http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem

read the install instructions and payment terms lol.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5. Hold the end of the compressor wheel to stop the shaft from rotating. Ask the driver to start the engine, let the engine idle for 20 seconds to circulate the engine oil. (Do not step on the gas)
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Payment must be recieve within 7 days of auction end.
NEGATIVE FEEDBACK WILL BE GIVEN TO DEAD BIDDER.
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lol, you may not die but you'll definitely be missing a few fingers for sure

scary thing is I wonder how many people will actually buy these turbos and try this??

 

oh man...that's hilarious and at the same time...

Yea I needed an emoticon there to describe it

 

i was bright enough to use a stick to hold my impeller..... would any of you actually be dumb enough to stick your fingers in there??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stackz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol, you may not die but you'll definitely be missing a few fingers for sure

scary thing is I wonder how many people will actually buy these turbos and try this??</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have heard from quite a few people who hold the nut on the compressor side while the engine is idling for the turbo's first startup. Maybe you could explain what the big deal is with doing this? Or more precisely what the danger is with this method?

Many turbo's do not even spin while the engine is at idle. This tells me that while the engine is at this state (a state with very little load on it) there is not a whole lot of exhuast gas to force the turbine wheel to spin. I don't see an engine at idle flowing enough exhaust gases to force the wheel to spin while you are firmly holding the nut. But maybe I'm looking at this all wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KeyserSoze &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have heard from quite a few people who hold the nut on the compressor side while the engine is idling for the turbo's first startup. Maybe you could explain what the big deal is with doing this? Or more precisely what the danger is with this method?

Many turbo's do not even spin while the engine is at idle. This tells me that while the engine is at this state (a state with very little load on it) there is not a whole lot of exhuast gas to force the turbine wheel to spin. I don't see an engine at idle flowing enough exhaust gases to force the wheel to spin while you are firmly holding the nut. But maybe I'm looking at this all wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>

turbos that dont spin at idle have something wrong with them!! PERIOD!

why dont you hold it and crank the engine, and tell me if it wont fock something up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KeyserSoze &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have heard from quite a few people who hold the nut on the compressor side while the engine is idling for the turbo's first startup. Maybe you could explain what the big deal is with doing this? Or more precisely what the danger is with this method?

Many turbo's do not even spin while the engine is at idle. This tells me that while the engine is at this state (a state with very little load on it) there is not a whole lot of exhuast gas to force the turbine wheel to spin. I don't see an engine at idle flowing enough exhaust gases to force the wheel to spin while you are firmly holding the nut. But maybe I'm looking at this all wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not saying that you cant "hold" the nut on the compressor when the engine is idling. and yeah, I know some of the larger turbos wont spin at idle on smaller engines. I just wouldnt be willing to take the chance.

someone needs to post the thread where the guy's fingers were sucked into the turbo....that should put it into perspective for you.

too many random weird things could go on and those are sharp metal blades, I wouldnt risk going the rest of my life without full use of my fingers just because of what some guy says in an ebay ad.

I dont ever intend to put any part of my body near a sharp blade that has the potential to do me harm

 

t3/t40e in a b20 did not spin on idle at all. Boost fine and really fast so I guess there just isnt enough pressure at idle to move the turbo.

 

my xspower t3/to4e spins fast enough at idle you can't see the blades. B20-Vtec on a ramhorn

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stackz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm not saying that you cant "hold" the nut on the compressor when the engine is idling. and yeah, I know some of the larger turbos wont spin at idle on smaller engines. I just wouldnt be willing to take the chance.

someone needs to post the thread where the guy's fingers were sucked into the turbo....that should put it into perspective for you.

too many random weird things could go on and those are sharp metal blades, I wouldnt risk going the rest of my life without full use of my fingers just because of what some guy says in an ebay ad.

I dont ever intend to put any part of my body near a sharp blade that has the potential to do me harm </TD></TR></TABLE>

Guys. LOL When the engine is at and idle the wheel turns so sloooooooooow that a wet noddle could stop it from spinning. No ones fingers are going to get chopped off. HAHAHA you dont need to hold th wheel on initial start up either. as soon as you crank that engine there is oil running through the system and the turbo is oiled before the engine fires. Its all bs that you read in the ebay page and anywhere else that says to hold the blades at start up.

 

I guess I'm the only one on here that has ever had something weird happen to them...

yeah, I know the possibility of "a wet noodle" stopping turbine blades at idle. what if you have an idle surge during all of this?? what if your friend who cranks the car up for you while doing this accidently revs the engine??

I'm not saying its not possible to hold the compressor still but if something goes wrong, you're going to pay consequences.

I just would not advocate putting instructions like that in an auction. someone is gonna end up missing some fingertips and suing them.

but getting back to my original point. I thought it was funny mainly because I've seen that thread on here in the past where the guy's fingers got sucked into the turbo and then I see the comment about dead bidders down further in the auction...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Guys. LOL When the engine is at and idle the wheel turns so sloooooooooow that a wet noddle could stop it from spinning. No ones fingers are going to get chopped off. HAHAHA you dont need to hold th wheel on initial start up either. as soon as you crank that engine there is oil running through the system and the turbo is oiled before the engine fires. Its all bs that you read in the ebay page and anywhere else that says to hold the blades at start up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

a wet noodle huh??
well stick your finger in there!
ur finger is way stronger than a noodle,. so theres nothing to worry about...
put ur hand at the end of the tail pipe and block it off completely.... in a few moments you will feel the pressure of the gas
if a turbo doesnt spin with that flow pressure you just felt, then theres a problem... a turbo housing directs the flow right into the turbine blades and not around it, clearances are pretty close in there...
if the turbo has so much friction, then its trash

 

i've actually stuck my finger in a couple because of the whole "having to wait for oil" thing...i still have all my fingers

 

on the initials start up of my SC61 we held the wheel by hand. it didnt cause any problems. this is no uncommon either.

 

wasn't there a guy on HT that stuck his finger in once and lost it?

 

you could also pre-prime the feed lines, that might be fun.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by warrick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you could also pre-prime the feed lines, that might be fun.</TD></TR></TABLE>
its called, turn the engine over with the ECU unplugged until you get oil pressure, then start it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM 4G VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
its called, turn the engine over with the ECU unplugged until you get oil pressure, then start it</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ditto... That's the best way to prime the turbo, as well as the engine/valvetrain if the engine is a fresh built motor.

 

My old turbo spun fast as hell at idle, and I fired up my Stg5 60-1 and it also spins fast as hell, I have actually never seen a turbo that does not spin at idle even though i know they exist.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM 4G VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a wet noodle huh??
well stick your finger in there!
ur finger is way stronger than a noodle,. so theres nothing to worry about...
put ur hand at the end of the tail pipe and block it off completely.... in a few moments you will feel the pressure of the gas
if a turbo doesnt spin with that flow pressure you just felt, then theres a problem... a turbo housing directs the flow right into the turbine blades and not around it, clearances are pretty close in there...
if the turbo has so much friction, then its trash</TD></TR></TABLE>

That must be on one of the "no wastegate" setups

I know this concept is blowing your mind, but there are lots of setups with turbos that don't spin at idle. The pressure goes out the wastegate.

 

ok first off who would ANYONE be bonehead enough to stick their fingers there at all? use common sence. to put the turbo on the first time, you install everything, pull the fuel pump fuse, remove the spark plugs, and slightly loosen the oil pressur eline, turo the motor over till oil comes through the oil line. then tighten and go crank motor for 2-5 min. repalce everything and start car.

that's how you do it properly and safley.
Holding the shaft is the dumbest thing I haev EVER heard. and anyone who does it is just a total bonehea din my books and many other people's i know too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That must be on one of the "no wastegate" setups

I know this concept is blowing your mind, but there are lots of setups with turbos that don't spin at idle. The pressure goes out the wastegate.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then they have a shitty wastegate. the purpose of a wastegate is to bleed off exhaust gasses when yoru boosting. not when its at an idle. Only reason i could see a turbine blade not spinning would be to large of a turbo for application and to large or a shitty wastegate or VERY VERY poor manifold design.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok first off who would ANYONE be bonehead enough to stick their fingers there at all? use common sence. to put the turbo on the first time, you install everything, pull the fuel pump fuse, remove the spark plugs, and slightly loosen the oil pressur eline, turo the motor over till oil comes through the oil line. then tighten and go crank motor for 2-5 min. repalce everything and start car.

that's how you do it properly and safley.
Holding the shaft is the dumbest thing I haev EVER heard. and anyone who does it is just a total bonehea din my books and many other people's i know too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is just non sense and total overkill. the second you turn the key in your vehicle the oil is through the motor. ther eis absolutly no reason what so ever that you should crank your engine for 2-5 minutes. Cranking the engine over like that isnt going to do a damn thing but kill yoru starter and battery.

If you guys REALLY think that you need to have oil pressure at the turbo then take the plug wires off. crank it for like 5-10 seconds and put them back on and start it. but again this is really not nessesary. ive never done this one ANY of my turbos and there all fine. there assembled with assembly lube from the manufactures for initial start up. do you guys really believe that these companies that offer warranty products would just slap a bunch of metal parts together and not lube them?????

 

^^ what he said

As for motors not being able to spin it... maybe a full T04 or something, but even my stock d16 can spin a t3/t04b at 750rpm. Fast enough where I reeealy don't want to stick my finger in there.

 

well what we did was someone stuck a finger in the turbo to hold it back while someone else cranked the car...since the blade was being held back the turbo couldn't move.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ive never done this one ANY of my turbos and there all fine. there assembled with assembly lube from the manufactures for initial start up. do you guys really believe that these companies that offer warranty products would just slap a bunch of metal parts together and not lube them?????
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Garrett recommends 30 secs of priming on all their GT-series turbos. I had an instructions "tag" inside the box which states that.
Their pre-lube cannot withstand high temps, so they want to make sure that motor oil goes through the CHRA before actual heat builds up. You could skip that process if you want, but I wouldn't.

The best way to do this is:

1. Unplug all injector/ignition wires and/or ECU fuse
2. Crank the engine until the oil feed line receives oil. Usually takes a few seconds, but much longer on a freshly built engine.
3. Once there is oil coming out of the feedline, hook it to the turbo, but unhook the oil drain line.
4. Crank the engine until you see oil coming out of the turbo oil drain
5. Reassemble everything

Time is not the main factor because every engine is different, and oil sources are at different locations. It only took 10-15 secs of cranking to get oil out of the turbo drain for my Integra, but it took close to a minute to do the same with my turbocharged Camry.