Just curious if anyone here has made there own lexan windows? If so how did you do it and what size lexan did you use?

 

I did my own lexan windows in my crx. I used the xl-10 I believe. I used two 4x4 sheets for my rear 3 windows.

 

oops, 1/8" thick.

 

How did you Get the lexan to take the shape of the window? did you heat it with a gun or did you just screw it onto opposite ends and let it forms its self..

Also do you get alot of noise from them when you are driving on the street like the wobbling noise that u would expect to hear if it was too thin?

 

I don't know alot of people driveing with them on the street. But to answer you question you will want to cut is out the same size as your window and dril holes so you can rivit them. As far as noise, just use some sealer. The back window you can just lay it down and rivit it all the way around. It's pretty then so it is not hard to bend.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBURKE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know alot of people driveing with them on the street. But to answer you question you will want to cut is out the same size as your window and dril holes so you can rivit them. As far as noise, just use some sealer. The back window you can just lay it down and rivit it all the way around. It's pretty then so it is not hard to bend.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im more concern about Flexing from the wind going down the side of the car. But they will be sealed with silicone and both sides are gonna be tinted to keep the scratches from being less visible

 

Lexan doesn't really scratch, as for flexing you should be fine. Here is something that may help......... You may have see this before.

http://hondatuningmagazine.com....html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How did you Get the lexan to take the shape of the window? did you heat it with a gun or did you just screw it onto opposite ends and let it forms its self..

Also do you get alot of noise from them when you are driving on the street like the wobbling noise that u would expect to hear if it was too thin?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just cut it to size and pop rivit it in. If you need shape (like a probe rear 1/4) you cut the lexan to size, lay it over the stock window and torch the lexan a bit.

If you are worried about wind noise and flex and whatnot go with something a little thicker like 1/4".

My rear window gets a little wobble but it doesn't bother me to much.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowseeker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did my own lexan windows in my crx. I used the xl-10 I believe. I used two 4x4 sheets for my rear 3 windows.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the correct name is MR-10 made by GE products(general electric)

 

Be sure to get the scratch resistant stuff. May be what has already been stated, but not sure. 1/8" should work fine. However, I wouldnt pop rivet them in. Drill your holes, and use some 10/32" button head screws with allen heads, and nylock nuts on the inside. DO NOT use wedge style screws, where the head looks like "\/"...this will require you to countersink your holes, then when you tighten the screws down, your lexan will want to crack.
With a button head screw, the force is going straight down on the piece, with the wedge style screw, your force is going down, and outwards as well...which causes it to crack easily. GOOD LUCK!
Kyle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueoval557 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Be sure to get the scratch resistant stuff. May be what has already been stated, but not sure. 1/8" should work fine. However, I wouldnt pop rivet them in. Drill your holes, and use some 10/32" button head screws with allen heads, and nylock nuts on the inside. DO NOT use wedge style screws, where the head looks like "\/"...this will require you to countersink your holes, then when you tighten the screws down, your lexan will want to crack.
With a button head screw, the force is going straight down on the piece, with the wedge style screw, your force is going down, and outwards as well...which causes it to crack easily. GOOD LUCK!
Kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lexan doesn't crack.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowseeker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Lexan doesn't crack.</TD></TR></TABLE>


actaully it does. dont speak unless you know

 

I've always used countersunk screws, looks alot cleaner. You don't get the screws very tight, so it won't crack. You have to use nylock nuts so you can tighten the screw just enough to where it doesn't dimple the lexan and the nut won't back off. Rivets will make it look very wavy because you can't tension them properly.

 

How would i do the rear hatch window? like to form it to fit?

 

take your stock one off, or out, lay the lexan over it, and use a heat gun to heat it up.

one of my team mates made driver and passenger side windows for his race car, for transportation reasons, and he got a very nice form.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


actaully it does. dont speak unless you know </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have tryed and tryed and could not get the lexan I used to crack. I've used hammers, screw drivers, punchs, you name it. Only thing it would do is bend, squish, and deform, never crack.

 

Where can you pick up the MR-10 stuff? Is there a comparable substitute you can buy from a home depot or a lowes?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've always used countersunk screws, looks alot cleaner. You don't get the screws very tight, so it won't crack. You have to use nylock nuts so you can tighten the screw just enough to where it doesn't dimple the lexan and the nut won't back off. Rivets will make it look very wavy because you can't tension them properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what kind of screws do you recomend?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowseeker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have tryed and tryed and could not get the lexan I used to crack. I've used hammers, screw drivers, punchs, you name it. Only thing it would do is bend, squish, and deform, never crack.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh, ours is bolted onto our car, the owner leaned on it by accident and cracked it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smash fascism &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where can you pick up the MR-10 stuff? Is there a comparable substitute you can buy from a home depot or a lowes? </TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.chassisshop.com

or try http://www.msc.com

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what kind of screws do you recomend?</TD></TR></TABLE>

stainless allen head.

 

You sure it's actual Lexan? Lexan can be bent completely over on itself and does not require heat to make large bends like you would on a metal brake. I have bent it over on itself then bent it back and it did not crack or break. Lexan scratches but it scratches clear whereas Plex scratches white. Also, the Percy's Speedglass is made about 4 miles from my house. Pretty cool process; they actually vacuum form the stuff to make all the contours and you can buy it clear or tinted.

 

Countersunk aluminum 10-32 screws.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You sure it's actual Lexan? </TD></TR></TABLE>

unless FAL ripped us off

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

unless FAL ripped us off </TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha, you got ripped off!

 

I've seen these "button head" screws used on an old firebird. It looked really good! I'm going to give this a try.

 

Actually lexan does crack, but I think it really has to be under a great amount of stress.

I know a lot of companies will try to sell a plexiglass ( I think its thats the name ) piece of window and say its lexan, fiberglass is more prown to break. The reason why lexan is used is because its suppose to bend before you could ever break it.