car gets painted next week and i was wondering somthing
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From: Look hard, VA, United States
the dude said he is gonna spray it then clear it and he was done
but i asked him if he was going to wetsand and buff and he said no....... dont you have to do that to get a nice look and how much do you think it will cost if i take it somewhere to get it wetsanded and buffed
but i asked him if he was going to wetsand and buff and he said no....... dont you have to do that to get a nice look and how much do you think it will cost if i take it somewhere to get it wetsanded and buffed
If the painter is decent and can spray without getting orange peel, than it will look just fine without wetsanding/buffing.
Not always. With proper technique it can come out very smooth. If the painter has alot of expierience under his belt than you wont have any problems. Dont get me wrong wetsanding/buffing will make a big difference but isnt always needed.
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From: Look hard, VA, United States
lol but he has no paintbooth
he does it in his garage but has a huge fan and wets it down
he does it in his garage but has a huge fan and wets it down
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowryder227 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol but he has no paintbooth
he does it in his garage but has a huge fan and wets it down</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha ok well again it can still be applied smoothly but not likely. There will be alot of overspray which will make it look very dull. So def wetsanding/buffing will be needed.
Also in those conditions theres bound to be dirt/dust floating around. The only way to fix imperfections like that is wetsand/buff. I work in a body shop and the the price of wetsanding/buff is included with the entire job. I dont work in a detail shop so i couldnt give you a price of that job.
he does it in his garage but has a huge fan and wets it down</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha ok well again it can still be applied smoothly but not likely. There will be alot of overspray which will make it look very dull. So def wetsanding/buffing will be needed.
Also in those conditions theres bound to be dirt/dust floating around. The only way to fix imperfections like that is wetsand/buff. I work in a body shop and the the price of wetsanding/buff is included with the entire job. I dont work in a detail shop so i couldnt give you a price of that job.
the wetsanding should really only be used to sand the dust nibs out of the clear. a slight amount of orance peel is normal. unless its a showcar most people dont bother to wetsand the peel out. as far as the comments about it being dull because overspray, i dont really agree with that. if its done correctly you wont have that problem.
For the last paint job I paid about $2500, a full colour change and it still needed to be wet sanded and buffed a little; however it still looks incredible 4 years later.
IMO I wouldn't use someone who paints cars in their garage.
IMO I wouldn't use someone who paints cars in their garage.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike9571 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not always. With proper technique it can come out very smooth. If the painter has alot of expierience under his belt than you wont have any problems. Dont get me wrong wetsanding/buffing will make a big difference but isnt always needed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
true story, if he is a good painter then there is absouletly no need to wetsand and buff, unless there is dust in the clear
true story, if he is a good painter then there is absouletly no need to wetsand and buff, unless there is dust in the clear
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nikolai. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the wetsanding should really only be used to sand the dust nibs out of the clear. a slight amount of orance peel is normal. unless its a showcar most people dont bother to wetsand the peel out. as far as the comments about it being dull because overspray, i dont really agree with that. if its done correctly you wont have that problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You have to remember hes not spraying in a booth. Therefor the clear is just going to wonder around.
You have to remember hes not spraying in a booth. Therefor the clear is just going to wonder around.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nikolai. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it doesnt matter. if hes using the right temperature activator the clear will stay wet and will absorb the overspray. i think you are confusing overspray with dry spray, which can result in a rough finish.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Even if he does use the correct activator it wont absorb all of the overspray. Lets say hes starting with the roof, and finishes up with the rear bumper. By the time hes reached the rear bumper, the roof will have tacked up some. And the overspray coming from the bumper will reach the roof.
Even if he does use the correct activator it wont absorb all of the overspray. Lets say hes starting with the roof, and finishes up with the rear bumper. By the time hes reached the rear bumper, the roof will have tacked up some. And the overspray coming from the bumper will reach the roof.
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