwhippincrx.20m.com/custom4.html

I really just want to skip the ls/vtec and go turbo running 6-8 psi without hurting my wallet too bad. SS auto chrome is cheap, but I've heard bad things. What do you guys recommend? I'd need new a new fuel system with a turbo correct? Let me know.....

 

Build it and boost it!!!

 

Fuel management is key.

http://www.homemadeturbo.com > *

 

SSauto is good for blow off valves,wastegates,intercoolers etc.Avoid the manifold for sure they are complete garbage and the turbo's are a gamble.Go do some reading on HMT and PGMFI.org and put together a solid basic kit for around $1000 and your car will stomp any LS/vtec you ocme across. You will need new larger injectors[DSM 450cc ] and a means to control them through a chipped ecu and a program like Turbo Edit.

 

If I could get the following for $1,000 used what would you say? Right now its for sale in my area and I'm thing about snatching it up. What else would I need?

-Turbonetics t3/t04e .48 a/r 50 trim
-Drag cast exhaust manifold
-Tial 38mm wastegate
-Statinless steel intercooler piping
-good sized front mount
-blitz dual-drive b.o.v.
-vortech t-rex auxiliary inline fuel pump
-vortech fmu (12:1 disc)
-2.5” downpipe with flexpipe 3” cat
-missing link map sensor bypass
-speedaire manual boost control

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ef n00b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I could get the following for $1,000 used what would you say? Right now its for sale in my area and I'm thing about snatching it up. What else would I need?

-Turbonetics t3/t04e .48 a/r 50 trim
-Drag cast exhaust manifold
-Tial 38mm wastegate
-Statinless steel intercooler piping
-good sized front mount
-blitz dual-drive b.o.v.
-vortech t-rex auxiliary inline fuel pump
-vortech fmu (12:1 disc)
-2.5” downpipe with flexpipe 3” cat
-missing link map sensor bypass
-speedaire manual boost control </TD></TR></TABLE>


Good price man,,i would get it...I never really like the wastegate placement on the drag manifold but.....Make sure to check the turbo for shaft play before you get it...also make sure it comes with all the oil feed and return lines,fittings,etc..and downpipe...you may need to run a 1/2 radiator..

Thats all you need...FMU and inline fuel pump is the fuel management,,its good for low boost setups ~6-8 psi..

I dont think you can use the missing link on your motor since you have a firewall mounted map.....So get yourself some checkvalves for that....

Also it would be wise to pull back some timing for the boost...

Its a good starter kit with good potential and you can always upgrade to better fuel management later if you want more...

 

That isnt to bad but i would sell the inline pump,FMU and missing link and get your ecu chipped,then pick up some DSM 450's.You could probably get enough by selling the pump.FMU and missing link that it would pay for a chipped ecu and some DSM's which go for $50-60 then you would have a pretty solid kit for cheap.

 

I have a B18A w/ :

Crower 403 cams
B16 PR3 pistons 20 over stock
blox intake
dc header
2.25" exhaust

I have layed the smack down on many SRT-4's and VW's in autox. A turbo would be a good higher speed racing option, unfortunately reliability goes way the f down. A supercharger would be a better roadrace/autox option.

 

Honestly though, how much will a turbo decrease reliability if you're using 6-8 psi?

Is it like "oh now it won't last 200,000+ miles" or more like "you'll be needing a new engine in a few thousand" ??

 

the reliability factor depends on the quality or shape your turbo parts are in and on how you drive and maintain your car. boosting 6-8lbs alone is not gonna drop reliability by much at all.

i would also recommend dropping the fmu, check valves and going for something like turboedit with some dsm 450cc injectors.

more than likely unless the parts u listed are from an ef, they will have to be modded for the ef chassis, things like the charge piping, radiator, etc...

dont bother with the ssautochrome stuff, a decent mild steel log, or cast manifold is your best option for reliability

 

Dont go N/A B18a, its a money pit without results.

I build a B18a, 403, I/h/e, a little headwork, cam gears, and it wasnt at all fast. I spend a bucketload and was throughly unimpressed.

Either go b18T or LS/Vtec, if ur going LS/Vtec make sure u get a b16 or b17 cable tranny.

 

OK you guys are right. Just quit making it sound like it as reliable as a non-blown motor, cause they are far from it.

I am also bitter cause I want to turbo charge my CRX but can't cause I am a poor college student. *Jealous rage ensues*

 

a wild N/A car is far from reliable. Any car that is driven hard will more than likely have problems.