???

 

0 psi is the safest.

 

http://www.turbod16.com

^ Awesome website for anything you need to know about boosting any d16 motor.

 

You can run upto 13 pounds racing. And i would run about 5-7 daily. I run 10 lbs daily on stock internals. And it's running great.

 

Yeah, talk to the guys over at turbo D16

 

alright well i want to boost but on a budget. how much do you think a turbo kit with everything i need turbo, intercooler, injectors ( im getting y8 injectors and heard they are good for about 150 hp), ect. i only want to run aboout 6 psi. also the kits on ebay for 1k? / ?

 

Well the turbo kit comes with turbo, piping, intercooler, manifold, waste gate, and BOV = Blow Off Valve. And you can get some 350cc injectors off http://www.summitracing.com for about 75$ a piece.

 

So your saying somthing like this would sufice? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem

then get injectors?

 

^^^

 

that would be a good starter turbo. and thats pretty nice setup. But yea get that then order your injectors. And make sure you do some tuning. And try to get your hands on a chipped ecu. for better fuel.

 

would y8 injectors be ok for now?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKEJ6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would y8 injectors be ok for now?</TD></TR></TABLE>
they are teh same so no. just get something that is above 300cc's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohcvtec1995 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
they are teh same so no. just get something that is above 300cc's</TD></TR></TABLE>

they are not the same, y7 uses 190cc injectors unlike the y8 which uses 240cc's.

safely and cheap do not go well with boost.
cheap, fast, reliable, pick two, you wont get all 3.

 

I have a buddy who was running a T3 with a log style manifold, a 12:1 Vortech FMU, a missing link, d16y8 240cc injectors, external wastegate with a 6 psi spring, 1 step colder NGK plugs, and he retarded his timing about 2 degrees and he took it to the dyno and the guys at the dyno told him not to touch anything b/c they wouldn't even be able to tune it much better than what it was running.

It was cheap (under $1000 for everything :IC piping, DP etc), reliable (made numerous 200+ mile one way trips) and fast for an SOHC non VTEC (145whp, 160wtq). He had all three.

 

145whp is not fast. well, maybe to some, but nowhere near 200whp. probably a high 14 sec car "your buddy" had. 200whp will go low 14s to high 13s if traction isnt bad.

and an FMU and stock injectors arent nowhere near safe. why would he take it to get tune, what are they gonna do, add static fuel pressure, i call BS.

 

He wasn't taking it to get it tuned, he took it to get it dynoed and they told him not to touch anything b/c they wouldn't be able to tune it any better.

200whp isn't fast to some either but considering it's a y7 and he started out with 73whp, and he now has 145whp, that is a considerable gain.

I'll try to get the dyno sheet from him to post it up. LOSER!

 

Also, as far as safe goes, the hooked a wideband up to it at the dyno! Don't try to come flame me unless you have all the facts.

 

so you are saying stock timing is on any amount of boost is safe??? hmm, either the shop operating the dyno doesnt know what they are doing or they just dont care. either way stock ignition maps arent safe, an FMU might get the a/f descent, but its far from safe as well. in my opinion safe would be a dyno tuned setup that has fuel and timing maps changed by someone that knows what they are doing. anyways, 150whp is all he is looking for i guess it will be fast enough for him, and can be done "cheap", and reliable depends on how heavy his foot is. i just dont believe a shop told someone w/ an FMU and no other means of tuning that its PERFECT. anyways, im not flaming, just stating the facts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you are saying stock timing is on any amount of boost is safe??? hmm, either the shop operating the dyno doesnt know what they are doing or they just dont care. either way stock ignition maps arent safe, an FMU might get the a/f descent, but its far from safe as well. in my opinion safe would be a dyno tuned setup that has fuel and timing maps changed by someone that knows what they are doing. anyways, 150whp is all he is looking for i guess it will be fast enough for him, and can be done "cheap", and reliable depends on how heavy his foot is. i just dont believe a shop told someone w/ an FMU and no other means of tuning that its PERFECT. anyways, im not flaming, just stating the facts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im with him.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wicked-Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can run upto 13 pounds racing. And i would run about 5-7 daily. I run 10 lbs daily on stock internals. And it's running great.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And it depends on the size of the turbo. A better question to ask would be how much whp can I run saftly? Probably 200.

 

there is no answer to this question, perfect tune, top quality parts, and not much beating it will handle 250whp easily if its in good shape. so many things factor in though, biggest being tune, which should be THE most expensive part.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you are saying stock timing is on any amount of boost is safe??? hmm, either the shop operating the dyno doesnt know what they are doing or they just dont care. either way stock ignition maps arent safe, an FMU might get the a/f descent, but its far from safe as well. in my opinion safe would be a dyno tuned setup that has fuel and timing maps changed by someone that knows what they are doing. anyways, 150whp is all he is looking for i guess it will be fast enough for him, and can be done "cheap", and reliable depends on how heavy his foot is. i just dont believe a shop told someone w/ an FMU and no other means of tuning that its PERFECT. anyways, im not flaming, just stating the facts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm trying to figure out why it's far from safe if the AFRs are good. Isn't that the whole point of having it tuned? Isn't a lean a/f mixture bad, therefore you have it tuned to get a stoich - rich mixture so there isn't any detonation? Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

you are wrong, you think lean detonation is the only type there is??? wrong, you think running lean is what kills a majority of boosted motors??? WRONG again. timing is just as important if not more important than fuel. if not why not just run an assload of fuel and timing, would it detonate??? its not lean, what do you think??? wanna argue still???? sorry to hurt your feelings.

http://members.aol.com/DVAndrews/timing.htm just incase you dont believe me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cambopheonix56 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it depends on the size of the turbo. A better question to ask would be how much whp can I run saftly? Probably 200.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes sir. 10psi on a small turbo is not equal to 10psi on a larger one.

 

DO NOT BUY AN EBAY TURBO KIT!!!!!!!!!