Does anyone have pictures of how to take apart the bottom end of a d16a6 block? I need to change my rod bearings but I don't know how. Thanks guys!

 

Get a manual.

This is for a Z6 but it should still help a little.
http://redpepperracing.com/tec...M/116/

 

Thanks for the info, but I need to ask this quick question. From what I saw from the pictures, it seems like I can't remove the main bearing cap, which evidently is in the way of the rod bearings. Does this main that there is no way to change the rod bearings... without pulling the motor out? And taking off the tranny?

 

The main bearing cap comes off. Just make sure you support the crank with a jack on each side of it. It's not going to be easy to replace the rod bearings with the motor still in the car.

On the note, you're going to replace that rod anyway or the next bearing will spin too. You might even have to have the crank machined

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91SiZ6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The main bearing cap comes off. Just make sure you support the crank with a jack on each side of it. It's not going to be easy to replace the rod bearings with the motor still in the car.

On the note, you're going to replace that rod anyway or the next bearing will spin too. You might even have to have the crank machined</TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay, I know the main bearing cap comes off. But can the main bearing cap be removed without removing the crank? Like, those 10 big bolts that you loosen for the cap, if you losen them will the cap just come off? Cuz I losened them and the cap doesn't want to come off... Do I have to remove the caps on the oil pump and next to the tranny in order for it to come off?

Thanks for your help so far

 

Do you happen to know how many bolts it takes to remove the main bearing cap? Is there other screws that hang it up other than the 10 big bolts?

 

its not as complicated as your thinking. there r the 10 main bolts. remove them. if there's anything in the way of them coming out then remove it too, but i dont think there is after u take the pick up and tray off. just gotta wiggle them off, sometimes pry them off but dont damage anything

 

Hrm, kk. Wish me luck guys.... LOL. If i keep posting stuff... then you know something is up. =/ Cuz I need my car up and running to get to work... its the second day its down . So any help/advice would be appreciated. Thanks so far guys!

 

plenty of lube

 

Make sure you put a jack under the oil pump and rear main seal to hold the crank up when you take the bearing cap off.

Take the main cap off, take the rod cap off, lube up both sides of the new rod side bearing, put it against the crank journal and use it slide the old bearing half out while you slide the new one in. Like most quick fixes though, you're going to have more problems down the road. You might want to start looking for another motor to swap in because there's an extremely high chance that you'll spin another bearing on that rod. And will more likely than not toast your crank.

 

don't listen to the weak of faith! I did the rod bearings in my GSR motor in 3 hours from knocking to purring again (On a lift, of course) and I've redlined it 1,000 times since then with no problems. I didn't even have to support the crank because there was enough room to get the bearings out and back in by only removing 3 main caps. Just as long as you babied the engine (never over 3,000 RPM's) since it started knocking you'll be okay, otherwise you stretched the rod and you're fucked.

 

Well guys... I guess mechanics intuition really helped and payed off... Reading online and checking those manual ***** really didn't help. (As usual for me). I was able to finally take off the rod bearings... and for the one rod bearing that was messed up... it was... f'd up like hell. Luckly the journal wasn't groved down or anything. I felt all around it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IndySporty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't listen to the weak of faith! I did the rod bearings in my GSR motor in 3 hours from knocking to purring again (On a lift, of course) and I've redlined it 1,000 times since then with no problems. I didn't even have to support the crank because there was enough room to get the bearings out and back in by only removing 3 main caps. Just as long as you babied the engine (never over 3,000 RPM's) since it started knocking you'll be okay, otherwise you stretched the rod and you're fucked.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I did babie my engine... till it died out on the freeway =P. So lets hope when I put the new bearings everything is all gravy like your gsr motor!!!! Thanks guys for checking out the thread and helping a lonely brotha out =P. Love you guys! haha.

 

The reason why you want to support the crank is so the oil pump and rear main seal bolts don't have to. If you haven't actually built a motor you have no idea how small those little bastards really are. Not what you want holding a 30lbs.+ crank, not to mention the stress it puts on the seals.

With bearing clearances in the .0015-.002" range even extremely small amounts of damage can cause the next bearing to fail. You also have to diagnose why the bearing failed in the first place or you stand to spin another bearing. It's just good engine building procedure.