Had my LS wedged between the frame rails.....

My Civic is still a tight B-virgin so she put a hurting on the crank pulley.

I'm thinking of having a place cut off the extra 2 ribs & balance so I can still use it.


Need some tips to install this engine the easy way!! How do you guys tilt them, and what is the best sequence to attach each mount??
The downpipe is off and my MC is still in place.....

 

Beat the **** out of anything in the way.

 

lol i had so many cracked crank pulleys..mang it doesn't even matter as long as your alternator belt fits on it fine, cause no one on this planet has a/c in a honda..lol IM JOKING.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Contender25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol i had so many cracked crank pulleys..mang it doesn't even matter as long as your alternator belt fits on it fine, cause no one on this planet has a/c in a honda..lol IM JOKING. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what do you mean it does not matter?? It sure does matter if the crank pulley is cracked and out of balance. It may not matter at the time but after a long time the unbalanced pulley will vibrate alot causing the bearings to go bad.

 

go get a balancer at your autoparts store. makes your life alot easier

i bolt the upper tranny mount first.

 

pftha idk bout that mang, but it could be true and it could not just matter altogether really but imo then if he wants to use it until he gets one from the junkyard then i imagine it be fine.

 

Yeh, they're all tight. Just get some bids from machine shops for cutting off the two extra pulleys on a lathe. No need to balance it. As long as the guy dials in the pulley groove it will probably be better balanced than it was before due to less weight.

 

When doing a B into the EF chassis, you are suppose to either:

A. Change the CP to a balanced one with only 1 belt.

B. Beat the crap out of the frame, push it in about 1/4 inch to make room to everything.

I usually use option B, since it's free.

 

Yeah it was pretty ridiculous. I made a nice dent for the alternator pulley first, and figured that's all the damage I'd have to do.....wrong.

Damn everybody and their mom has a B in their 88-91, how come nobody has ever bitched about this before....?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lam.N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go get a balancer at your autoparts store. makes your life alot easier
i bolt the upper tranny mount first.</TD></TR></TABLE>
balancer?

so to get the tranny mount 1st I'd have to drop the engine down, then raise it up until that mount lines up.....it looked like that was the only way to do it.
The transmission prevents me from just dropping that mount straight in.....

 

How did you possibly do that? Did you put your motor in from the top? If so that is your problem. Never install a B motor from the top. Jack the car up really high, and slide the motor in place, drop the car on the motor, then use a cherry picker to place it in the right position. I've done many b swaps, and never had a crank pully come close. But since you did, buy a CTR n1 pulley.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

 

it's not that it's from top or buttom when doing B swaps in an EF that things can go wrong. even with my first time swap(dropping from top) in my car, it went pretty easy, you just need to figure it out properly and safely.

take out both radius rods, remove the alternator and just leave it on top of the rear cross member before dropping the engine(it should be easy to put it back after the engine's installed)

have the CP machined and balanced or time to buy a N1 CP.

 

CRXBart knows what he is talkin about, everything he said is correct.

 

Well I had a CTR pulley, then sold it after hearing so many rumors about premature bearing wear on a boosted motor.

This one will be boosted too once I get it running at 100% after OBD1 & MPFI conversions. Kinda want to break it in first anyway.....

I dropped the pulley off at a machinist that claims he can get the job done.

Thanks for the install tip. If I don't have enough clearance with the smaller pulley then it's going in from the bottom.

 

im gonna use an aluminum pulley of ebay for cheap gonna turn it on the lathe and see how she comes out ...
BUTTTTTT
i think if honda made it it wont cause premature wear ... ctr obviously would not have came equiped with a **** pulley
i think honda might do a better job than some guy ... and i am a machinest

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mahatma &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thanks for the install tip. If I don't have enough clearance with the smaller pulley then it's going in from the bottom.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude it is all around easier from the bottom. I've changed probally 30 honda engines all from the bottom up.

 

I've never taken the motor out from the bottom, but I imagine it's just as easy as taking it out the top. I never had any problems installing the B from the top with the stock crank pulley. I think it's just preference on whether you prefer to remove it from the top or bottom.

I would just have that thing machnied down to one pulley. I wouldn't be hammering in any frame rails. If your that close to it then maybe something is wrong with your car. My chassis is straight and I don't have any pulley clearance issues.

 

**** mahatma you were lucky that's all that happened. my buddy had a ef hatch with a b16 installed when he bought it...whoever did the swap never took a hammer to the engine bay and the damn motor mount bolts ended up snapping and the studs were still in the block. too bad it's much easier to hammer the bay with the motor out of the car.

btw i have installed a shortblock/tranny in my em1 from underneath, but i dont have jackstands tall enough to do it with the head attached. i lucked out this last time...i had no help and had to go from the top and managed to drop it in low and then bring it back up and slide the tranny mount bolt in, and then the left and rear mouns lined right up with the help of the cherry picker.

 

damn that sucks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sic944t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i think if honda made it it wont cause premature wear ... ctr obviously would not have came equiped with a **** pulley
i think honda might do a better job than some guy ... and i am a machinest</TD></TR></TABLE>

They're talking about the CTR N1 pulley. It is NOT the pulley that comes stock on the CTR motors. It was an optional race pulley. The regular CTR pulley has a rubber dampener in it, while the CTR N1 does not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr_CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

They're talking about the CTR N1 pulley. It is NOT the pulley that comes stock on the CTR motors. It was an optional race pulley. The regular CTR pulley has a rubber dampener in it, while the CTR N1 does not. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Still yet I don't think Honda would ever make a part that would comprimise reliability.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Still yet I don't think Honda would ever make a part that would comprimise reliability. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I'm not implying that this pulley is necessarily bad. I just dont want people to think that this is a pulley that came stock on a CTR.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Still yet I don't think Honda would ever make a part that would comprimise reliability. </TD></TR></TABLE>

it is a race pulley premature bearing wear on a race motor doesnt matter it is rebuilt after the race.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18ccivics &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it is a race pulley premature bearing wear on a race motor doesnt matter it is rebuilt after the race. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I just find t hard to beleive that a company built on it's reputation of solid reliability. Would produce a part that would sacrifce the crown jewel of their reputaion. I understand it is a part made for racing, but most circuit racers I know use motors for multiple seasons w/o rebuild. Atleast that is the SCCA and NASA racers I know. For that matter my B16A1 I had, was not a dampened pulley, it was solid no rubber. That motor was designed for the street and not the circuit, so why was it solid? Would it be safe to say that a dampened pulley would not be needed in a well balanced motor? Could that be the reason, or does it have more to do with the harmonics of the engine?

 

You bring up another good point. This engine has forged internals but I didn't have the $$ to have the rotating assy balanced.....
So I'd like what extra fraction of insurance a dampened pulley will afford me. Maybe it will cancel out the vibrations from a piston that was made - say - 2 grams heavier than the others....

Another question how will I tighten the pulley to 130 ft/lbs? I have a holder tool, but the hexagon shaped part will be cut off now.....impact the **** out of it??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mahatma &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Another question how will I tighten the pulley to 130 ft/lbs? I have a holder tool, but the hexagon shaped part will be cut off now.....impact the **** out of it??

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah put it in gear and have someone hold the brakes on it.