Yo, I saw some posts of it on here and how to do it. So i went and bought 16 gauge wire and a switch that lights up when its on. So first i just clipped the wires at the plug for the fan motor. found out which was posotive and which was negative. ran a long wire to the inside of my car to the switch and soldered it on there. then ran a ground from the switch to my car. then ran a hot wire from my battery to the switch. And for grounding the negative i grounded the wire to the battery holder on bare medal. So i flipped it on and it came one, i was happy as hell. so i heat shrinked everything and tried to turn it on again and it didnt go on. i looked at all the ground and everything and tried to flip it on again, the light came on on the switch then turned off with out me turning it off. So i tried to flip it on again and it didnt turn on. does anyone know what might be wrong? car in my sig.

 

you have a dead short and probably blew a fuse - a switch is just an interrupt in a wire - you shouldn't have a ground from the switch - on the fan, the blue wire is (-) and the black/yellow is (+) - cut the blue wire and ground the portion still connected to the fan - cut the black/yellow & connect a new wire to the part of black/yellow that is still connected to fan - run that wire to the switch - from the other side of switch, run another wire to 12 volt power source - you should also install an inline fuse between the power source and the switch - the original cooling fan fuse is #15 in the dash fuse box, which you could use, but is kind of hard to access - connect into the black/yellow coming off fuse #15 - wiring this way eliminates the cooling fan switch on the back of the block and also the relay

 

well, i dont know what fuse i could have blown. and i dont know what a dead short is. lol sorry, this was my first wireing project that involved a switch and all that stuff. I did what you said and i grounded the blue wire, that was what i grounded to the battery tray. and i ran a long wire to the switch. Im just not sure what other "hot wire" i could connect it to. I just connected it to the posotive battery cable inside the fuse box under the hood. I also dont know what an inline fuse is. Also when you say connect to the black and yellow comming from fuse #15 do you mean just cut the wire and connect the new wire, or do you mean just splice the new wire into that wire and keep it hooked up?

 

a dead short is when you ground a "hot" wire - you said you ran a ground wire from the switch to the car - inline fuse is just a fuse installed in the 12 volt line to protect the circuit:


don't worry about connecting to fuse #15 - hard to access, but you could use it if you wanted by just splicing into the black/yellow - i would just use inline fuse

 

yeah, i went out to schucks today and got that exact one. with a numbe 15 fuse. im kinda confused though because it says to ground the switch. so i ran a wire from the switch to a metal part in my dash. Im not sure if that would be called a "hot" wire. but thats what i thought you had to do. Is it fine useing the battery cable as a "hot" wire? even if i put this inline fuse in there i dont see what that would change from what just happened. but i will try it out and see if the fuse blows.

 

I have a fan switch on my car, hooked up and working, I need an inline fuse (or it would be a lot safer) and was wondering then what amperage the fuse should be? should it be 10 or 15? I am just not 100% sure.

 

what hot wire did you hook it up to?

 

honestly im not sure
my buddy did the wiring and I soldered it. I was working on getting the engine in at the time so I will find out as soon as I can.

 

lol, i know how it is. im going to be going out there in an hour or so to try and fix it again. Im not sure what hot wire i will use instead of the battery, but i guess i will just have to find one.

 

I know we hooked it up under the dash, NEAR the IGN wires, but I dont think we hooked it too the IGN, we wanted it on all the time but our stock fans burned out a fair bit. So i think the hot wire is the battery. I am goign to go work on my Map sensor chk code, and will check again

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aXhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know we hooked it up under the dash, NEAR the IGN wires, but I dont think we hooked it too the IGN, we wanted it on all the time but our stock fans burned out a fair bit. So i think the hot wire is the battery. I am goign to go work on my Map sensor chk code, and will check again</TD></TR></TABLE>if you wanted it on all the time there is no need to have to run a wire back all the way from the engine bay to the cabin all that need to be done is splice into one of the wires for the fan & ground it (need to check wich one when I go outside) and once you turn on ignition boom fan goes on NO SWITCH BULLSHIT IS NEEDED TO HAVE IT ON ALL THE TIME oh and btw I had my fan on like that for 3 years & only had a problem one time

 

we burned out 2 fans. dunno maybe just bad fans.
I know with it in the IGN circuit it would be on all the time.

We didnt want to go splicing those wirse so its NOT in the IGN circuit, as i said before its NEAR!

near is not in. thanks for reading. I ahvent been able to trace the wire all the way back yet because we made it close to the loom as possible so its ebing a pain all of a sudden.

also we dont ahve "fan" wires. they were taken out by previous owner had switch in dash with turbo b16. we used his switch since he cut out relay and everything.

so i cant cut into "fan" wires without openign the loom very far and trying to find new wires.
also i got a farm and fleet fan for 60$
designed for stop and go traffic and towning. pull more air then airflow at something like 58-63 mph or soemthing wack.

oh yea and the reason we didnt want fan on all the time anymore was one, fans
and two my radiator is a koyo 1/2 size and it is thick, the whole thing took like 2 gallons of coolant, it would never warm up.

 

This is how I did it

1. I had to cut the green plug off of the fan on the radiator and run the hot to the straight to the battery then I just ran a ground through the firewall and used the cigatette lighter as a ground with a toggle switch. But now that i think about it you maybe able to use female spade connectors instead of cutting the fan plug off.

 

THE FAN PLUG IS NOT THERE. PLEASE READ THANK YOU.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aXhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also we dont ahve "fan" wires. they were taken out by previous owner had switch in dash with turbo b16. we used his switch since he cut out relay and everything.

so i cant cut into "fan" wires without openign the loom very far and trying to find new wires.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Anyways it already works just fine there is nothing wrong with it, I just wondered what would be a correct size inline fuse, not how to do it, this is not the tech, this is the asking how to make the fan switch safer for the car.

 

[QUOTE=aXhatch] THANK YOU.[QUOTE]


your welcome

 

Ok so I figured out we used a hto wire to the battery for power whenever we need it.

well not the battery itself, the fuse box underhood where the batter + cable is because my battery is in the trunk.

so what amperage fuse would work for that? would it be a 10 or 15?

 

for some reason the switch works. I went out there to start to take the switch apart and to redo some of the wireing and i just flipped it on for ***** and giggles and it turned on, but when i moved the switch it would turn off. So i figured that it had a bad ground or maybe the wires werent on there all the way. So i threw on some more sodder and now it works fine. But the switch light still doesnt turn on, so im a bit confused about that, but that doesnt matter, as long as the fan turn on its all good.

 

Did the switch light come on before?

 

what??!!!! 12V power?


you do NOT want to power anything to that fan sensor in the back of the engine.

you JUST need to ground one of those wires. NO 12V POWER SOURCE NEEDED.

that sensor grounds out the fan relay (when engine temps are elevated). by grounding that sensor with your switch, you are manually overriding the sensor and will ground the fan relay and turn the relay on.

 

what size inline fuse should I have if the switch in my car is connected to the 12v battery supply from the underhood fusebox.?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aXhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what size inline fuse should I have if the switch in my car is connected to the 12v battery supply from the underhood fusebox.?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used a 20 amp because that's what my toggle switch is rated.