Lower Tie bar problems on my crx help!!!
hey i tried putting on a Benen Lower tie bar that came off a DC/EG on my 91 crx....but its off by half an inch...before i had a dc bar that came off a dc and it fitted cool...whats the deal??? help please....i was thinkin abotu drilling the hole a lil bigger but that defeats the whole purpose ...
heres a pic of one side bolted up....


heres a pic of one side bolted up....


The DC bar was adjustable. The solid Benen is more chassis specific. If you drill one side, you'll have to drill them both. If your set on having it, I'd mark and measure it and take it to a machine shop.
I know I did this with an old Mustang but sometimes the body has flexed that it is warped. You could attempt jacking up the car in different location to see if you can get the body to flex enough to put it on there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know I did this with an old Mustang but sometimes the body has flexed that it is warped. You could attempt jacking up the car in different location to see if you can get the body to flex enough to put it on there. </TD></TR></TABLE>Very clever
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know I did this with an old Mustang but sometimes the body has flexed that it is warped. You could attempt jacking up the car in different location to see if you can get the body to flex enough to put it on there. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Its gonna need to flex a TON!
I say just widen the holes equally on both sides and slap it on.
Its gonna need to flex a TON!
I say just widen the holes equally on both sides and slap it on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know I did this with an old Mustang but sometimes the body has flexed that it is warped. You could attempt jacking up the car in different location to see if you can get the body to flex enough to put it on there. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats not good at all though, if you ever weld in a roll cage, the car should be on the ground with its weight.
I mean think about it, if you have to jack up one side in order to make the lower tie bar fit, whats going to happen when you let the car go back down. Either the tie bar is going to brake or the rear subframe.
Thats not good at all though, if you ever weld in a roll cage, the car should be on the ground with its weight.
I mean think about it, if you have to jack up one side in order to make the lower tie bar fit, whats going to happen when you let the car go back down. Either the tie bar is going to brake or the rear subframe.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its gonna need to flex a TON!
I say just widen the holes equally on both sides and slap it on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think imma just widen the holes on both sides...thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thats not good at all though, if you ever weld in a roll cage, the car should be on the ground with its weight.
I mean think about it, if you have to jack up one side in order to make the lower tie bar fit, whats going to happen when you let the car go back down. Either the tie bar is going to brake or the rear subframe. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for info......
Its gonna need to flex a TON!
I say just widen the holes equally on both sides and slap it on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think imma just widen the holes on both sides...thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thats not good at all though, if you ever weld in a roll cage, the car should be on the ground with its weight.
I mean think about it, if you have to jack up one side in order to make the lower tie bar fit, whats going to happen when you let the car go back down. Either the tie bar is going to brake or the rear subframe. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for info......
Shoulda bought one that was made for an EF
. But ya, he's right. You need to trim the holes enough to get her one there. If I were you I'd take proper measurement and get a machine shop to do it. It would cost you maybe 50$ and it wouldn't look shitty/be off by anything.
. But ya, he's right. You need to trim the holes enough to get her one there. If I were you I'd take proper measurement and get a machine shop to do it. It would cost you maybe 50$ and it wouldn't look shitty/be off by anything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thats not good at all though, if you ever weld in a roll cage, the car should be on the ground with its weight.
I mean think about it, if you have to jack up one side in order to make the lower tie bar fit, whats going to happen when you let the car go back down. Either the tie bar is going to brake or the rear subframe. </TD></TR></TABLE>
actually, a lot of race teams jack up one wheel or one side of the car when welding in a cage.
but to the OP: it wont work. sell off the bar to someone that has an eg/dc and buy the correct bar for your crx. it is way too long, i tried the same thing years ago. there is no way you can get it to PROPERLY work.
Thats not good at all though, if you ever weld in a roll cage, the car should be on the ground with its weight.
I mean think about it, if you have to jack up one side in order to make the lower tie bar fit, whats going to happen when you let the car go back down. Either the tie bar is going to brake or the rear subframe. </TD></TR></TABLE>
actually, a lot of race teams jack up one wheel or one side of the car when welding in a cage.
but to the OP: it wont work. sell off the bar to someone that has an eg/dc and buy the correct bar for your crx. it is way too long, i tried the same thing years ago. there is no way you can get it to PROPERLY work.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
actually, a lot of race teams jack up one wheel or one side of the car when welding in a cage. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why, and what teams ? Maybe if you are going to be corning a lot or something.
I would want the cage to be welded in as how the car would be sitting on the pavement.
actually, a lot of race teams jack up one wheel or one side of the car when welding in a cage. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why, and what teams ? Maybe if you are going to be corning a lot or something.
I would want the cage to be welded in as how the car would be sitting on the pavement.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
actually, a lot of race teams jack up one wheel or one side of the car when welding in a cage.
but to the OP: it wont work. sell off the bar to someone that has an eg/dc and buy the correct bar for your crx. it is way too long, i tried the same thing years ago. there is no way you can get it to PROPERLY work. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeha but the weird thing is my buddy has a crx and had the same benen bar and it came off a dc/eg...thats the only reason why i bought it because i thought it was gonna fit...maybe my frame is bent
actually, a lot of race teams jack up one wheel or one side of the car when welding in a cage.
but to the OP: it wont work. sell off the bar to someone that has an eg/dc and buy the correct bar for your crx. it is way too long, i tried the same thing years ago. there is no way you can get it to PROPERLY work. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeha but the weird thing is my buddy has a crx and had the same benen bar and it came off a dc/eg...thats the only reason why i bought it because i thought it was gonna fit...maybe my frame is bent
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Maybe if you are going to be corning a lot or something.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly...
Maybe if you are going to be corning a lot or something.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by two_cam_ham »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have the same bar (different color) and mine went on fine......
</TD></TR></TABLE>
when u bought your did it say it was made for dc/eg/crx??? should be all the same right???
</TD></TR></TABLE>when u bought your did it say it was made for dc/eg/crx??? should be all the same right???
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