full race traction bar users noise ?
Anybody using the full race tractino bars on their car, do you get any noise or creaking when weight transfers back and forth? Mine seem to be pretty noisy and clunky...
I'm gonna triple check and make sure everything is still tight tomorrow, but the same thing is happening on my buddy's DA as well.
Just wanna know if its normal or not...?
I'm gonna triple check and make sure everything is still tight tomorrow, but the same thing is happening on my buddy's DA as well.
Just wanna know if its normal or not...?
I have one on my crx and i get the same thing it actually makes a shifting clunk when accelerating or braking hard have not been able to fix the problem if you find out how let me know
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont have a fullrace bar, but my jimfab bar creaks slightly. It appears to be coming from the heim joint.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Jimfab here too..but my front end is quieter than when I had the stock setup. Maybe I just got lucky but I like to think that mine is the way it's supposed to be.
Jimfab here too..but my front end is quieter than when I had the stock setup. Maybe I just got lucky but I like to think that mine is the way it's supposed to be.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d357r0y »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Jimfab here too..but my front end is quieter than when I had the stock setup. Maybe I just got lucky but I like to think that mine is the way it's supposed to be.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, generally speaking though when u delete bushings for something more precise and less forgiving, noises tend to resonate into the cabin.
I say just keep on eye on things and keep checking for excessive play and stuff of that nature.
Jimfab here too..but my front end is quieter than when I had the stock setup. Maybe I just got lucky but I like to think that mine is the way it's supposed to be.
</TD></TR></TABLE>lol, generally speaking though when u delete bushings for something more precise and less forgiving, noises tend to resonate into the cabin.
I say just keep on eye on things and keep checking for excessive play and stuff of that nature.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol, generally speaking though when u delete bushings for something more precise and less forgiving, noises tend to resonate into the cabin. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is why I prefer the innovative crossmember for a street car. It uses the stock radius rods. And it is MUCH more heavy duty than those race-only traction bars. It also gives PLENTY of room for headers. There is literally enough room for another set of tubes between my DC JDM and the crossmember. And with Energy suspension radius rod bushings, it is plenty stiff.
This is why I prefer the innovative crossmember for a street car. It uses the stock radius rods. And it is MUCH more heavy duty than those race-only traction bars. It also gives PLENTY of room for headers. There is literally enough room for another set of tubes between my DC JDM and the crossmember. And with Energy suspension radius rod bushings, it is plenty stiff.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is why I prefer the innovative crossmember for a street car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No big deal to me. Im willing to sacrifice a lil bit of noise for a better "feel" anyday. If i wanted cadillac comfort and quietness, i wouldnt be driving an EF in the first place
. Isnt the innovative member the same as the old place racing unit?
This is why I prefer the innovative crossmember for a street car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No big deal to me. Im willing to sacrifice a lil bit of noise for a better "feel" anyday. If i wanted cadillac comfort and quietness, i wouldnt be driving an EF in the first place
. Isnt the innovative member the same as the old place racing unit?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No big deal to me. Im willing to sacrifice a lil bit of noise for a better "feel" anyday. If i wanted cadillac comfort and quietness, i wouldnt be driving an EF in the first place
. Isnt the innovative member the same as the old place racing unit? </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's the same idea, but it does not look like the same piece (I have had a Place Racing crossmember). As for feel, it's not at all bad with energy suspension bushings. And it is MUCH more heavy duty than race-only traction bars. Quite frankly, alot of those traction bars scare me. I would HATE to think of what could happen to one of those flimsy pieces if I was to hit a rock or a good-sized pothole. And without bushings, there is NOTHING to blunt the impact. This GREATLY increases the chances of failure.
. Isnt the innovative member the same as the old place racing unit? </TD></TR></TABLE>It's the same idea, but it does not look like the same piece (I have had a Place Racing crossmember). As for feel, it's not at all bad with energy suspension bushings. And it is MUCH more heavy duty than race-only traction bars. Quite frankly, alot of those traction bars scare me. I would HATE to think of what could happen to one of those flimsy pieces if I was to hit a rock or a good-sized pothole. And without bushings, there is NOTHING to blunt the impact. This GREATLY increases the chances of failure.
you sure u aint getting the brand full race and a race only cross memeber mixed up? my freind has one on his CRX and really likes it and daily's his crx. il ask him if his makes that noise
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bwilly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have one on my crx and i get the same thing it actually makes a shifting clunk when accelerating or braking hard have not been able to fix the problem if you find out how let me know</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is that the noise I hear!! I wondered what it was. When braking REALLY hard or accelerating hard (think autox) I hear a single solid lound clunk. It doesn't happen every time, but if I brake super hard you can hear it the first time. A repetitive braking won't reproduce the sound UNTIL I accelerate really hard and it will clunk again.
Is that what you have???
Is that the noise I hear!! I wondered what it was. When braking REALLY hard or accelerating hard (think autox) I hear a single solid lound clunk. It doesn't happen every time, but if I brake super hard you can hear it the first time. A repetitive braking won't reproduce the sound UNTIL I accelerate really hard and it will clunk again.
Is that what you have???
heim joints will make a slight chadder most noticable at low speeds or sudden movements they have a certain degree of movement common is about 20 degrees so what you hear is the movement in each heim joint which is normal. Spray some WD in each joint...it will make it less noisy and more movable...but also check to make sure everything is tight far as the jam nuts and bolts...
when the noise comes back time for more WD...
when the noise comes back time for more WD...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes they do make a bit of a clunk Gendy, I got used to mine, the other noises drown it out though</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks guys, just wanted to make sure i didn't have them mal-adjusted or anything
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuarterMileMaster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is really making me not so anxious to buy a full race bar and go back to getting an innovative one instead...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldnt let that deter you man.... they are great equipment for the track as well as just better overall DD feeling.
Thanks guys, just wanted to make sure i didn't have them mal-adjusted or anything
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuarterMileMaster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is really making me not so anxious to buy a full race bar and go back to getting an innovative one instead...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldnt let that deter you man.... they are great equipment for the track as well as just better overall DD feeling.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's the same idea, but it does not look like the same piece (I have had a Place Racing crossmember). As for feel, it's not at all bad with energy suspension bushings. And it is MUCH more heavy duty than race-only traction bars. Quite frankly, alot of those traction bars scare me. I would HATE to think of what could happen to one of those flimsy pieces if I was to hit a rock or a good-sized pothole. And without bushings, there is NOTHING to blunt the impact. This GREATLY increases the chances of failure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
JW, have you ever even seen a full race bar in person? There is nothing flimsy about it, and the radius arms are plenty strong. The old clevice was the weak point and that has been changed. There is also all the room in the world for whatever you want. In fact, if you look straight down in my engine bay you can't see the bar b/c it's under the radiator. You can NOT get any more room than that. I'm not a full-race fanboi, but you sure seem to have a limited view on aftermarket bars. Bushings won't really do you any good from a blunt impact on the crossmember itself so that statement doesn't make sense. And a good sized manhole is more likely to rip your oilpan off than even touch the crossmember.
It's the same idea, but it does not look like the same piece (I have had a Place Racing crossmember). As for feel, it's not at all bad with energy suspension bushings. And it is MUCH more heavy duty than race-only traction bars. Quite frankly, alot of those traction bars scare me. I would HATE to think of what could happen to one of those flimsy pieces if I was to hit a rock or a good-sized pothole. And without bushings, there is NOTHING to blunt the impact. This GREATLY increases the chances of failure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
JW, have you ever even seen a full race bar in person? There is nothing flimsy about it, and the radius arms are plenty strong. The old clevice was the weak point and that has been changed. There is also all the room in the world for whatever you want. In fact, if you look straight down in my engine bay you can't see the bar b/c it's under the radiator. You can NOT get any more room than that. I'm not a full-race fanboi, but you sure seem to have a limited view on aftermarket bars. Bushings won't really do you any good from a blunt impact on the crossmember itself so that statement doesn't make sense. And a good sized manhole is more likely to rip your oilpan off than even touch the crossmember.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExplicitSpeed360 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heim joints will make a slight chadder most noticable at low speeds or sudden movements they have a certain degree of movement common is about 20 degrees so what you hear is the movement in each heim joint which is normal. Spray some WD in each joint...it will make it less noisy and more movable...but also check to make sure everything is tight far as the jam nuts and bolts...
when the noise comes back time for more WD...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll try some of that spray on white lithium tomorrow
when the noise comes back time for more WD...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll try some of that spray on white lithium tomorrow
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's the same idea, but it does not look like the same piece (I have had a Place Racing crossmember). As for feel, it's not at all bad with energy suspension bushings. And it is MUCH more heavy duty than race-only traction bars. Quite frankly, alot of those traction bars scare me. I would HATE to think of what could happen to one of those flimsy pieces if I was to hit a rock or a good-sized pothole. And without bushings, there is NOTHING to blunt the impact. This GREATLY increases the chances of failure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hear ya man. Ive had the stock x member with ES bushings and it felt good, but when i stepped up to the jimfab it felt really good. Have u seen the jimfab or fullrace?...not too flimsy if u ask me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExplicitSpeed360 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heim joints will make a slight chadder most noticable at low speeds or sudden movements they have a certain degree of movement common is about 20 degrees so what you hear is the movement in each heim joint which is normal. Spray some WD in each joint...it will make it less noisy and more movable...but also check to make sure everything is tight far as the jam nuts and bolts...
when the noise comes back time for more WD...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats when my creak occurs (at low speed when pulling into the driveway). Sometimes u hear it sometimes u dont. You really have to be listening for it too, its not like its that loud or anything....very faint. I prefer not to spray wd on them, i think that would attract dirt/grit. Maybe i'll try some dry lubricant, such as graphite.
It's the same idea, but it does not look like the same piece (I have had a Place Racing crossmember). As for feel, it's not at all bad with energy suspension bushings. And it is MUCH more heavy duty than race-only traction bars. Quite frankly, alot of those traction bars scare me. I would HATE to think of what could happen to one of those flimsy pieces if I was to hit a rock or a good-sized pothole. And without bushings, there is NOTHING to blunt the impact. This GREATLY increases the chances of failure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hear ya man. Ive had the stock x member with ES bushings and it felt good, but when i stepped up to the jimfab it felt really good. Have u seen the jimfab or fullrace?...not too flimsy if u ask me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExplicitSpeed360 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heim joints will make a slight chadder most noticable at low speeds or sudden movements they have a certain degree of movement common is about 20 degrees so what you hear is the movement in each heim joint which is normal. Spray some WD in each joint...it will make it less noisy and more movable...but also check to make sure everything is tight far as the jam nuts and bolts...
when the noise comes back time for more WD...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats when my creak occurs (at low speed when pulling into the driveway). Sometimes u hear it sometimes u dont. You really have to be listening for it too, its not like its that loud or anything....very faint. I prefer not to spray wd on them, i think that would attract dirt/grit. Maybe i'll try some dry lubricant, such as graphite.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I hear ya man. Ive had the stock x member with ES bushings and it felt good, but when i stepped up to the jimfab it felt really good. Have u seen the jimfab or fullrace?...not too flimsy if u ask me.
Thats when my creak occurs (at low speed when pulling into the driveway). Sometimes u hear it sometimes u dont. You really have to be listening for it too, its not like its that loud or anything....very faint. I prefer not to spray wd on them, i think that would attract dirt/grit. Maybe i'll try some dry lubricant, such as graphite.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good point and very good idea.
I hear ya man. Ive had the stock x member with ES bushings and it felt good, but when i stepped up to the jimfab it felt really good. Have u seen the jimfab or fullrace?...not too flimsy if u ask me.
Thats when my creak occurs (at low speed when pulling into the driveway). Sometimes u hear it sometimes u dont. You really have to be listening for it too, its not like its that loud or anything....very faint. I prefer not to spray wd on them, i think that would attract dirt/grit. Maybe i'll try some dry lubricant, such as graphite.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good point and very good idea.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thats when my creak occurs (at low speed when pulling into the driveway). Sometimes u hear it sometimes u dont. You really have to be listening for it too, its not like its that loud or anything....very faint. I prefer not to spray wd on them, i think that would attract dirt/grit. Maybe i'll try some dry lubricant, such as graphite.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine have a little bit of grease on them and haven't collected that much if any dirt at all.. I have actualy considered buying some big shrink tubing so when I regrease them I can seal them off from the elements.
Thats when my creak occurs (at low speed when pulling into the driveway). Sometimes u hear it sometimes u dont. You really have to be listening for it too, its not like its that loud or anything....very faint. I prefer not to spray wd on them, i think that would attract dirt/grit. Maybe i'll try some dry lubricant, such as graphite.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine have a little bit of grease on them and haven't collected that much if any dirt at all.. I have actualy considered buying some big shrink tubing so when I regrease them I can seal them off from the elements.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bushings won't really do you any good from a blunt impact on the crossmember itself so that statement doesn't make sense.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wasn't speaking of an impact on the crossmember. I was talking about an impact on the wheel. An impact on the wheel is going to produce a VERY large tensile force on the radius rod. Now if there are bushings, then the bushings are going to take the brunt of the blow. But if there are NO bushings, then all of the impact is going to be transmitted to the crossmember. And from what I have seen, those tabs that hold the radius rods on many aftermarket units are just not really thick. The result of failure could be potentially disastrous.
I wasn't speaking of an impact on the crossmember. I was talking about an impact on the wheel. An impact on the wheel is going to produce a VERY large tensile force on the radius rod. Now if there are bushings, then the bushings are going to take the brunt of the blow. But if there are NO bushings, then all of the impact is going to be transmitted to the crossmember. And from what I have seen, those tabs that hold the radius rods on many aftermarket units are just not really thick. The result of failure could be potentially disastrous.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wasn't speaking of an impact on the crossmember. I was talking about an impact on the wheel. An impact on the wheel is going to produce a VERY large tensile force on the radius rod. Now if there are bushings, then the bushings are going to take the brunt of the blow. But if there are NO bushings, then all of the impact is going to be transmitted to the crossmember. And from what I have seen, those tabs that hold the radius rods on many aftermarket units are just not really thick. The result of failure could be potentially disastrous.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need to take a look where the Jimfab bars connect to the lower arms.. it's as thick as OEM if not thicker.
You need to take a look where the Jimfab bars connect to the lower arms.. it's as thick as OEM if not thicker.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d357r0y »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You need to take a look where the Jimfab bars connect to the lower arms.. it's as thick as OEM if not thicker.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The trouble area that I have seen most often is where the radius rod bolts to the crossmember. Most of the time, it is by means of a couple of light gauge steel tabs.
You need to take a look where the Jimfab bars connect to the lower arms.. it's as thick as OEM if not thicker.
</TD></TR></TABLE>The trouble area that I have seen most often is where the radius rod bolts to the crossmember. Most of the time, it is by means of a couple of light gauge steel tabs.
heim joins are not good for daily driving cause of all the bumps and dirts on the road, you see them on race cars cause they are checked and changed after each race, also you are not supposed to spary anything lube or grease on the joint, dirt will stick on it and make it wear out even faster, there are some heim joints that comes with dust boots, I remeber installing some performance control arms with heim for an Audi and they were done after 2 weeks on the street cause of all the dirt on the road, I would use them on the race track but not on the street cause they will wear out in no time, just my 2cent
Wow, even after reading that whole 80 page "Best Traction Bar" thread, this 1 page thread has completely changed my mind about getting a full-race bar and going back to an innovative setup. If I'm going to shell out $450 for a few bars and heim joints I shouldn't have to worry about dirt screwing it up not to mention excessive noise that will probably lead to issues down the road yet to be discovered...


