06 Hondata Reflash (stock vs. toda)
Hey everyone,
I am wondering about the 2 reflashes they offer?
The stock reflash vtec kicks in at 5600 and the toda race header reflash kicks in at 4200.
Would it hurt to run the race header reflash until i get a header, that way my vtec will kick in at 4200? will it make me any slower?
Any info will be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance
(I searched but I couldn't find anything i think the search engine is messed up)
Modified by Kingsta18 at 8:12 PM 6/28/2006
Modified by Kingsta18 at 8:37 PM 6/28/2006
I am wondering about the 2 reflashes they offer?
The stock reflash vtec kicks in at 5600 and the toda race header reflash kicks in at 4200.
Would it hurt to run the race header reflash until i get a header, that way my vtec will kick in at 4200? will it make me any slower?
Any info will be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance
(I searched but I couldn't find anything i think the search engine is messed up)
Modified by Kingsta18 at 8:12 PM 6/28/2006
Modified by Kingsta18 at 8:37 PM 6/28/2006
i asked the same question. they said the issue is that the stock header won't flow enough.... but that could very well be total bullshit so who knows... i am thinking about getting the stock one even when i do get my J's header because i don't think for street driving i want v'tec kicking in that soon. especially on the freeway... at 90 i'm well above 4000 rpm's.
I thoght Hondata was tunable?
There is no way to tell where the VTEC point should be without running dyno charts. It's really obvious after the first run.
There is no way to tell where the VTEC point should be without running dyno charts. It's really obvious after the first run.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s2kb0i »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the 2006's arent a piggyback like other hondata models... this is just a reflash similar to how VW tuners do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>sucks that anything lower than an 06 isnt reflaashable...FU Honda
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The 4200 vtec version of the reflash claims it uses an rpm window and throttle position to decide to turn vtec on: at full throttle, vtec comes in at 4200 but otherwise delays vtec based on throttle setting. So, I would think that at freeway cruse vtec would nto be on. But, anytime you're over 4200 if you floor it, vtec should come on instantly. Read more about it at hondata.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lucky13AP2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heard raising the vtec level is better for power? mid range to top end power?</TD></TR></TABLE>
it all depends what your goal is.
thats the problem, people do not know what kind of power they want and what setup they are going with. you need to stick to one area for the motor and do it 100% right
it all depends what your goal is.
thats the problem, people do not know what kind of power they want and what setup they are going with. you need to stick to one area for the motor and do it 100% right
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FR-MOB: Francesco »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it all depends what your goal is.
thats the problem, people do not know what kind of power they want and what setup they are going with. you need to stick to one area for the motor and do it 100% right
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do either of the reflashes increase our timming dramatically or about same as stock just lowers vtec for the most part?
it all depends what your goal is.
thats the problem, people do not know what kind of power they want and what setup they are going with. you need to stick to one area for the motor and do it 100% right
</TD></TR></TABLE>Do either of the reflashes increase our timming dramatically or about same as stock just lowers vtec for the most part?
I drove an 06, one of the track event participants, with a slew of bolt-ons, including 4.56FD, and an 8500 redline. Car pulls really strong, and the only thing that kept that car back was the fully loaded interior, passenger (him), and mediocre tires.
IIRC he made 237bhp.
IIRC he made 237bhp.
see, that's what I'm kinda worried about, Is the 600 worth the extra 500 redline and vtec lowered. I dynoed 229 a month ago. . bone stock w/airbox lid off
granted the lowered vtec wouldn't effect the HP, and the graph showed my hp still climbing but starting to level off at 8000
granted the lowered vtec wouldn't effect the HP, and the graph showed my hp still climbing but starting to level off at 8000
The lowered redline helps at the tracks, so that you don't fall out of VTEC between 1st -2nd and 2nd-3rd shifts. That's where they make the money. Crossover feels a lot smoother as well. According to Mugen/Honda, the 2.2 is good to 8800rpms, so you're safe in that department. As far as power goes, it does have a bit more top end than my car, but somehow the DBW is a wee bit sluggish on the downshift/heel and toe.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MD06LBP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's weird. Mustang dynos are known for reading low.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's usually true, unless the TCF is off, or he got a secret Mugen motor slipped in there.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's usually true, unless the TCF is off, or he got a secret Mugen motor slipped in there.
I too was told that MD normally read lower than others. . so I couldn't figure it out. The first time I read 225hp 164tq that was with the air box cover on
then i ran two more times with the air box lid off. The second time it read 227.3hp & 164.4tq then the third and final was 229hp, & 165.8tq
BTW what is TCF?
then i ran two more times with the air box lid off. The second time it read 227.3hp & 164.4tq then the third and final was 229hp, & 165.8tq
BTW what is TCF?


