I have a turbo gsr obviously, with a ball bearing gt 50/34 turbo, on stock injectors, and is tuned to the point where it will run safely. The timing on the car is really low. My problem is that the car will pull real hard when i first turn it on, but as it heats up it seems like i loose all of my power. I am boosting 6.5 lbs of boost. After the car heats up the car just seems to lose, i would say about 50 horse power. Now your probably thinking that it does this in hot weather, which i know all cars run bad in hot weather, but it does this at night when it is about 60 degrees. The car does not over heat or anything of that nature, but will go to about the mid point oon the temperature gauge. Sometimes when im not beating on my car and just cruising, the temperature will drop signifcantly. Then once I get on it, the temperature will rise to the temperature that it was at.

The car runs so hot that i cannot even touch the dipstick. and the hood gets very hot as well. I think the problem might have been the fact that i had the original fuel filter on the car, but when i changed it the problem still remained.

if anyone has any ideas let me know please

 

HEat sink is your problem. An ecu will actually pull fuel and timing when temps raise too high. You should invest in some cooling products like a Rad or spoon/mugen therm... An oil cooler is a great idea as well as some sort of venting to and from the engine bay....

 

yea i was told i should get a 160 degreee thermostat, instead of the stock thermo which i think is a 180 degree. Ive never heard of an oil cooler before, but i am going to heat wrap all the intercooler piping, and my air filter is still inside my engine bay and right off the turbo. is practically touching my piping off the manifold, so i am going to put it under my fender where it belongs.

 

yea, little steps like that can help. If you need a spoon therm and rad cap I have them. New cap/used therm... only 1000 miles on the therm. Took it out cause I have a Fluidyne. Cap didn't fit aftermarket rad...OEM only.

oil coolers can save a motors' life. Trust me... Especially since the oil on your car is also cooling the turbine housing and center cartridge...I would look into that... i know Moroso makes a kit as well as B&M...B&M is a very complete kit...you'll be happy. I wouldn't worry about wrapping the intercooler piping so much as the down pipe or area around your oil pan.

 

what would a radiator cap do? my turbo is water cooled, not oil cooled. i was planning on wrapping the downpipe to, but i honestly think my ecu is somehow fucked up. could that be why my car runs hot, bc it always ran real hot when it wasnt turboed, unless it was in like 50 degree weather.

 

do you think that stock injectors could be the problem also?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogsr18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you think that stock injectors could be the problem also?</TD></TR></TABLE>

although you are tuned, those stock injectors can not be doing anything good for you. They most likely are wayyy past their duty cycle.

 

well it always seemed like my car had a hard time sensing the temp even before it was turbo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogsr18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what would a radiator cap do? my turbo is water cooled, not oil cooled. i was planning on wrapping the downpipe to, but i honestly think my ecu is somehow fucked up. could that be why my car runs hot, bc it always ran real hot when it wasnt turboed, unless it was in like 50 degree weather.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A cap will prevent the release valve from opening too soon. Resulting in a higher coolant pressure, which further translates into better cooling properties of the coolant. If your turbo is infact water cooled you absolutly need a therm or a rad or both...i would push you towards both.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogsr18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you think that stock injectors could be the problem also?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your stock injectors would not cause added heat...that I've ever heard of... Given that amount of boost that you are working with your injectors should be fine. Although, some 450 DSM injectors are cheap and would give you more room to play with...

 

you're tuned with what? i don't see how you can run stock injectors... unless you're running an fmu and there is no tuning wit that.

i'd advice you to take it very easy on your car because something doesn't seem right.

my car ran fine on a civic radiator with fmu. boosting 9psi.

 

your head could be lifting from the block if the head studs are not properly torqued

 

Thats a good point...what condition is the headgasket in? What condition is the motor in?

 

im the same person before, this site only lets you post 5 posts per hour bc ima trial user. but my car has arp head studs, from when i was spraying it, i only sprayed it maybe 4-5 times before going with turbo the motor has 75k on it. I dont beat on my car extensivly and it has been well maintained. However my fuel pump does make a winding noise, i just remembered this. i have a walbro pump in there, it was used and from my cousin. maybe i did not install it right or maybe its a boo boo pump. but yea it makes a lot of noise, and i dont know if that is bc my car is gutted or yea maybe its fucked up and my car isnt getting enough fuel, which would lean it out. am i correct in saying this, bc i am not that car smart, but yea.

 

people say the walbro fuel pump is noisey. (although mine doesn't seem to be) but if you have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up, check it and make sure it holds.

personally, i think you have a blown headgasket. you should take your head off to check the gasket (might as well replace it now) and retorque the head down to proper specs.

also look into running a catch can/breather kit.

 

did you replace the headgasket when you put the arp head studs in?

and what did you torque them to?

 

yea its probably the headgasket, if u change it might as well get a thicker head gasket to drop your compression it will make ur motor a lil safer for higher boost. get a hks steel head gasket or cometics one... i can get you one

 

the head gasket was changed when the studs were done.

 

head gasket is cometics

 

were the head studs new or used?

and did you torque them in the proper sequence and how many piunds did you torque them to?

 

studs were new, and i had them professionally installed.

 

get some dsm 450cc injectors, pretty cheap, and good
autozone has a radiator fan control relay, let's you set the temp the fans go on, 32-250 degrees, it's like $15

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rkrone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
autozone has a radiator fan control relay, let's you set the temp the fans go on, 32-250 degrees, it's like $15</TD></TR></TABLE>

Fine for when the car sits but not efficient when the car is moving... If you want lower water temps, there is no question that you need a therm or a rad. Period.. I would STRONGLY suggest an oil cooler...

 

do the dsm inj. upgrade

you cant see **** for boost, or make good power at all on stockers

as for the oil cooler it would be nice but not at all nessacry, sorry, but i believe you have a tuning issue

 

I would agree with you except that the motor was running hot before the install...

Ill have to contradict you on the cooler...I believe it would be beneficial if not necessary...

 

i just got done building a 2.2l gsr golden eagle sleeved, with a blowzilla turbo and aem ems, for a customer

it runs below the half way mark no matter how hard its beat on.

no oil cool, half size fluidyne rad!

last week i did a 00 si with a turbonetics t60/1 bb, stock motor and dsm inj.'s with the stock rad and no oil cooler. again ran at normal 210-220degrees