these are root passes. I will throw down a final bead later when I have time. Let me know what I could improve upon....and please be nice

 

What does the inside look like? That kind of determines the effectiveness of a root pass.

 

I can weld another one up and cut it open.

 

Looks undercut excessively!

 

it's beveled

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paul vang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's beveled</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't matter, a concave weld is horrible, fill it in more. Also clean the pipe, its not clean enough.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Don't matter, a concave weld is horrible, fill it in more. Also clean the pipe, its not clean enough. </TD></TR></TABLE>

reading own's some of you guys as this was his ROOT pass.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedej1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

reading own's some of you guys as this was his ROOT pass.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I missed that, ok but whats the point of showing how this weld is, the weld could look like **** and still be good, until the inside is seen know one will know. He acted like them being bevel and concave was ok, which its not.

 

I used very very little filler, that's why the bevel is not filled. Those are the bevels made by the manufacturer of the weld els. You should know how wide and deep the beveled joint is when butted up together.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paul vang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can weld another one up and cut it open.</TD></TR></TABLE>

From the looks of it you should be able to get a decent internal picture of what you have there.

 

the bevels that come on them are ok , what sch is that pipe ??? 10 or 40 ?? also if your doing 40 might want to bevel it more to get a more effective root pass.

 

yes, they are 40. I'll try taht as well

 

Looks like crap Paul. Weld up a 4" DP and ship it to me so I can inspect it for you. For your time, I will keep it.

 

Looks very similiar to Engloid's root pass on some schedule pipe. Based on the looks of it, it looks fine. Maybe use a little more filler rod next time because it looks like you might need to do 3 passes to have the weld not be concave. As for penetration, it looks fine if you aren't backpurging. If you are backpurging, then you should probably cut the piece and look at how the root pass ended up. I still don't believe .145" material needs backpurging.

 

I am kinda new to this, but why do you weld it like that? Are you welding them with a space in the middle? What reason does this serve?


Modified by CBURKE at 10:16 AM 6/24/2006

 

Gapping the pipe ensures full penentration. it allows for filler rod to be more effecive in getting a bead on the inside of the pipe.... but back purging is needed.


Good start Vang

 

Exactly...it allows for full penetration WHEN MIG WELDING. Not when Tigging. When tigging...you should be butting them all the way together with a bevel. If you do it right, you'll still get full penetration.
Kyle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueoval557 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Exactly...it allows for full penetration WHEN MIG WELDING. Not when Tigging. When tigging...you should be butting them all the way together with a bevel. If you do it right, you'll still get full penetration.
Kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>

Um what?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueoval557 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Exactly...it allows for full penetration WHEN MIG WELDING. Not when Tigging. When tigging...you should be butting them all the way together with a bevel. If you do it right, you'll still get full penetration.
Kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, i agree you will still get full penetration under the proper circumstances with the proper schedule pipe without a gap, but you can still gap it regardless of what schedule pipe and still get f/p when using tig.

 

Ideally you will want to gap in the TIG process. Again, it ensures a better inner bead with backpurging and double layering the weld. Keep in mind you want an area for the TIG weld to shrink when cooling. The filler rod allows/helps the shrink to occur without separation stress. In some situations it is hard to gap but ideally you'd want to. Gapping doesn't apply to thin guage steels

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nowtype &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

</TD></TR></TABLE>

How is this type of root accomplished...is this just basically a fusion weld with constant speed? Versus go, stop, go, stop, go stop, etc.?

 

Practice.

 

Practice, right settings, rythym ect....

 

Yes that root pass is done with filler. It looks to be pretty much a constant speed weld with little to no tungsten movement. I don't do the stop, go, stop, go method. It always results in lingering to much and overheating the weld.

 

Anyone ever gap the bevel with .045 or smaller filler and do a "fusion weld" in a sense, using constant speed?

I have been experimenting with different methods to do root and fill passes, both for strength and quality.

Any opinions on what the best root and fill pass methods are? Number of fill passes for schedule 40...anyone do more than one after a root?

Obviously, budget manifolds become not so budget when your doing 3 or more passes on each weld joint. Just wonderin how others balance the cost/quality scale.