I got head bolts out and everything but heade is stuck on the block. what is the best way to pry head off block without damage? Thanks. need a reply asap. =-)

 

Well, you can hook a hoist to the head at the intake manifold and the exhaust and pull, did that once. If you dont have that handy, have a friend prying from the intake, and another at the distributor. Not to much pressure now. What else.....a rubber mallet works wonders.

 

rubber don't pry @ all, i'd use the rubber mallot as staed befor whiel some one is pulling up on it w/ extreme force.

 

I used a small pry bar with a little force to pry under the water neck and it poped up a little, but don't pry too hard...double check you have everything inbolted the intake mani has a bracket attached to it so if you didn't ubolt it from the head make sure you unbolted that

 

When I first took the head off a D16A6 back in 04, it had never had the head removed since the factory installation. So we unbolted everything (with motor out of car) and couldn't get it to come off. Hit it with a mallet. Pried it with about everything...

We then decided...Hmm, lets hook it up to the cherry picker and try to pull of the head. So we apply tension...nothing. Raise the motor about an inch off the ground...nothing. 6 inches...nothing. Took my 180 lb friend a couple jumps on the transmission to get the head to pop off. Good times were had by all.

 

is the intake manifold still on? if so you need to remove the bracket on the back of the block the attaches the block to the mani

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the intake manifold still on? if so you need to remove the bracket on the back of the block the attaches the block to the mani</TD></TR></TABLE>....HAHA i hope thats not the case, try putting the intake mani back on And hitting the underside of it (manifold) with a rubber mallet. No rubber mallet you say, just rap an old shirt around a hammer tape it and carefully go at it.


If the engine is still in the car just hit the top of the manifold

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the intake manifold still on? if so you need to remove the bracket on the back of the block the attaches the block to the mani</TD></TR></TABLE> Haha YES!! I got the job done. I tore engine apart and changed all gaskets, plugs etc and put it back together and it fired up on the second crank (since I relieved the preasure) So car is running great and better than before. AND YES it was the bracket holding down the mani to the block. So instead of getting to that since its a real bitch to get to I unbolted the mani from head and took off just the head. =-) It was a big but fun project since I've never done anything but change my own oil n filter. Thanks guys. Look out for a DIY thread with pics I'll do later. =-)

 

oh and while I was at it I cleaned off the valves..well pretty much the whole head.

 

Rubber mallet and elbow grease. Smack the head with the rubber mallet until you 'break the seal' as that point, gently jiggle and shake the head loose. Don't pry, nor twist the head. they are little studs still joining the water channels togeter, don't break those.

 

If everything is disconnected then you should be able to just lift it off.

If it won't lift up, then something must still be connected. Recheck that you didn't forget a hose or something.

I've removed many many heads and never not been able to lift one off once everything is disconnected.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If everything is disconnected then you should be able to just lift it off.

If it won't lift up, then something must still be connected. Recheck that you didn't forget a hose or something.

I've removed many many heads and never not been able to lift one off once everything is disconnected.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A few overheat session can pretty much bond the head and block togeter by a melted gasket tho. We have all swapped a head that didn't just slip right off. I took the head off my brothers blown D16A6. Trust me, it didn't just 'slip off'. Thing was so fucked up.

 

This has always worked for me..

Take a prybar with a round tapered end like this:


Then stick the tapered end into one of the headbolt holes
and rock it side to side..

 

manual says to torque to 47 inch/lbs but some people say that if I use same studs that I need to apply more torque. whats you're guys opinions on that?

 

I thought head stud tourque was 3 stage 20-40-60...double check that 47 number seems low...but then again I always use ARP head studs..and yea I'd give them a little more if you are reusing them but not to much but I don't support reusing head bolts

 

I checked the manual and it said to do it in 2 steps. First use 22ft lbs then use 47 ft lbs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junior40er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">manual says to torque to 47 inch/lbs but some people say that if I use same studs that I need to apply more torque. whats you're guys opinions on that?
</TD></TR></TABLE> I meant ft/lbs no inch lbs.

 

Double check I believe i remember hearing about an update to the manul for those torque specs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junior40er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I checked the manual and it said to do it in 2 steps. First use 22ft lbs then use 47 ft lbs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is correct. I've seen people over torque them to 55 because they reused head bolts. And I've seen higher when using head studs on boosted cars (obvious reason to over tighten).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Loserkidwac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Double check I believe i remember hearing about an update to the manul for those torque specs</TD></TR></TABLE>
the manual I have is only 2 weeks since I bought it.

 

the manual only publishes what the manufacturer originally specifies, Honda has since put out a service bulletin and should be torqued in 3 stages and the final torque was a bit higher( a couple ftlb's) than what manual states.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the manual only publishes what the manufacturer originally specifies, Honda has since put out a service bulletin and should be torqued in 3 stages and the final torque was a bit higher( a couple ftlb's) than what manual states.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was starting to think I was the only one who heard that...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Honda has since put out a service bulletin and should be torqued in 3 stages and the final torque was a bit higher( a couple ftlb's) than what manual states.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe this may be the bulletin you refered to:

 

cool man thanks. So I gotta get the new style gasket and new bolts from Honda.

 

any ideas how much it'll cost? accoding to this its torquing them just another 2lbs. (from 47 to 49) is that it?