hey...recently my car started to have this clicking/ripping noise when i turn right...

i finally took off my wheel and saw this...


as you can see...the boot is ripped...

but what boot is this? and can i just buy a relacement part? anyone know how i can fix?



the boot on the left is the axle...but the boot on the right is the one that is ripped

now its making this loud *** squeeky noise...

 

that is your steering tie rod, have it inspected, cleaned and replaced with a new boot and it should be fine

 

should i get a new steering tie rod or just the boot?

is there a DIY that can show me?

i suck at this ****

 

Looks like it just needs a new boot and some grease.

Unless the tie rod is bent or needs a new balljoint, no need to replace it.

 

thats your rack and pinion boot. get that thing changed asap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Darren- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats your rack and pinion boot. get that thing changed asap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if im able to....i want to be able to do it myself...is there a DIY or something?

anyone have a write up? i know shops charge a grip for any auto service...


so what is it? tie rod or rack and pinion boot?

http://www.autopartswarehouse....Boots

would this be it?

 

autozone has the boot for that, i think its 13 bucks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by qfast817 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">autozone has the boot for that, i think its 13 bucks</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats cool....

im just wondering which boot it is...
i got 2 diff answers...

 

PMed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STD ****** &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PMed</TD></TR></TABLE>

replied!

 

another option would be a split boot that you can just fill with grease and slip over, however they don't tend to last too long.

 

i have that same problem on the same side. when you find that write up, post a link. i just subscribe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sic_DC_FOE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if im able to....i want to be able to do it myself...is there a DIY or something?

anyone have a write up? i know shops charge a grip for any auto service...


so what is it? tie rod or rack and pinion boot?

http://www.autopartswarehouse....Boots

would this be it?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

no thats not it.


this is what you want. also its a simple job, and you might be able to find a write up for it on http://www.team-integra.net/index.asp in the article section.

http://replacement.autopartswa...false

 

i read on team integra that its not that major...unless you drive like that for a long *** time...

dont get me wrong...i will fix it soon

edit// 1k POST!!

 

napa auto parts sells these boots. I like napa cause they always carry hard to find stuff, or you can get it from the dealer. The thing with replacing the boot is that you have to take off your tie rods, clean it and grease it up, put boot on there and then put the tie rods back on. After all is said and done, your car will need an alignment. Napa auto parts boots comes with zip ties instead of the metal ties that OEM has, which i think works just as good. They're like $16 bucks per boot.

 

yeah...imma get my fellow co workers to do it...

 

Its the inner tie rod boot/Steering Rack boot has multiple names.. but for gods sake PLEASE go to the dealer and buy the OEM boot... I bought a moog one and it took me 3 hours of fighting trying to get it to fit till i decided its to small, got the oem one and it took 5 minutes...

Anyways, what you need to do is take off the outer tie rod end, unscrew the nut on there, count your turns so your alignment wont be too far off..

losen the clamp on the inner side of the boot, it just slides right off.. take the new one, slide it right on, replace clamp, replace outer tie rod, 10 minute job.. and im pretty sure they dont require any kind of grease, its just a dustgaurd

 

well...after my boot ripped, i noticed a loud squeaky noise now.

its comming from the passenger front...
anyone have any idea what i should look for?

imma try to inspect it tomrrow, but i probably wont know whats wrong..hahaha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sic_DC_FOE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well...after my boot ripped, i noticed a loud squeaky noise now.

its comming from the passenger front...
anyone have any idea what i should look for?

imma try to inspect it tomrrow, but i probably wont know whats wrong..hahaha</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is it all the time? When your turning? Check the wheel bearing..

Jack the car up and try to wiggle the wheel toward you and toward the car if it moves you need new wheel bearing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spectrum24x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Is it all the time? When your turning? Check the wheel bearing..

Jack the car up and try to wiggle the wheel toward you and toward the car if it moves you need new wheel bearing</TD></TR></TABLE>

all the time

 

Wheel Bearing

I just went through that on both of my front wheels.. Turned out i needed new hubs too, even doing all the work myself (except for pressing) It cost me almost 500 bucks..

Do what i said to test it, and if it does move a lot toward you and back toward the car.. its not to hard to change, just take your knuckle off (lower balljoint, upper balljoin, tie rod end, strut fork bolt, axle bolt and pull off) Then take off your rotor you can get a new bearing at auto zone, they are around 70 bucks then take the knuckle and new bearing to a shop that has a machine press.. they can press out the hub, and replace the wheel bearing for you, around 30 bucks.. Just hope you dont need new hub like i did, its a dealer only item that costs around 180 bucks

Good luck, lemme know how it goes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spectrum24x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wheel Bearing

I just went through that on both of my front wheels.. Turned out i needed new hubs too, even doing all the work myself (except for pressing) It cost me almost 500 bucks..

Do what i said to test it, and if it does move a lot toward you and back toward the car.. its not to hard to change, just take your knuckle off (lower balljoint, upper balljoin, tie rod end, strut fork bolt, axle bolt and pull off) Then take off your rotor you can get a new bearing at auto zone, they are around 70 bucks then take the knuckle and new bearing to a shop that has a machine press.. they can press out the hub, and replace the wheel bearing for you, around 30 bucks.. Just hope you dont need new hub like i did, its a dealer only item that costs around 180 bucks

Good luck, lemme know how it goes</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn thats a lot of ****!

 

Sounds like a lot, but each thing i listed is only 1 bolt and a pin.. the hardest thing is seperating the ball joints.. it shouldnt take but 20 mins to get all of it off..

But shake it and test it first, i'd hate for you to go through all this and not need a wheel bearing.. check your brakes first too, if the pads are worn it'll squeel but if its ALL THE TIME, more likely to be a bearing

 

so i should pull the rotor towards me then push it towards the car?

 

Just with the wheel still on the car, wiggle it holding top and bottom