Hi, Im new to the forum so i would appreciate the help with this issue.
I recently purchased a 92 Si 5 speed h23. Its completely stock with just an intake i paid 2500 bucks for it and i love the car havent had any problems(except the hesitation and backfiring) with it except a blown heater hose. Anyways, this one problem has been plauging me, its not that serious but its just annoying. When the car is cold is runs good, tranny is a little notchy but other then that its cool. However, after it heats up the engine starts to hesitate at lower RPMs and occationally if i smash it from below 2k rpm the engine backfires. The check engine light also comes on after warmup. I dont have time to go get the code checked.
I recently changed the following, Fuel Filter,Oxygen Sensor, Plugs(bosch platinum),Wires(Bosch),Cap and rotor(MSD). I am leaning toward a bad EGR valve, but im not sure. I have also sea foamed my car once to clean out all the gunk that might have built up around the injectors and valves it ran better after that....so if someone has the same problem let me know how u remedied this issue.
Thanks
chris

 

bumple...anyone?

 

post the code and we can help you more

 

have you checked timing? that usually helps with the hesitation...

as for your backfire (what i assume you are talking about is actually afterfire) is unburnt fuel still burning as it exits your exhaust system, indicating an issue that would also relate to timing (the fuel isn't being burnt entirely in your cylinder), so then the exhaust valves open, and that unburnt fuel is travelling out your exhaust and burning creating the pops.

perhaps you've checked timing, but if you haven't - pick up a cheap gun at walmart or somewhere open the peephole, and strobe that sucker. oh yea - and don't forget to jump at the service connector

 

Hesistation at low RPM's could even be caused by an uneven flywheel correct?

 

cool thanks for the insite...im going to have my friend check the timing, hes got a gun.....Ill get the code checked when i have time, i just dont want to pay someone 50 bucks to plug in a 70 dollar code reader to tell me what i already know. Also for some reason now its idling pretty high..ugh so many little things add up to one big headache. Alrighty then thanks guys...
chris

 

autozone will read your codes for free

 

you have a 4th gen.. a pre 96 4th gen to boot (ie: obd1). so you don't need code readers to read your codes. You just have to jump the service connector under the radio console (you can pull it out from the drivers side, i believe it's a lil blue connector) - just jump it with a paperclip - and count off the flashes - the shorts - and then the longs. it really is the first step to diagnosing your probs. another good reason to get familiar with that service connector - is because it HAS to be jumped in order to adjust your timing. your ecu will compensate for any adjustments you make at the dizzy otherwise.. so you won't end up achieving much - if the service connector isn't jumped.

finally, i'd get your timing ballpark.. unplug the IACV, and adjust your idle.. and then recheck timing... (or perhaps just start with adjusting your idle and then do timing) just make sure both fall in the range you want when it's all said and done.

best of luck.

 

thanks for the paperclip trick and I had no idea that autozone will read the codes...anyways I was going to have my friend check the timing and my dumb *** couldnt find the service connector, i took out my radio looking for it, but i think i mistook it for a radio connector....anyways, we just hooked up the timing light to check the spark, and its sparking irradically on all cylinders, but the engine doesnt vibrate more then normal. So I have a feeling that its a bad dizzy, thats about 100 bucks after core return from Kragen, not too bad.
I guess on thursday when im not working 15 hours ill go to autozone down the street and have them read my code, because I failed morse code class in my special forces training .
Oh yea one more thing, would a bad distributor lead to crappy fuel economy, because im getting like 15-19 mpg on the street and like 24 on the freeway, is this just normal for a high mileage honda engine. My supra turbo used to get better MPG..
alright then guys thanks alot, I want to get this fixed because this car is my only means of transport right now and if it breaks down im in a whole load of ****.

 

ok im going to go get the code read right now, i hope its just the distributor...

 

ok, well now i officially hate autozone...i called them this morning at like 9:30 and asked would their scanner read obd1 cars because i have a 92 honda, and the woman on the other end said, YEA! Well i get there, and they tell me its a 200 dollar rental deposit, whatever, so i am about to rent this damn thing and i ask offhandedly after driving through morning rush hour traffic and standing at the counter with no one helping me out for like 10 mins . WILL THIS WORK FOR OBD1 CARS. And this dumb broad thats helping me says NO only 96 and up obdII. I lost it. I yelled at her saying, I JUST CALLED 30 MINS AGO AND YOU TOLD ME IT WOULD READ A 92 HONDA OBDI. then shes gonna start talking out her neck to me. Saying, YOU KNOW WHAT YOU NEED TO CALM DOWN YOU CALLED ME AND SAID A 96 HONDA. I yelled back, WHY WOULD I THINK MY 92 HONDA PRELUDE IS A 96 HONDA PRELUDE!!!!!! DO I LOOK THAT DUMB TO YOU. She wisely didnt answer cause had she it would have been a misunderstanding no matter what. I told the manager he needs to find someone with a little bit better listening skills. But yea im just gonna go to a shop down the road a ways and have a full electronics diagnosic and tune.

 

here save yourself some trouble


how to read


theres a blue harness with 2 slots behind the radio

make a paperclip jumper shaped like a U

put the jumper in to connect each side on the blue harness


turn key to on (dont start car)

count the flashes from the cel

 

the service connector is the little blue connector behind the radio with like 2 wires running out of it right?

 

ok i just winged it...heres what i got

_ _ _ _ . . . , _ . . . , _ _ . . . , _ _ _ _ . . .

(assuming its repeating the codes i stopped after the first code repeated itself.)


im also pretty sure it went _ _ _ . . ., got kinda confused after the last one, hard to hold the jumper with one hand and write with the other while looking at the light in 104 degree heat.

 

so

43

13

23

you sure

43 is a pita

 

wat do those numbers mean in terms of work/time/money?

 

ok so from what ive researched,

13
BARO Sensor (Atmospheric Pressure)

23 KS (Knock Sensor)

43 Fuel Supply System

no biggy, i was going to replace the fuel system in my car anyways, starting with pump/injectors..

I have no idea what the BARO is..so that might be a problem, and the knock sensor is not a problem to replace..

 

damn just check the prices on all the crap i need to replace, god damn...

BARO-MAP sensor - 270
Knock Sensor - 125
Walbro 255 pump - 100 (Ebay)
Injectors (used 550s) - 80 bucks!
Grand total - $575!
****.

 

i found a knock sensor for a B18 for cheap, the dude says it should work for a H23...is that a fact?

 

Yes, just make sure it uses the same connectors as yours. There are 2 types, the circle one and the square one. If you have a circle one, than any Honda circle connector KS will work.

 

ok, well today i had a friend of mine run a quick emissions check on my car, and i found that its running WAY over on Nitrous Oxide and Carbon Monoxide, would these findings correspond with those parts (map/knock sensors) being broken? let me know.
chris

 

fuel supply system (43) can be a number of things so make sure you eliminate each one. it is a general fuel system fault code which could include injectors/filter/pump

 

i got rid of the old fuel filter, i have a pump on the way and im about to buy the injectors, right now i just need to find out where the damn map sensor is, i have the online manual but that **** takes too damn long to look through..i found one on ebay but im not sure if it will work...

http://img110.imageshack.us/my...h.jpg

it says it s a firewall mounted map sensor...


Modified by BlownH23a at 1:51 PM 6/30/2006

 

ok i just bought the map sensor...i hope its the only thing i need to replace to pass smog, i got it for 40 bucks shipped...


Modified by BlownH23a at 2:09 PM 6/30/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlownH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, well today i had a friend of mine run a quick emissions check on my car, and i found that its running WAY over on Nitrous Oxide and Carbon Monoxide, would these findings correspond with those parts (map/knock sensors) being broken? let me know.
chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

NoX emissions is usually caused by your EGR system, clean our your EGR valve and make sure it is working. CO emissions could be from a bad CAT or 02 sensor. There could also be other things leading to these emissions, but these are the common culprits.