losing power?
Not sure what's really wrong with my car, but I just changed my oil with Royal Purple 5w30 and PureOne oil filter yesterday.
Today I was going on an onramp to my work and it felt like my car wasn't fully putting out... like I felt like I was losing tq or something I don't know?
Last oil change I had Mobil 1 10w30 (dad bought it so I used it) w/ PureOne oil filter and it ran fine.
But now everytime I just keep going like on an onramp or something that is uphill I can just feel the loss.
I have a 94 ls with 180k miles now, 90% highway miles and the last owner took very well care of it, all maintance was done correctly, and I bought it at like 174k miles.
Anyways I have aftermarket intake w/ k&n filter, magnaflow muffler, 17" rota attack w/ 215/40 on HRII's and 2 12" Alpine Type-s subs in or on my car.
Anyways after all that anyone have suggestions on what could be wrong?
Today I was going on an onramp to my work and it felt like my car wasn't fully putting out... like I felt like I was losing tq or something I don't know?
Last oil change I had Mobil 1 10w30 (dad bought it so I used it) w/ PureOne oil filter and it ran fine.
But now everytime I just keep going like on an onramp or something that is uphill I can just feel the loss.
I have a 94 ls with 180k miles now, 90% highway miles and the last owner took very well care of it, all maintance was done correctly, and I bought it at like 174k miles.
Anyways I have aftermarket intake w/ k&n filter, magnaflow muffler, 17" rota attack w/ 215/40 on HRII's and 2 12" Alpine Type-s subs in or on my car.
Anyways after all that anyone have suggestions on what could be wrong?
Did you happen to have smaller wheels before?
Make sure your cat is still in good shape after that many miles. You could just have a loose plug wire or something. Coil could be on its last leg.
I would check all the ignition components unless you have documented proof that that maintenance was performed recently. Dist. cap and rotor are wear items. Your timing belt could be alittle stretched with age, and possibly jumped a tooth on the cam gear which could take power away. Even a weak alternator could make it run less than optimal.
There are just too many possibilities. O2 sensor, oil passing thru spark plug tube seals grounding out the charge to the plugs, all kinds of possibilities. Did it throw any codes? Good luck getting your power back!
Buy a manual for your car and go thru the trouble shooting guide. Nice car by the way.
Make sure your cat is still in good shape after that many miles. You could just have a loose plug wire or something. Coil could be on its last leg.
I would check all the ignition components unless you have documented proof that that maintenance was performed recently. Dist. cap and rotor are wear items. Your timing belt could be alittle stretched with age, and possibly jumped a tooth on the cam gear which could take power away. Even a weak alternator could make it run less than optimal.
There are just too many possibilities. O2 sensor, oil passing thru spark plug tube seals grounding out the charge to the plugs, all kinds of possibilities. Did it throw any codes? Good luck getting your power back!
Buy a manual for your car and go thru the trouble shooting guide. Nice car by the way.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hanskies »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i duno this didnt happen when i used mobil 1 synthetic tho</TD></TR></TABLE>
were you using syn oil all the way? or all the sudden you put them? maybe it;s because of oil thickness.
were you using syn oil all the way? or all the sudden you put them? maybe it;s because of oil thickness.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hanskies »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have a 94 ls with 180k miles now, 90% highway miles and the last owner took very well care of it, all maintance was done correctly, and I bought it at like 174k miles.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1337whp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should be over 200 atleasty</TD></TR></TABLE>
didnt know ls's had compression numbers over 200
I have a 94 ls with 180k miles now, 90% highway miles and the last owner took very well care of it, all maintance was done correctly, and I bought it at like 174k miles.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1337whp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should be over 200 atleasty</TD></TR></TABLE>
didnt know ls's had compression numbers over 200
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1337whp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should be over 200 atleasty</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought LS compression levels should be around 175
I thought LS compression levels should be around 175
why would you put synthetic oil in a stock ls? i don't think it is suppose to take that kind of oil, i thought that only b series take the sythetic oil because of high compression
The OP has a 94 LS which is a B18B engine. It has just slightly higher compression than the B18A engine.
The B18A engine has nominal compression at 185 lbs, min 135, with max var 28.
The B18B compression numbers won't be much different unless there has been modification to the stock engine.
Synthetic motor oil can be used in any engine that requires motor oil. Some people like the added protection and longer oil-change intervals provided by synthetics. I personally use conventional dyno oil, Castrol GTX and have over 294K miles on my B18A, and it is still clean as a whistle inside, doesn't burn oil, and runs like a top.
Oh, and the LS engines are B-series engines, as evidenced by there code, B18A/B, despite what a previous poster stated.
And no, the compression numbers for the B18A/B shouldn't be 'over 200 at least' as stated by a previous poster.
The B18A engine has nominal compression at 185 lbs, min 135, with max var 28.
The B18B compression numbers won't be much different unless there has been modification to the stock engine.
Synthetic motor oil can be used in any engine that requires motor oil. Some people like the added protection and longer oil-change intervals provided by synthetics. I personally use conventional dyno oil, Castrol GTX and have over 294K miles on my B18A, and it is still clean as a whistle inside, doesn't burn oil, and runs like a top.
Oh, and the LS engines are B-series engines, as evidenced by there code, B18A/B, despite what a previous poster stated.
And no, the compression numbers for the B18A/B shouldn't be 'over 200 at least' as stated by a previous poster.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam92Teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The OP has a 94 LS which is a B18B engine. It has just slightly higher compression than the B18A engine.
The B18A engine has nominal compression at 185 lbs, min 135, with max var 28.
The B18B compression numbers won't be much different unless there has been modification to the stock engine.
Synthetic motor oil can be used in any engine that requires motor oil. Some people like the added protection and longer oil-change intervals provided by synthetics. I personally use conventional dyno oil, Castrol GTX and have over 294K miles on my B18A, and it is still clean as a whistle inside, doesn't burn oil, and runs like a top.
Oh, and the LS engines are B-series engines, as evidenced by there code, B18A/B, despite what a previous poster stated.
And no, the compression numbers for the B18A/B shouldn't be 'over 200 at least' as stated by a previous poster.</TD></TR></TABLE>
edit:
From the Honda Integra service manual the B18B1 engine has nominal compression of 199, minimum of 135 and max variance of 28
The B18A engine has nominal compression at 185 lbs, min 135, with max var 28.
The B18B compression numbers won't be much different unless there has been modification to the stock engine.
Synthetic motor oil can be used in any engine that requires motor oil. Some people like the added protection and longer oil-change intervals provided by synthetics. I personally use conventional dyno oil, Castrol GTX and have over 294K miles on my B18A, and it is still clean as a whistle inside, doesn't burn oil, and runs like a top.
Oh, and the LS engines are B-series engines, as evidenced by there code, B18A/B, despite what a previous poster stated.
And no, the compression numbers for the B18A/B shouldn't be 'over 200 at least' as stated by a previous poster.</TD></TR></TABLE>
edit:
From the Honda Integra service manual the B18B1 engine has nominal compression of 199, minimum of 135 and max variance of 28
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1998_4dr_gsr
Acura Integra
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May 19, 2005 05:53 AM





